When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Alright, I've replaced all control arm and rear bushings w/ poly, adjusted the camber as far as the cam would go on the rear tie rods, replaced the whole differential, etc etc....the only thing left is the spring. Will the 1/2" washer trick really work to get the wheel straight up and down (camber neutral)?
Second issue: By moving the trailing arm shims around will this bring my toe in on the left rear wheel? This wheel is all jacked up and the toe in is bad with all four shimms on the outside. BUT, all four shims are on the outside on the RR trailing arm with no problem. Just looking for some good 'ol experience with this mess.
Alright, I've replaced all control arm and rear bushings w/ poly, adjusted the camber as far as the cam would go on the rear tie rods, replaced the whole differential, etc etc....the only thing left is the spring. Will the 1/2" washer trick really work to get the wheel straight up and down (camber neutral)?
I tried to go the cheap route before on another car and was disappointed. The springs were overstressed and made the car handle poorly (spongy). A couple of years ago, I spent $99 on a new rear spring for my 65. It got the car to its proper ride height and fixed a number of small issues, including the camber. It rode like a new car. I couldn't believe the difference. The price of steel has gone up a bit since 2003, but I'm sure a new 63-79 spring will be reasonable.
Rear camber is usually affected by the condition of the strut rod bushings, differential side yokes, and the spring. You have stated that you have changed your strut rod bushings. If you did not replace your differential side yokes, I would check them by removing the half shafts and pulling the side yokes outward to see how far they travel. 1/8" is the max they should move. If your spring is not keeping your car at the correct height, this will also throw off your camber because the car is squatting.
However, the fact that you are unable to correct your tow in issue by moving your shims around leads me to believe that you might have a bigger issue. Maybe a bent trailing arm, issues with the rear cross-member, or a bent frame. Make a cardboard template of one trailing are and compare it to the other. Heck, measure your half shafts and make sure they are the same size.
Yep, I agree with your analysis. The side yokes are brand spanking new as well as the differential. The bushings are new too. The spring is the only thing left. Heck, it's 26 years old, I guess it's served it purpose.
As far as the shims, I think I just need to move them around to fix the toe problem. I was just bouncing it off some of you guys to see what you thought. I was only wondering due to the fact that the Right side is OK with all the shims on one side of the trailing arm, but the Left side is off with the shims in the same location. Weird huh? Thanks for the insightful information! This sight ROCKS!
I lowered the rear of my 81 with longer spring bolts about 8 1/2 inches and my rear camber is off, a litttle negative and my adjusment is maxed out. is this normal after lowering the rear? what is the washer trick? also the spring is new
The lowering in the problem with the camber adjustment. This is the same problem I'm having with the old spring. I think the longer spring bolts are your problem.
The washer trick is to add a 1/2" thick washer to the spring bolts to raise the car to near orignal ride height ( to compensate for old spring sag).
Here is an article from Hot Rod TV. It is a write up of some of the cool stuff that Tom's Differential sells for our rears. Specifically this page explains the height camber issue. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/1...rs/index3.html