rear end noise
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
From: Longview Texas
rear end noise
hi all ..... new noise in the vetter
it is intermittent ..... usually after a long drive, when first stopping there is a grinding noise from the drivers side rear ....
also, when going into drive from reverse (auto) there is a clunk sound from same area
my thought is u joint, but this thing has 5 or six of them
here are some pics of the UJoint in ??
the red is rust looking and only on one side of the half shaft thing
thanks in advance for all the input
it is intermittent ..... usually after a long drive, when first stopping there is a grinding noise from the drivers side rear ....
also, when going into drive from reverse (auto) there is a clunk sound from same area
my thought is u joint, but this thing has 5 or six of them
here are some pics of the UJoint in ??
the red is rust looking and only on one side of the half shaft thing
thanks in advance for all the input
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
From: Longview Texas
updatge
ok ..... pulled half-shafts and found one horrible u-joint ..... decided that Big G's idea of replacing all four was a good one .... 
have new joints .... replaced one, no prob ..... next one (the one that was bad) came out ok and all seemed normal until reassembly ..... this is on the ujoint flange to the wheel ... when back in place, the clips will not go all the way into retaining slot (one will, the other won't) and when both clips are mostly in, the u-joint is too tight and will not swivel freely ..... I used a vise and a socket to tap out old joints and the vise to press back in. Did i screw the pooch here, or could that have been the initial cause of the failure of the u-joint? I am taking the shafts and other joints to a local driveshaft shop tomorrow (they have helped me in the past), so do I need another flange or a better mechanic?
my thought was this could be a one day job, but of course not to be ... while I was there I replaced the rear shocks ..... (that really needed to be done as I fully compressed the old shocks about 2 hours ago and they have yet to expand
) prolly do the front next weekend
all advice appreciated as always
have new joints .... replaced one, no prob ..... next one (the one that was bad) came out ok and all seemed normal until reassembly ..... this is on the ujoint flange to the wheel ... when back in place, the clips will not go all the way into retaining slot (one will, the other won't) and when both clips are mostly in, the u-joint is too tight and will not swivel freely ..... I used a vise and a socket to tap out old joints and the vise to press back in. Did i screw the pooch here, or could that have been the initial cause of the failure of the u-joint? I am taking the shafts and other joints to a local driveshaft shop tomorrow (they have helped me in the past), so do I need another flange or a better mechanic?
my thought was this could be a one day job, but of course not to be ... while I was there I replaced the rear shocks ..... (that really needed to be done as I fully compressed the old shocks about 2 hours ago and they have yet to expand
) prolly do the front next weekendall advice appreciated as always
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
I understand its easy to compress the spindle flange. The one away from the differential. I cut mine in half with a grinder but your supposed to use a "special" tool to buttress this one when taking it apart. I guess it compresses the ears.
Whether its your problem??
You should also check the spindle runout now that the half shafts are out. Just need a dial indicator. If you don't have a harbour freight locally there are other mail order cheap sources.
I have my doubts on the greased U-joints. I wonder if grease comes from all 4 points of the U-joint when greased. If it doesn't then they aren't being lubed.
Anyone with them know?
Whether its your problem??
You should also check the spindle runout now that the half shafts are out. Just need a dial indicator. If you don't have a harbour freight locally there are other mail order cheap sources.
I have my doubts on the greased U-joints. I wonder if grease comes from all 4 points of the U-joint when greased. If it doesn't then they aren't being lubed.
Anyone with them know?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Techno, I grease them till grease comes out all 4 caps.
Wife'sVette, You may have a needle sideways in one of the bearing cups...Let the driveshaft shop handle the joints, they will be able to straighten the flange if necessary..G/L
Wife'sVette, You may have a needle sideways in one of the bearing cups...Let the driveshaft shop handle the joints, they will be able to straighten the flange if necessary..G/L
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
From: Longview Texas
Originally Posted by Techno
You should also check the spindle runout now that the half shafts are out. Just need a dial indicator. If you don't have a harbour freight locally there are other mail order cheap sources.
?
?
what is the runout and how to check??
yes, harbour freight is in town
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
Put the dial indicator where the half shaft went, on the spindle.
Then pull it in and out.
.001-.008" I believe although the closer to zero is best.
A few have websites where they've done this so hopefully they'll post a picture. Worth a thousand
big_G. thanks been wondering about that. I didn't get them mostly because they don't fit my lifestyle.
I probably wouldn't grease them routinely enough.
Then pull it in and out.
.001-.008" I believe although the closer to zero is best.
A few have websites where they've done this so hopefully they'll post a picture. Worth a thousand
big_G. thanks been wondering about that. I didn't get them mostly because they don't fit my lifestyle.
I probably wouldn't grease them routinely enough.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 914
Likes: 0
From: Longview Texas
well $150 later the u-joints are in and now time for dial indicator purchase 
went with spicer u's and non-greasing type .... take the others back to the wal-mart of auto parts later (O'Reilly's)
just the 2 not installed, don't want some other slub getting ripped on my account
aren't c-3's fun
went with spicer u's and non-greasing type .... take the others back to the wal-mart of auto parts later (O'Reilly's)
just the 2 not installed, don't want some other slub getting ripped on my account
aren't c-3's fun