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Half shaft u joints??

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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 08:30 PM
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Default Half shaft u joints??

OK guys, I just need to change the u-joints in the halfshafts, I've never worked on a vette in my life, other cars?? plenty!! Do I need to take off the trailing arms or anything else, or do I just unbolt the 4 bolts on the back of the trailing arm to get these things out. Also, I heard about some special tool needed?? HELP!!!
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 08:37 PM
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Simply undo both ends of the half shaft and pry it out from between the differential and the trailing arm/bearing carrier assembly. Reverse to reassemble.

There is no need to remove the trailing arm.

BigBlockk

Later.....

Last edited by BigBlockk; Aug 2, 2005 at 08:51 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 08:47 PM
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It is much easier if you undo the strut rods. This will allow the trailing arm to be pushed out and the halfshaft will come out easier. No need to remove the trailing arm though.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 08:58 PM
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The only special tool I can think of is a plate that the flange bolts to when pressing the u-joints in and out. It prevents the flange from warping.
http://www.micro-controls.com/cartools-rplate.html
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
It is much easier if you undo the strut rods. This will allow the trailing arm to be pushed out and the halfshaft will come out easier. No need to remove the trailing arm though.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 09:46 PM
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As stated you must bolt the flange to a solid piece before removing. These are not like regular driveshaft joints. Some have used those ujoint tools or a vise but these suckers need to be either burnt out or pressed out in a press. The best way is to burn them. Do a search here and you'll find a ton of info on doing them. Between rear bearings, steering boxes, and u-joints they must be the most talked about subjects.
good luck
Gary
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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All you need is to loosen the inner strut rod bolt and turn the cam. This pushes the spindle out giving more room.

I was warned about the outer flange. I cut my U-joints with an angle grinder and pushed them out in a vice. Load was directon only one pin at a time.

Also with the half shaft out of the way you've done the preliminary of checking the spindle end play. Might as well check it.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 10:12 PM
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By the way, I know a lot of folks replace their own u-joints on the shafts, but I took mine (it's been a few years) to a drive shaft specialist in town who took out the old ones and pressed in new ones very inexpensively. It left me more time to replace the shafts without cussing at u-joints, which I've done a bit of in my time.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by surfshark
By the way, I know a lot of folks replace their own u-joints on the shafts, but I took mine (it's been a few years) to a drive shaft specialist in town who took out the old ones and pressed in new ones very inexpensively. It left me more time to replace the shafts without cussing at u-joints, which I've done a bit of in my time.
Well worth the money to let the people that make a living doing this do it. They can sand blast the shaft and paint it and then put in heavy duty joints. Another options is to send them to Van Steel. I beleive about $65 per side for cleaning, new epoxy paint and top quality joints. Takes about a week to and from.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 11:42 PM
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No need to remove or loosen the strut rods..The car should be on jackstands to do this job easiest. Once in the air and the halfshafts are free just jack the trailing arm up and you will have enough room to get the halfshaft out.. By doing it this way you
1. Save time
2. Avoid having to have the rearend aligned.

As for sending the halfshafts out yes you can but it is easy to do them your self if you have a large vise. The cost of shipping alone may justify your purchasing a 100 dollar vise. You will definately use it over time if you are doing your own work on your car. Just be sure to get you a plate to attach to the spindle yoke so that you don't bend the ears...

Dave..
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 09:11 AM
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I've never sent anything for anyone to do, I do all my own machining, engine building, pressing, grinding, boring ect. The only thing I see are 4 bolts on the back of the trailing arm, it just pulls out of the diff like a normal driveshaft???? how many total bolts??
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 09:37 AM
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You have 8 bolts total & 4 u-bolts unless you have a BB or BB side yokes. If you have BB side yokes than you have 16 bolts.
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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The U-bolts are lots of fun. I rotate each nut to two o'clock and take a racheting box wrench to it. There's not much room to wrench so it takes a while.
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 07:35 PM
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I'd heartly recommend going back with Spicer u-joints,...w/o grease fittings.
jim
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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I'd heartly recommend going back with Spicer u-joints,...w/o grease fittings.
jim

oh yes, the half shaft is probably a Spicer and will have the correct Spicer U joint number stamped on it...probably towards one of the ends.
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Old Aug 3, 2005 | 09:03 PM
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Spicer # 5-799
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 04:56 PM
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They can be a real nut buster. I was happily banging away once trying to get the u-joint out of the flange and before I knew it, the flange was bent - and they ain't cheep. Over the winter, I'd gladly pay the difference and have Van Steel do it. I have better things to curse at.
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 07:30 PM
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If anyone is interested, I have 18 Spicer U-joints for sale. They have grease zerks. The serviceable style would be my preference for lower HP applications. I am going to go to solid U-joints so I don't need these taking up my shop space.
$16 Each.... Just PM me if you are interested.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 09:09 PM
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So those handy universal joint press/removal tools will not work on the flange end without bending the flanges?
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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They will usually bend. I use an old flange bolted back to back togeather with 4 bolts. Then I press the old joints out. No bends!
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