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Headlight Console Lamp

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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 12:20 PM
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Default Headlight Console Lamp

Hi, I replaced both headlight switches as one was missing and the other was bad (these are at the h/l themselves)when I turn on the h/l the h/l lamp on my center console comes on, but I think the lamp should go out shouldn't it, when the h/l are in the fully open position and if so is there an adjustment for this, I do see a h/l adjusment screw but i dont think this will affect the lamp on the console. Your thoughts?
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 01:01 PM
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When the h/l circut is activated (pulling the dash ****) and the h/l are in a fully open locked position, the h/l door switch plunger should be fully depressed, turning off the dash light. Check to see that the h/l assemblies are fully locked in the upright position, and the h /l door swith is mounted tightly. Might be loose...
Eddie
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 01:15 PM
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One easy way to test this circuit is to put a C-clamp on both headlight position switches (after removing them from the headlight mechanisms) to keep them pushed in, then pull the dash headlight switch. If the electrical part of the warning system is OK, the red light on the console should stay out (clamping the switches shut fools the circuit into thinking the headlights are already up). If the headlight warning light now stays out, then the problem is an adjustment within the headlight mechanism. One quick thing to check is the screw at the bottom of the J-bar. If this moves, it can prevent the actuator from extending as far as it's supposed to go. This also prevents the "knee" from locking and keeps all the weight of the headlight on the actuator. A forum member had this happen a few months ago.
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Vette Gator
One easy way to test this circuit is to put a C-clamp on both headlight position switches (after removing them from the headlight mechanisms) to keep them pushed in, then pull the dash headlight switch. If the electrical part of the warning system is OK, the red light on the console should stay out (clamping the switches shut fools the circuit into thinking the headlights are already up). If the headlight warning light now stays out, then the problem is an adjustment within the headlight mechanism. .
good trick!!
Eddie
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 01:23 AM
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Hi the screw you are refering to, is that the long one I see when I look up into the h/l assembly, looks like a 1/4 inch socket would fit it?
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by JIMS1970VETTE
Hi the screw you are refering to, is that the long one I see when I look up into the h/l assembly, looks like a 1/4 inch socket would fit it?
This "screw" is on the end of a flat (strap steel) L or J shapped bracket, and is mounted on the outward side (fender side) of both H/L assemblies. This screw is a stop, that can be adjusted to "stop" the headlight travel for the open position. Look for it from undernieth and on the fender side.
Eddie
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JIMS1970VETTE
Hi, I replaced both headlight switches as one was missing and the other was bad (these are at the h/l themselves)when I turn on the h/l the h/l lamp on my center console comes on, but I think the lamp should go out shouldn't it, when the h/l are in the fully open position and if so is there an adjustment for this, I do see a h/l adjusment screw but i dont think this will affect the lamp on the console. Your thoughts?
Jim,

You need to shim the headlamp switch at the knuckle. Mine is doing the same. My headlights lock the knuckle fine but the light is still on. I had a switch missing and the other one does not depress anoth to turn out th eannoying dash light. (The previous owner removed the light bulb from the dash!)

Get a small piece of plastic (old tupperware/glad lid) and cut a small square out. Turn on the headlights and leave them in the up position. Wedge the little piece of plastic in between the swtich and the knuckle. Does the dash light go out? If it does then superglue the plastic in place.

If the knuckle does not close fully then adjust the mechanics so it does. My J stop does not have a screw. The J-stop should not touch when the knuckle is fully closed. They need about 1/8-1/4" air gap so they don't stop the knuckle closing. The J-stop is just there to stop your headlights flipping over and damaging something when you are doing 150MPH on the freeway with air pressure pushing on them.
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 01:05 PM
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Thats what I think I was going to have to do (shim the knuckle) as it looks like alls it needs is about 1/8 inch or so, but will try the adjustment screw first.Thanks for everyones input.
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 08:39 PM
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Blatant rip-off pics from this thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...421&forum_id=3

With the switch depressed, the light goes out.

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