I bought a set of used hooker headers and sidepipes that I want to install on my manual tranny 77. Have never worked with exhaust before. Is this a difficult installation? Any best practices on getting it done?

Thanks.

 

How much did they run and how long were you looking?

(Not that it matters right now with a nuked motor and needing wheels and tires anyhow.... )

One piece of advice - if you can match the ports on your heads and the headers - go COPPER header gaskets and some sort of locking bolts like the Stage 8's or those new center-screw spreading "finger" type things. Additionally, if the chrome isn't too pretty at the header end (if they are chromed) get a torch or get someone at a shop with one, heat the area inside the front and back pipes near the bolt and pinch that puppy in a little so you aren't fighting to put the bolt in.

If they aren't chromed - a coating shop or JET will coat them in and out for under $300. They'll look great and last forever.

 

Use a 6 point socket on the header bolts. You usually only get one chance on these things.

 

I just did hugger headers and side pipes on my '77 L48. I welded 1/2" nuts into the holes on each side of the frame. I had to make brackets from there as the pipes I bought were not corvette specific. I also had to make a pipe from my header to the side pipe. This was about 20" long. I have enough length to cut them later and install catalytic converters when my emmissions test notice comes.

 

Take off the rocker mouldings, but don't trim anything until you've got everything mounted (or at least KNOW where and how much to cut in order to mount them).

Get some jack stands or a lift. You'll need the car up off the ground at least 18". \

Header studs are a god-send if you don't have someone helping when you try to start those first two bolts. If not, Breslin and Stage * make fine locking bolts. I'd lean toward Breslin, myself...the Stage 8s are kindof a pain to install.

I don't have any tip on removal of the old suff, but I know it's a pain. Be careful you don't break off any of the bolts in the heads.

Test fit the sidetubes to the collectors BEFORE you mount everything. If they are tight when they are OFF the car, they will super tight ON the car. They should slip easily together. If not, clean up the OD of the collector with a bit of emery cloth and a file for burrs and dents. Same deal for the ID of the sidetubes...borrow a tubing expander if you need to.

JCL baffles are the best mufflers, but they are also the most expensive. If you are on a budget and still want decent flow, avoid the Hooker reverse-flow inserts.

Make sure you have all the mounting hardware...there should be four T-bolts, four nuts, four washers, and eight rubber insulator/grommets in order to mount the side tubes to the frame. Of course, you'll also need the bolts for the headers at the heads and two bolts with nuts on the welded-on clamp that secures the sidetube to the collector.

Now is a good time to check your motor mounts. If they are shot, replace them.



That's about all I can think of at the moment...

 

Thanks for the tips everyone. They are chrome and they have some pits from rock chips that have rusted a little. Have cleaned them up a little, but need to work more on it. I really can't afford to jet coat them right now.

As for the price, it was obscene. I worked with a gentleman for a few months because he lived in Michigan and I live in Texas. In the end, he sold them to me for $100 and I paid another $100 for shipping. All in all, not a bad deal.

Here is a couple pics of them when they were together before shipping (hope this works with pics). He had to have them heated up to take the headers off the pipes. It turned the seam a little blue, but I think they will still look great.

Any other tips out there?

Thanks again.

 

This article may help too.
http://www.corvettefever.com/howto/4680/

 

Great article... thanks! I'm debating whether or not I have it in me to do this. Replacing the front suspension and power steering was the first work I've ever done on a car, and it was tough. But it looks and works great now though!

 

Most of this stuff sounds tougher than it really is. Just read up ahead like your doing and take your time. It's usually the "simple" things that cause me the most grief.

 

Another Tip!!!

Take a piece of stainless lock wire and put it around the Tbolts just under the flange and leave a 6" tail. It really helps prevent the bolt from disappering into the darkness of the frame

And above all apply antisize to EVERYTHING

FWIW

 

Good comment on the 6-point socket for removal too - and the anti-seize (i.e. "your messy aluminum colored friend") If you do have some stuck header bolts - some of the worst the ArchAngel Henry Ford ever made...get a decent quality 6 point impact socket and, if you can find any, decent quality 6 sided narrow non-ratcheting box end wrench (as well as some penetrating oil and a light hammer and punch to work the silly things over first.)

Be prepared to take your grinder to both to get them small enough to get on the bolt. As long as you keep soaking the socket in oil while you girnd it, it works. (If you don't yet have a grinder, the cheapest decent thing going is a $15 hand angle grinder - typically 4-5" - from Harbor Frieght - they also have bench ones pretty cheap (and I can't understand expensive GRINDERS!). The angle grinder is real useful for powering a wire brush too or cutting the inevitable ruined botl somewhere - a cheap, versatile, durable tool.)

A muffler shop would probably only charge you around a $100 for this installation - if it was like Triple A in Mesquite. But they will not remove any cats or such, of course. I don't think this is an overly tough job though - especially once those header bolts are lose.

I forgot from when I first read this - are your current pipes one piece welded? If so, you'll need a sawzall to cut 'em off.

 

Good call on the anti-seize. I did that, but forgot to mention it...

 

Small block cars with ac require special brackets for mounting the compressor when you switch to headers. You can probably order the brackets through your local parts house if you need them.

Orville