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Whenever I drive more than an hour or so and then turn the car off, it won't restart. Turn the key and the starter does nothing (everything else works). Leave it sitting for a while (enough to cool the engine) and it starts up again. We found out if we cool it faster by pouring water over the heat shield on the starter, it will start up. We only now have this problem because we took the car to Corvettes at Carlisle. Before then, all I ever did was short trips of no more than 30mins.
Do I need a new starter or a different heat shield? The wires run over the heat shield and down to the terminals, but they look OK.
It is your solenoid. When the solenoid gets hot the resistance goes up. With increased resistance the solenoid won't pull in closing the contacts to spin the starter.
A simple soluton that alot of us have gone to is a FORD remote solenoid, very cheap and short out the stock solenoid wire.
BUT...if the solenoid is engaging (you hear the starter slowly turning the engine), the armature windings are shot (higher resistance than normal).I suggest a gear reduction starter...they dont seem to be sensitive to heat soak like the old style GM starters...
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
thats why i don't like the idea of a heat shield for the starter ...i think all it does is keep the heat contained longer in the starter and after it all gets hot it just keeps reflecting the heat back to the starter....i used a hi torque reduction starter that is much lighter and smaller and it gives me more clearance around the headers...just out of curiosity do you have the front air spoiler under the valance panel?....not the big one just the small that directs air into the radiator?
BUT...if the solenoid is engaging (you hear the starter slowly turning the engine), the armature windings are shot (higher resistance than normal).I suggest a gear reduction starter...they dont seem to be sensitive to heat soak like the old style GM starters...
No, the started doesn't do anything, just like when you have a dead battery.
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
thats why i don't like the idea of a heat shield for the starter ...i think all it does is keep the heat contained longer in the starter and after it all gets hot it just keeps reflecting the heat back to the starter....i used a hi torque reduction starter that is much lighter and smaller and it gives me more clearance around the headers...just out of curiosity do you have the front air spoiler under the valance panel?....not the big one just the small that directs air into the radiator?
I have the small front spoiler, though it is warped a little.
Originally Posted by rihwoods
Solenoid...change spring....had same issue many years ago...been fine since...
Will that solve the problem "norvalwilhelm" mentions? How do I change the spring?
BTW, I did adjust the timing based on Lars' directions the night before we left for Carlisle.
A quick way to solve the heat soaked starter problem is to get a remote solenoid, also known as the F*rd type. Summit sells a kit for $21. When I had my stock starter I had this problem and the remote solenoid solved it.
A quick way to solve the heat soaked starter problem is to get a remote solenoid, also known as the F*rd type. Summit sells a kit for $21. When I had my stock starter I had this problem and the remote solenoid solved it.
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY "70", I BOUGHT A HEAVY-DUTY SOLENOID AT AUTOZONE FOR $6-7. I ALSO WRAPED THE STARTER AND SOLENOID WITH "THERMO-TEC" (ALUMIZED HEAT BARRIER). I HAD NO MORE PROBLEMS THE LAST TWO YEARS.
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY "70", I BOUGHT A HEAVY-DUTY SOLENOID AT AUTOZONE FOR $6-7. I ALSO WRAPED THE STARTER AND SOLENOID WITH "THERMO-TEC" (ALUMIZED HEAT BARRIER). I HAD NO MORE PROBLEMS THE LAST TWO YEARS.
I vote gear reduction starter from a C4 or 90s truck-that's what I have and I like it very much.
Not to hijack the thread, but how exactly does the remote solenoid solve the problem? I have always wondered this. I mean you are still using the stock solenoid to engage the drive and it still has to disengage. Don't you have 2 solenoids to deal with then? Maybe it is so simple I just can't see it. I know it must work because many people use it that seem know what they are doing. Thanks for any clarification.
I vote gear reduction starter from a C4 or 90s truck-that's what I have and I like it very much.
Not to hijack the thread, but how exactly does the remote solenoid solve the problem? I have always wondered this. I mean you are still using the stock solenoid to engage the drive and it still has to disengage. Don't you have 2 solenoids to deal with then? Maybe it is so simple I just can't see it. I know it must work because many people use it that seem know what they are doing. Thanks for any clarification.
The problem with the stock solenoid is the thin wire feeding power to the solenoid. It is a little thing that can't supply enough power when the solenoid overheats and increases it's resistance. By shorting out the solenoid from the heavy feed wire by either making a solid copper jumper or using a heavy wire you are providing the needed current to operate the stock solenoid. The remote ford solenoid then acts as a switch sending power directly to the solenoid. While it acts as a switch also to the main heavy battery lead it's only duty is to turn on or off the original solenoid. The original solenoid now is shorted out so the ford solenoid acts as the controlling solenoid to turn the starter on or off. Hope this helps
I don't find the mini starters offer any more header clearance then a stock starter. This is a high torque mini starter and note the header clearance. NO way to rotate the body for more clearance either.
The problem with the stock solenoid is the thin wire feeding power to the solenoid. It is a little thing that can't supply enough power when the solenoid overheats and increases it's resistance. By shorting out the solenoid from the heavy feed wire by either making a solid copper jumper or using a heavy wire you are providing the needed current to operate the stock solenoid. The remote ford solenoid then acts as a switch sending power directly to the solenoid. While it acts as a switch also to the main heavy battery lead it's only duty is to turn on or off the original solenoid. The original solenoid now is shorted out so the ford solenoid acts as the controlling solenoid to turn the starter on or off. Hope this helps
Hey I had the same problem with my car when I had the hooker side pipes on the car. I bought two heat shields, one is on the bottom starter bolt and the other is on the brace from the starter to the engine block. I never had any problems since then.