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I own a 1968 427 vette that I purchased for restoration. When I bought the vehicle I was fully aware that it needed a new frame. My question is how do I know how many spacers and/or shims do I need to properly set the body on the new frame?
You don't...A different frame=different shims..start with the amount the old frame used for #2 + #3 body mounts on both sides. Take away or add shims so that when dropping the body down, it sets evenly on the 4 mounts. You can feel thru the mount holes to see if they are loose. When you are happy with the fit, you can install #1 and #4 on both sides (without picking up the body). I like a slight preload on #1 and #4. #1 and #4 will set the fender and rear door to quarter panel gaps....G/L
thanks again, don't want to bug you but a couple more question. The front nose clip is not attached to the car, does that have to be on aswell for body adjustment? The car was bought with an aftermarket nose on it and it was horrible looking so I removed it. It did not seem to fit right on it at all. With the body in the air exposing the frame how is the nose connected to the body (firewall)?
You can shim the body without the nose on. Don't bond on the nose until you are ready to install the front cross-member and radiator core support. You will adjust the front cross-member/core support assembly to set the front end alignment to the door front edge....This step requires much measuring and patience. Install the hood to set the gap at the front surround to hood clearance.
Thanks, Is the front crossmember the piece that has the head light assembly attached to it. Not sure. Most of the front end is from a later year C3. I don't have original bracketry, but will be ordering it soon.
You don't...A different frame=different shims..start with the amount the old frame used for #2 + #3 body mounts on both sides. Take away or add shims so that when dropping the body down, it sets evenly on the 4 mounts. You can feel thru the mount holes to see if they are loose. When you are happy with the fit, you can install #1 and #4 on both sides (without picking up the body). I like a slight preload on #1 and #4. #1 and #4 will set the fender and rear door to quarter panel gaps....G/L
I really enjoyed reading this. I understand the factory had a special tool to align things. This is the first time someone has described how to do the alignment on a one-off situation. Thanks!!!!
The cross-member supports the rad. support, which mounts to the fender-wells. The fender-wells support the front end. Also, the factory has body alignment holes in the bird cage (under the sill plates), usually a red plug is covering it. The frame rail has a corrosponding hole clear thru the top and bottom. Use a long (10 inch) bolt,1/2 inch diameter, 1 on each side, to align the frame to body perfectly.