Hello guys. I'm dropping a LS1 out of a 2003 C5 and a T56 out of a 02 Camaro into my '72 Vette. I test fitted the engine today and figured I'd let you guys know what I've learned so far with this swap vs. a Camaro swap. The T-56 will go in next week. I've also purchased a Steeroids Rack and Pinion, so I'll be test fitting that also before the body comes off.

OK, first thing I can tell you is that the accessories are all over the A-Arms. As with the Camaro LS1, the heater hose outlets need to be removed and relocated and the inlet on the waterpump will later have to be changed. The AC Compressor, steering pump pulley, and the bracket that holds the steering pump and altenator (one big bracket) all hit the A-arms. I might be able to use the altenator/steering pump bracket without the steering pump, but it would require some modification and I don't know if it would work with the Street and Perofrmance brackets that I'll probably end up buying. So I'm probably just going to buy all the accessories and brackets from S&P (ouch!!).

The "batwing" oil pan is really close to the power steering cylinder. I haven't got the T56 tranny in yet, so the engine may be tilted farther down or up which might cause it to hit. I'm fairly certain it won't though, and the batwing offers better ground clearance then the Camaro oil pan. It will be intesting to see how the Steeroids works with that oil pan.

I also did some preliminary measurments with the stock small block hood on the clearance I'll have. I'm planning on going to a Magnuson supercharger later and also a big block hood. I'm hoping that no modification will be required on the new hood. Keep in mind these might change a bit since the tranny isn't in place yet. Despite how the picture looks I have 2 1/8" of clearance and on the back of the plennum I have 2 3/4" of clearance. No comments from the peanut gallery on anything my putty might resemble.

If anyone wants me to measure anything or take pics of anything I'll be happy to. I'll also be putting LS6 heads and modified (to fit the heads) stainless steal Hooker Sidepipes on this car, so should be interesting.

 

If there was no slave cylinder, then there would be no clearance issues with the batwing right? If you want to run a supercharger, it is probably best to buy some ported 6.0L heads. They have larger chambers and will drop compression by around a point, the ls6 heads will raise compression by .5 a point or so. The 6.0L heads also flow close to what the ls6 do. And yes, I am resisting as much as I can not to mention your interested pile of clay that resembles other things.....

 

going to be cool keep us up to date

 

that Vette is going to be a fun car to drive

That was

 

I have to agree with lostpatroman. I have been r3eading a lot about blowers and turbos lately. Compression is not your friend. If you are going to supercharge get the compression down and the flow rate up. Big heads and dished psitons are probably whats needed. I don't know crap about LS1s but is the crank forged? Can a used LS1 handle the pain you are going to throw at it with that motor?

Nice work so far. If my car wasn't so original I would get a GM crate motor LS1 and stick one in myself. Keep us posted. Pics are always appreciated. Especially how you solve the A-arm clearance issues.

Pete

 

There are no problems with the crank. They are basically indestructable, I dont think anyone has broken one from too much power. And there have been people putting some rediculous amounts of power through them. The con rods and pistons are good for somewhere around 500rwhp if you have a GOOD tune. Any detonation and kiss the bottom end goodbye. The weakest link in the bottom end are the con rod bolts and the pistons. The pistons are hypereutectic and tend to break ring lands from detonation. I think #8 is usually the one that goes since it runs leaner then the rest due to intake design. I just looked at www.ls1tech.com . Stock the ls1 is 10:1 compression, the ls6 heads would put you at 10.5, and the 6.0 heads would put you at 9.5 maybe a tad less depending on gaskets.

 

is the oil cap higher than the intake?? kinda looks like it in the pics

 

i helped my friend put an ls1 and T56 in an rx-7 this summer. it was a lot of little stuff to deal with.

 

This is bringing back memories. Why don't you pick up a set of the F-body brackets? S & P is going to put a big hole in the money pocket.

Questions.
Are you going to ditch the fly by wire?
What fuel system are you going with?

 

 

thats going to be a sweet ride

 

Very cool.

 

I might pick up a set of F-body brackets, but I still wouldn't be able to use the AC right? My understanding is that the S & P AC bracket won't work with the F-Bod brackets and I really need AC. Living in Florida and having a car that will be black absolutely requires it. If you're running AC I'm all ears for alternatives.

I'd like to keep the electric throttle for the factor. I know they make kits, but I haven't looked at how much they are or done any research on them yet.

When I did the fuel injection on my '82 I used an aftermarket in-line pump that worked pretty good. Might go that same route if possible. As for the injectors whatever comes with the Magnuson (42#??). I'm also considering using Accel's Calmap for engine management instead of the stock computer. I have a tuner down here that did some work on my '82 swears to me he can put a better tune on it then anyone. I haven't given the fuel system much thought. Right now my mind is on getting everything set to pull the body.

 

I don't know if I'm going to have clearance issues yet with the batwing yet. I'll find out when the tranny goes in and the engine is sitting at its proper tilt later this week.

There are plenty of people running maggies on Z06's in this forum. I also talked to magnuson and the guys at Lingenfelter before buying these heads. I thought the same thing about the compression, but perhaps because it only runs a max of 8 lb. and only like 5 lb. on the LS1 to avoid detonation. Gets more HP then the truck motors though.

 

Are you sure the Calmap will work with individual coil packs like the ls1? Besides, why would you go to an aftermarket system if you are only running 5lbs of boost? The stock pcm can handle that amount.

 

Yes, it will. They sell a wiring harness and the new versions of Calmap will support the LS1. I've heard that the MAF sensor maxes out when you use forced induction so a MAP sensor is better. I'm not sure if a measley 5 or 6 lb. of boost will do that. I haven't heard of anyone using an aftermarket engine management system on a boosted LS1 and thought it might be cool to give it a try. Who knows, maybe the tuner can pick up a few extra ponies.

Nothing is final yet and I'm probably at least a year away from getting the engine cranked. I have quite a bit more research to do before I make any final decisions.

 

Thanks for the tip on removing the heater fittings. I was a little worried about just going at them with a pair of vise grips, but worked great

 

no prob

 

[QUOTE=SuprJames]I might pick up a set of F-body brackets, but I still wouldn't be able to use the AC right? My understanding is that the S & P AC bracket won't work with the F-Bod brackets and I really need AC. Living in Florida and having a car that will be black absolutely requires it. If you're running AC I'm all ears for alternatives.

QUOTE]
S & P has a kit to just add A/C to the top pass side. It made for a sanderson compressor and you just add a longer belt. You could also just make some plate brackets for a 84 vette compressor.

I would pull the sending unit and graft in a pump. I'm not sold on the frame mount with a late model tank. Just pull it, cut the pipe with a tube cutter, and braze in a bracket to support the pump. Some FI rubber tubing and your there. I using a late model LT1 pump that was used and it been running for 5 years and two motors.

 

There are a few things about S/P's stuff. Bud is right, it will be expensive. The headers, while very nice, didn't fit on the driver's side, had to mod a couple of tubes and re-dip. I also wasn't pleased with the quality of the pulleys. Seems to me they are made for show cars as the center bolt covers are held in only with rubber O-rings-fine if they never get hot. It's a good company, don't get me wrong. I just could have done better with less expense for a driver.

Cool ride, by the way.