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Got the same problem. One side is out by 3/4". Mine was hit at some stage though. Frame seems fine but I think the fender wasn't glued back on right. That might account for it. Not very noticable really.
I did a body off restoration on my car. My car sat lower on the drivers side before the resto, so I chalked it up to the fact that the solid aluminum body mounts had turned into pretty much dust. Fast forward to body drop and shimming, and it soon became apparent to me that it was not the suspension or frame, it was how the body was bonded together. I could not shim away the problem because the amount of shims required to correct it, made the brackets for the rear bumpers go out of their normal range of adjustment. I thought I was going crazy, so I checked the space in the rear wheel wells that was between the bottom of the underbody, and the top of the rear frame rails, and it was the same on both sides, and the drivers side was still 3/4" lower! I ended up correcting it by using longer rear spring bolts to lower the passenger side to match. I have seen this problem on many early C3's....maybe they were the cars made on Mondays and Fridays!
I AM IN THE MIDDLE OF MY 76 BODY OFF AND FOUND #4 MOUNT BRACKETS RUSTED THROUGH ,ALONG WITH BODY REINFORCMENT. HOW DO YOU RIVET THE REPLACEMENT ONES IN AS THE INSIDE IS SUCH A SMALL SPACE? IS THERE ANY ALTERNITVE TO THE RIVETS? THANKS GUYS 1
Not crazy at all...#4 solid body mount and reinforcment rusted out causing sag on my car. Replaced both sides and she's level side to side within 1/16"
Eddie
HOW DO YOU REPLACE REINFORCMENT? MINE IS RUSTED THROUGH. I HAVE THE REPLACMENT ONES AND THE RIVETS BUT DOESNT LOOK LIKE ENOUGH ROOM TO GET INSIDE AND PEEN THEM OVER. IS THERE ANOTHER SOLUTION? THANX!
HOW DO YOU REPLACE REINFORCMENT? MINE IS RUSTED THROUGH. I HAVE THE REPLACMENT ONES AND THE RIVETS BUT DOESNT LOOK LIKE ENOUGH ROOM TO GET INSIDE AND PEEN THEM OVER. IS THERE ANOTHER SOLUTION? THANX!
by lifting the body..... is yours this bad?---http://www.geocities.com/carlclub2/----the fiberglass is gone in the photo,,lift body fix glass install and rivit new body mt #4 reinforcement plate ..my car leaned a good inch....new chassis then look,now level---------------------------------
by lifting the body..... is yours this bad?---http://www.geocities.com/carlclub2/----the fiberglass is gone in the photo,,lift body fix glass install and rivit new body mt #4 reinforcement plate ..my car leaned a good inch....new chassis then look,now level---------------------------------
THE BODY IS OFF THE FRAME.I REPLACED THE RUSTED OUT #4 BRACKET. THE REINFORCMENT WAS ALSO RUSTED.I CAN'T SEE HOW ONE CAN PUT THE RIVETS UP FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE REINFORCMENT AND PEEN THEM OVER FROM THE INSIDE. TIGHT AREA TO GET INTO. YOUR CAR LOOKS GREAT. THANKS FOR THE REPLY.
With the car setting on a level surface, measure the height of the frame rails above the ground. The drivers side frame rail should be the same height above the ground as the passengers frame rail. Make the measurements on both sides; measure the frame to ground distance at the #2 and #3 body mounts. These measurements should help determine if it's the body that is skewed.
Also, another good data point is to weigh the car at each wheel. The rear spring of my 69 was bent and the frame slightly tweeked. This was not obvious until the car wheel footprints were weighed. Then it was discovered that the car was essentially setting on three wheels; the front two and the left rear. The weight at the right rear was about 250 less (?) than the left rear. Weighing the car at the wheels, I would think, would help discover a sagging spring also.
I'm glad I'm not the only one with this problem! My car sags at the rear only by almost 2". I think I'll look at the spring and see if I can adjust that a bit. For now, I'll just make other drivers think I weigh about 400lbs. At least it's not my girlfriend's side!!!