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I've got the new bushings in and the cross shaft installed between the ears. Should the cross shaft be able to rotate freely between the ears?
Yes I used a press without a stabilizer between the ears but I went very slow and carefully. If I whack the crossshaft with a hammer it will rotate somewhat.Is me Control Arm toast?
With the end bolts loose, the shaft should turn easily. Tighten them only after the suspension is assembled and full vehicle weight is on the suspension.
With the end bolts loose, the shaft should turn easily. Tighten them only after the suspension is assembled and full vehicle weight is on the suspension.
I have heard this before and I don't agree with it. The cross shafts should rotate freely. This applies to poly bushings, not rubber. Anyway why should the cross shafts need to be tightened under full vehicle weight?? The bushing are not to act a shocks and resist motion. I want the bushings to be tight yes but not bind. I put my cross shafts in the vise and move the A arm up and down to make sure there is not binding. If they bind and you can only tighten them under load then they will be destroyed with normal movement of the A arm while driving. I have shocks to resist up and down motion. I don't need my A arm bushings resisting too.
I use poly, lots a grease and they move freely. I tighten the bolts on the bench then test for free movement.
This meathod applies only to factory style rubber bushings. The center bushing sleeve is serrated at the ends, which when tightened will lock on the shaft, preventing rotation. I have read about tightening the bolts in several publications, and have done it that way for longer than I care to remember. I agree with you completely, poly is better, but nothing in the original rubber design prevents them from locking.
I just did my front suspension also but have yet to put the engine in, so I haven't tightened the cross shaft bolts yet. Mine move freely when loose and bind when torqued. I checked this before I installed the springs. In the instructions that came with the poly bushing kit, it says to torque them after the vehicle is on the ground and ALL of the weight is on it. I would also suspect that this binding would cause improper function of the susp, but then again we are dealing with a 3000 lbs car and when it hits a dip in the road the susp WILL go up and down like it is supposed to. At least is isn't like the original bushings that I took out, I couldn't even get the cross shaft to turn while the control arm was in a vise and I used a pair of channel locks on it!! I say just follow the instructions and be happy that you have BRAND NEW PARTS in your car. just my .02
Poly and rubber are completely different. The suspension should not be tightened until the weight of the vehicle is placed on the bushings when using rubber. By doing so it will have the bushing 'centered'. Poly bushing move freely. It shouldn't matter if they are tightened before placing the load on the suspession. I think of poly bushings more as rubber bearing.
I don't know about poly but if you used rubber you should be able to rotate the rod. It may be a little tough but it should move. When you put the weight of the car on them the center shaft will rotate to its "at rest" position. Then you tighten the end bolts to lock everything down. If you tighten the end bolts down before the weight is on them then the car will cause the bushing to bind up and they will be destoryed over time.... you will also notice your front ride height too high.
I don't know about poly but if you used rubber you should be able to rotate the rod. It may be a little tough but it should move. When you put the weight of the car on them the center shaft will rotate to its "at rest" position. Then you tighten the end bolts to lock everything down. If you tighten the end bolts down before the weight is on them then the car will cause the bushing to bind up and they will be destoryed over time.... you will also notice your front ride height too high.