Time to replace control arm bushings???
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Time to replace control arm bushings???
I just got my Steeroids kit. I've removed my old steering components, but now I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace all the control arm bushings while the car is apart, and since I've got to get an alignment anyway.
Best that I can tell, they look a little worn. It looks like a simple job. What specialty tools are needed? A spring compressor for sure.
Are auto parts store bushings good enough? Should I put the shims back afterwards, or just let the alignment shop figure it out?
Thanks for any input...
Best that I can tell, they look a little worn. It looks like a simple job. What specialty tools are needed? A spring compressor for sure.
Are auto parts store bushings good enough? Should I put the shims back afterwards, or just let the alignment shop figure it out?
Thanks for any input...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
If you decide to do the work...
There are many ways to skin a cat, and many ways to remove/replace the bushings... no shortage of preferred methodology here on this forum... but...
The A-Frames can be easily bent if you (or a shop) do a sloppy job.
The A-Frames should be supported between the ears when assembling to avoid bending the ears. The cross shaft should rotate freely after you're done. Otherwise you bent the A-Frames.
The original tool for the job was made by Kent-Moore, but you can make your own tool, or rig something up. Objective is to avoid bending the ears.
The tool is shown in the service manual.
I have the manual, and the original tool.
I have had to toss customers A-Frames in the trash because they were so chewed up & bent by previous mechanics (aka Bubba) that they were not serviceable. Pay yer money, take yer chances.
There are many ways to skin a cat, and many ways to remove/replace the bushings... no shortage of preferred methodology here on this forum... but...
The A-Frames can be easily bent if you (or a shop) do a sloppy job.
The A-Frames should be supported between the ears when assembling to avoid bending the ears. The cross shaft should rotate freely after you're done. Otherwise you bent the A-Frames.
The original tool for the job was made by Kent-Moore, but you can make your own tool, or rig something up. Objective is to avoid bending the ears.
The tool is shown in the service manual.
I have the manual, and the original tool.
I have had to toss customers A-Frames in the trash because they were so chewed up & bent by previous mechanics (aka Bubba) that they were not serviceable. Pay yer money, take yer chances.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
They get easier to do ... about the third set you remove/install.
I no longer use a press ... the job can be done with
hand tools, air hammer (chisel), propane torch, and practice.
I have fabricated some supports (between the ears) from
1 1/2" iron pipe - sliced down the middle and ground to fit tight.
Look for Lars' front end rebuild paper ... good techniques.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/lars.asp
If you have time, send 'em to a reputable rebuilder ... Van Steel, Bairs, etc.
If you use new aftermarket front springs - no compressor is required.
They come out easily - but getting the stock springs back in can be a
battle without a compressor.
I no longer use a press ... the job can be done with
hand tools, air hammer (chisel), propane torch, and practice.
I have fabricated some supports (between the ears) from
1 1/2" iron pipe - sliced down the middle and ground to fit tight.
Look for Lars' front end rebuild paper ... good techniques.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/lars.asp
If you have time, send 'em to a reputable rebuilder ... Van Steel, Bairs, etc.
If you use new aftermarket front springs - no compressor is required.
They come out easily - but getting the stock springs back in can be a
battle without a compressor.
Last edited by NHvette; Aug 26, 2005 at 02:05 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
I'm doing my suspension during the clean up of my engine compartment...yeah, while the compartment is empty do the control arms. The bushings are a bit tricky, but JCWhitney has a nice tool for the job:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
The hard part is getting those rivets out! I'm having to cut the ball joints off because after cutting the head off of the rivet and trying to tap it out just isn't working...they are in there nice and solid. I picked up a diamond cut-off disk and arbor conversion for my drill which is working great...takes awhile to cut it off though.
You can also get a spring compressor from JCWhitney.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
The hard part is getting those rivets out! I'm having to cut the ball joints off because after cutting the head off of the rivet and trying to tap it out just isn't working...they are in there nice and solid. I picked up a diamond cut-off disk and arbor conversion for my drill which is working great...takes awhile to cut it off though.
You can also get a spring compressor from JCWhitney.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I like the poly bushings and do not use a press to install them. I use a flapper wheel and clean the bores really well, grease the metal sleeve and using mild pressure push them in basically by hand. Rubber requires a press.
Remember the bushings are not to be shock absorbers. They are to be bushings that allow the A arms to move up and down. If the bushing assembly is so tight the bolts can only be tightened when the car is on the ground sitting level that means the bushings are being distorted and every time the car goes over a bump the bushings are being twisted.
I feel when installed and the cross shaft is clamped in the vise the A arm should be free to move. I torque the end bolts in the vise and make sure the arm still moves freely up and down.
Rubber is completely different / installation/ tightening and feel.
Go poly.
Remember the bushings are not to be shock absorbers. They are to be bushings that allow the A arms to move up and down. If the bushing assembly is so tight the bolts can only be tightened when the car is on the ground sitting level that means the bushings are being distorted and every time the car goes over a bump the bushings are being twisted.
I feel when installed and the cross shaft is clamped in the vise the A arm should be free to move. I torque the end bolts in the vise and make sure the arm still moves freely up and down.
Rubber is completely different / installation/ tightening and feel.
Go poly.
Racer
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: Jackson, MS USA
It has been a couple of years since I did mine. However, you do not need a press, as mentioned above. There is a good article on this subject in the tech section of the forum. You can download the article, and put it right there beside you for the work. Like I said, it has been a few years since I did this, but as I remember I took an air chisel, and just worked around the lip of the old bushing until I could get a good "bite" with the chisel, then the bushing came out easily. The torch method works, but it is dirty, and smelly. I would recommend using the air chisel. On the install, i think I just cleaned the bore, pushed the bushing as far in as I could be hand, and then re-inserted the crossbar. With the cross bar in place, I replaced the end-caps, and used a longer bolt to "draw" the bushing into place. Anyhow, that is what I remember, but could be wrong.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 988
Likes: 1
From: Dyersburg TN
Originally Posted by Rockn-Roll
I'm doing my suspension during the clean up of my engine compartment...yeah, while the compartment is empty do the control arms. The bushings are a bit tricky, but JCWhitney has a nice tool for the job:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
The hard part is getting those rivets out! I'm having to cut the ball joints off because after cutting the head off of the rivet and trying to tap it out just isn't working...they are in there nice and solid. I picked up a diamond cut-off disk and arbor conversion for my drill which is working great...takes awhile to cut it off though.
.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
The hard part is getting those rivets out! I'm having to cut the ball joints off because after cutting the head off of the rivet and trying to tap it out just isn't working...they are in there nice and solid. I picked up a diamond cut-off disk and arbor conversion for my drill which is working great...takes awhile to cut it off though.
.
it takes BFH , and a big swing
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Todbo
it takes BFH , and a big swingCorvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
My upper ball joints came out easily after grinding off the rivet heads. Make sure you take out the bolts for the lower joints. Sometimes there is so much crud down there that it's hard to tell that the ball joints are held in by bolts.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Originally Posted by Blair Winch Project
My upper ball joints came out easily after grinding off the rivet heads. Make sure you take out the bolts for the lower joints. Sometimes there is so much crud down there that it's hard to tell that the ball joints are held in by bolts.
Rick B.
Rick B.
