Engine Rebuild ???
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 6
From: Long Island NY
Engine Rebuild ???
What's the ballpark figure on prepping a block (350). 30 over, magnaflux, hot tank, plugs, bearings, assembly the pistons... Also prepping the crank, maybe cut .10, magnaflux. Stock Head rebuild. I know what an engine kit will be from Sumitt. I'll build the motor, just need to know about how much the machine work will cost... Take it easy on me, I have 2 in college and 1 on the way to college...but I gotta have my fun too...
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
Likes: 3,987
From: Connecticut, USA
Doing the same here in CT now. Just had one block machined in June for $750- wash, bore & hone .020 over with plate, polish crank,instal cam brg's, recon rods & install ARP bolts, install pistons to rods, balance. No decking no fluxing- block only had 55k miles.
This week we're quoting a second block and the same work is now around $850- $900.
The best deal on engine kits with name brand parts is from www.Northernauto.com They beat Summit by a couple of hundred.
Gary
PS Summit used to give out a 10% discount this time of year but they no longer do that.
This week we're quoting a second block and the same work is now around $850- $900.
The best deal on engine kits with name brand parts is from www.Northernauto.com They beat Summit by a couple of hundred.
Gary
PS Summit used to give out a 10% discount this time of year but they no longer do that.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
I had a local machine shop give me a quote for just the basic block machining: hot tank, magna-flux, bore 0.030 over, turn the crank, re-install cam bearing......all for about $450. Now that doesn;t do anything for the rods, bearings, or re-assembly. Instead I found a motor builder that re-man'd complete blocks, cranks, and put in new pistons all for $495 with a core exchange or $695 without. Since I had a spare 350 small block that I planned to do this all with, guess which option I picked? I went with the motor builder.
I'd recommend checking if there is a motor builder that deals in re-man'd blocks like the dude I found here. They buy parts in bulk and get enourmous discounts which results in them passing the savings on to you. Since they do all their machining in house there is no extra markup on machining either. This allows you to store your original motor assuming it's #'s matching like mine was and sleep easy that if the mods you make blows up the motor it won't destroy the value of the car any more than it takes to rebuild the motor again.
I'd recommend checking if there is a motor builder that deals in re-man'd blocks like the dude I found here. They buy parts in bulk and get enourmous discounts which results in them passing the savings on to you. Since they do all their machining in house there is no extra markup on machining either. This allows you to store your original motor assuming it's #'s matching like mine was and sleep easy that if the mods you make blows up the motor it won't destroy the value of the car any more than it takes to rebuild the motor again.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,330
Likes: 6
From: Long Island NY
The ONLY reason I'm rebuilding my block, it that it's the original L-82. If it wasn't, I would go with a new GM long block. The machinist MUST NOT WIPE OUT THE NUMBERS...can I sue him if he did it and I told not to??? Or should I say is he liable???
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,581
Likes: 28
From: Spring, Texas
Originally Posted by gtr1999
The best deal on engine kits with name brand parts is from www.Northernauto.com They beat Summit by a couple of hundred.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Originally Posted by steves_77vette
... They buy parts in bulk and get enourmous discounts which results in them passing the savings on to you. Since they do all their machining in house there is no extra markup on machining either....
I closed my machine shop in 1996 and since then have been having another shop bore my blocks... he marks up the parts even though he knows I used to own/operate my own machine shop... no deals even for me... so I buy from Summit etc. instead. He does good work and does exactly what I ask him to do... so I remain his customer. But I pass on his parts.
So.... do your homework before you sign on the dotted line.
FYI
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 896
Likes: 0
From: Lafayette, Indiana
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by mvftw
What's the ballpark figure on prepping a block (350). 30 over, magnaflux, hot tank, plugs, bearings, assembly the pistons... Also prepping the crank, maybe cut .10, magnaflux. Stock Head rebuild.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: PA
Keep in mind that unless you are worn pretty good you don't have to cut the crank or bore the block. Take your measurements before going through the trouble, I've built quite a few 350's and didn't have to bore them or cut the crank.
