Newbie with a few questions
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
New England Events Coordinator
Noise
I recently replaced the spidle/bearing assembly on the drivers side (blew the bearing). After this work the mechanic thought the passenger side was also in need of replacement. Turns out the new noise that is heard on a hard left turn is the 1/2 shaft pushing the yoke into the diff and the end of the yoke grinding internally. 
Combination of new TA bushing and replacing the yokes/retaining clips, big job! There should be only very minimal 12-6 play.
Combination of new TA bushing and replacing the yokes/retaining clips, big job! There should be only very minimal 12-6 play.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 218
Likes: 6
From: SF North Bay California
Been there, done that...
Alright, this rear end problem might seem VERY overwhelming right now...and I know exactly how you feel.
When I put my 78 Silver Anni. on a lift, the left side of the suspension would hang lower than the right and it was obvious the yoke was pulling farther out of the differential than the passenger side. This problem first was noticed back in '94.
Needless to say, 3 trailing arms, 4 trips to the frame shop, 5 rear wheel alignments and I still could not get the car to sit correctly in the rear. The driver's side rear tire always seemed to have too much camber (top of tire leaning inward toward car while bottom was further away).
Another issue was a noisy diff (binding / grabbing sensation) at low speed turns.
To make a long story short, I kept trying to cure the frame and/or alignment problems before I went into rebuilding the differential. Mistake!!!
Believe it or not, all my trouble stemmed from the Rear Strut Rod Bushings on the left side. After having many mechanics look at the problems and attempt to solve them, I finally pulled apart the rear end myself. To my amazement, I could barely seperate the rear strut rods because the bushings were so locked up on the camber adjusters.
After speaking to a rear end specialty shop (who eventually rebuilt the internals of my diff) they told me the frozen bushings were what was causing all of my problems.
I might not explain this well, but here goes...
It seems that the frozen bushing causes undue pressure on the yoke, causing it to push into the diff harder that it is supposed to (because it is carrying more weight than it should). This causes the tips to wear and eventually the retaining clip breaks. This causes the yoke to "pull out" further than it should when on a lift. This also caused the bent trailing arms due to the parts not being able to move back there correctly.
...needless to say a couple of bushings that needed to be replaced a LONG time ago cost me a TON of cash in the long run.
Localbulldog, make sure when you have the rear diff out and the struts disconnected that you take a good hard look at your bushings...and even be on the safe side and just replace all the rubber back there!
-Fed
When I put my 78 Silver Anni. on a lift, the left side of the suspension would hang lower than the right and it was obvious the yoke was pulling farther out of the differential than the passenger side. This problem first was noticed back in '94.
Needless to say, 3 trailing arms, 4 trips to the frame shop, 5 rear wheel alignments and I still could not get the car to sit correctly in the rear. The driver's side rear tire always seemed to have too much camber (top of tire leaning inward toward car while bottom was further away).
Another issue was a noisy diff (binding / grabbing sensation) at low speed turns.
To make a long story short, I kept trying to cure the frame and/or alignment problems before I went into rebuilding the differential. Mistake!!!
Believe it or not, all my trouble stemmed from the Rear Strut Rod Bushings on the left side. After having many mechanics look at the problems and attempt to solve them, I finally pulled apart the rear end myself. To my amazement, I could barely seperate the rear strut rods because the bushings were so locked up on the camber adjusters.
After speaking to a rear end specialty shop (who eventually rebuilt the internals of my diff) they told me the frozen bushings were what was causing all of my problems.
I might not explain this well, but here goes...
It seems that the frozen bushing causes undue pressure on the yoke, causing it to push into the diff harder that it is supposed to (because it is carrying more weight than it should). This causes the tips to wear and eventually the retaining clip breaks. This causes the yoke to "pull out" further than it should when on a lift. This also caused the bent trailing arms due to the parts not being able to move back there correctly.
...needless to say a couple of bushings that needed to be replaced a LONG time ago cost me a TON of cash in the long run.
Localbulldog, make sure when you have the rear diff out and the struts disconnected that you take a good hard look at your bushings...and even be on the safe side and just replace all the rubber back there!
-Fed
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
The car is fixed !! The shop finished today and it drives great. I could not be more pleased with the shop I would recommend them to anyone in the area that wants a no BS mechanic.
William Phillips Automotive LLC
Hampstead, NH
603.329.6695
William Phillips Automotive LLC
Hampstead, NH
603.329.6695
