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Rod and main bearings, need tips

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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 11:13 PM
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From: Hattiesburg MS
Default Rod and main bearings, need tips

Well, after installing the new vortec heads and air gap intake the car was much faster until it started knocking. I pulled the pan and the rod caps and found that # 5 rod bearing was pretty much melted. Went today and bought new bearings, rods and mains. My plan is to replace the bearings and be able to run the car for another 4 - 6 months until I can afford the stroker parts to build the engine with. Going to roll the old mains out and roll new ones in. This is my first chevy and was wondering if there are any special tips anyone could give me. Chiltons says that there is a thrust bearing (# 5) that needs to be aligned but the only one that has any thrust surfaces on it is the rear main. Book shows that it is the third main cap from the front. I am confussed because it doesn't have any side thrust surfaces on it. Can someone give me a pointer on this? Any feedback would be welcome.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 11:20 PM
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Before you go throwing bearings back into the engine I would try and figure out why you melted down a bearing. There must be a tollerance that is not correct or gone out of spec. You might be back into the same situation a couple of months down the road and if you plan to use your block with the new stroker parts, you might want to reconsider. If you let another bearing go you could toss the rod through the pan or block and then your going to be in deep do do.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 11:22 PM
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Search the engine mods forum on this. I remember a post there last year on replacing the rods and mains with the engine in the car. Good luck!

Brett
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by After Shark
Before you go throwing bearings back into the engine I would try and figure out why you melted down a bearing. There must be a tollerance that is not correct or gone out of spec. You might be back into the same situation a couple of months down the road and if you plan to use your block with the new stroker parts, you might want to reconsider. If you let another bearing go you could toss the rod through the pan or block and then your going to be in deep do do.
Well, I put a new oil pump on a few months ago because I was replacing the rear main seal. When I pulled the pan I noticed that the rods had the color of being ran without oil at some point. This is a somewhat familiar sight because I work for Kohler Engines and have seen this reddish brown burnt look when an oil pump fails in final test. Anyway, I think this started the problem and then I made it worse. When I installed the new Edelbrock carb I reconnected everything just as it was including running both PCV valves directly into the carb. After this, I had oil pressure problems at idle due to higher vac with the new carb. I have since found out that this is a big no no and only run one PCV valve into the carb with a breather on the other side. Otherwise, such a vac is produced inside the engine that oil doesn't flow correctly. All of this adding up started filling the oil hole on the crank journal with bearing material and preventing oil from getting to the rod. The rest is history, so to speak. This is a two bolt block so if I had to scrap it and go with a four bolt I won't cry too much All other rod bearings showed a great deal of wear but none were distroyed like this one. Does my theroy sound reasonable to you or am I way off?
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