Quadrajet choke question
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 3
From: Burlington WI
Quadrajet choke question
I am getting ready to install my new 350/290 crate and was looking at my carb and Edelbrock Performer 2101 manifold.
Is there any reason you cant run a tube from the manifold to the choke so it still operates as a hot air choke?
Is there any reason you cant run a tube from the manifold to the choke so it still operates as a hot air choke?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,046
Likes: 675
From: FL
Don't do it.
Let me see if I can explain this without pictures. On the stock hot air choke, there is a line from an outlet on the back of the carb at the top to the heat stove. The "heat stove" is a length of steel tube that goes inside the exhaust crossover. There is then a tube from the "heat stove" to the fitting on the choke. The choke itself has an internal opening into the carb so it is under vacuum. Basically, that controlled leak sucks air through the "heat stove", heating it and that then heats the choke.
Edit: Found a pic.
Now, if you commect the choke directly to the exhaust crossover, you will be introducing very hot exhaust gas into the choke. I expect you will have serious tuning problems and you may damage the choke.
The easy solution is an electric choke retrofit. Costs about $30. Install it and hook the wire up to a power source that is only energized when the car is running. Then just plug the fitting.
I used Edelbrock part 1932. Got it from my local NAPA about $30 but Summit or Jegs is probably easier.
Here is a page with some info:
http://www.ajgeneral.com/edelbrock_q_jet_accessories
Let me see if I can explain this without pictures. On the stock hot air choke, there is a line from an outlet on the back of the carb at the top to the heat stove. The "heat stove" is a length of steel tube that goes inside the exhaust crossover. There is then a tube from the "heat stove" to the fitting on the choke. The choke itself has an internal opening into the carb so it is under vacuum. Basically, that controlled leak sucks air through the "heat stove", heating it and that then heats the choke.
Edit: Found a pic.
Now, if you commect the choke directly to the exhaust crossover, you will be introducing very hot exhaust gas into the choke. I expect you will have serious tuning problems and you may damage the choke.
The easy solution is an electric choke retrofit. Costs about $30. Install it and hook the wire up to a power source that is only energized when the car is running. Then just plug the fitting.
I used Edelbrock part 1932. Got it from my local NAPA about $30 but Summit or Jegs is probably easier.
Here is a page with some info:
http://www.ajgeneral.com/edelbrock_q_jet_accessories
Last edited by SteveG75; Aug 7, 2005 at 10:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 3
From: Burlington WI
Thanks!!
There were indeed what appeared to be two lines on the stock manifold.
But I see from your illustration that it is actually a continuous line that gets heated. Essentially a heat exchanger.
Thanks for your input.
Chris B
But I see from your illustration that it is actually a continuous line that gets heated. Essentially a heat exchanger.
Thanks for your input.
Chris B
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,046
Likes: 675
From: FL
Chris,
If your heads have an exhaust heat crossover and you haven't blocked it, you can either use the stock tubes or Edelbrock 1930. If you want to block the exhaust crossover or have heads without it (my RPM's don't have one), then I suggest the electric choke #1932.
Good luck,
Steve
If your heads have an exhaust heat crossover and you haven't blocked it, you can either use the stock tubes or Edelbrock 1930. If you want to block the exhaust crossover or have heads without it (my RPM's don't have one), then I suggest the electric choke #1932.
Good luck,
Steve
Drifting
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,542
Likes: 43
From: Plano TX
Chris,
The aluminum piece bolted to your intake may not be drilled through to the cross over. I have a similar one on an intake and it's used to mount a divorced choke (thermal spring sits on the intake not in the round housing on the card). If its the same as mine the hole near the valve cover is the mounting hole which is threaded and the inner one is just a recess to locate the choke since it has a key for alignment that sits in the recess.
Even if yours does have the hole all the way through plug at and get an electric choke froma 1980 L82 and mount in your choke housing.
Dave
The aluminum piece bolted to your intake may not be drilled through to the cross over. I have a similar one on an intake and it's used to mount a divorced choke (thermal spring sits on the intake not in the round housing on the card). If its the same as mine the hole near the valve cover is the mounting hole which is threaded and the inner one is just a recess to locate the choke since it has a key for alignment that sits in the recess.
Even if yours does have the hole all the way through plug at and get an electric choke froma 1980 L82 and mount in your choke housing.
Dave
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 3
From: Burlington WI
Thanks guys!!
I am pulling the original setup off of the old manifold and putting it on the edelbrock.
I about fell over when I saw that the reproduction #1930 from Edelbrock was 72 bucks, if they are available. They are no longer in production.
Thanks again for all your input. It's a good day, I learned something new.
Corvette Forum ROCKS!!
Chris B
I about fell over when I saw that the reproduction #1930 from Edelbrock was 72 bucks, if they are available. They are no longer in production.
Thanks again for all your input. It's a good day, I learned something new.
Corvette Forum ROCKS!!
Chris B
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Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,046
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From: FL
Originally Posted by steves_77vette
So, where would a good place be to get the power to the thing? And also, what would be used to plug the air-horn vaccuum port?
To cap the plug, I just got an assortment of vacuum caps (rubber covers) from Autozone for about $1.29. I used various sizes to cap all the ports I don't use any more.
