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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 11:25 AM
  #41  
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The 454 has the clearances machined under the valley. You can stick a 427 rotating ***. or a 454s.
You can't do it the other way around unless you machine those areas in a 427, which then makes at a 454 block
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 02:39 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
yes, I have a "built" TH200R4 (used to have a Tremec TKO 5-speed before)

I'm curious, why the switch from the Tremec?
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 03:04 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by thanke
I'm curious, why the switch from the Tremec?
Faster and more consistent.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 06:10 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by thanke
I'm curious, why the switch from the Tremec?
Olivier's getting old I guess...
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:09 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by groovyjay
Olivier's getting old I guess...

That explains it!

really, I was wondering if you were blowing joints or twisting shafts with the manual transmission.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:51 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by thanke
I'm curious, why the switch from the Tremec?
I'm bracket racing and a stick shift is not suited too well for that...
It's almost impossible to be as consistent as with automatic transmission...
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:52 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by groovyjay
Olivier's getting old I guess...
I'm really a stick shift guy... It was a tough decision to go with a automatic..but I want to be competitive when bracket racing...
I converted the '68 to automatic, but went from a automatic C5 to a 6-speed C5
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 10:59 PM
  #48  
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Never beat an auto for consistency...waaa
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 02:21 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I'm bracket racing and a stick shift is not suited too well for that...
It's almost impossible to be as consistent as with automatic transmission...

So did you have any trouble with your U joints and half shafts with slicks? I'm guessing you have a pretty beefy Irs to do 11's

I'm wondering how much more abusive the manual trans is to the drivetrain compared to the auto
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 07:41 AM
  #50  
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why not cut holes in the frame too like the nascar late model boys.. that'll save a couple hundred pounds
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 01:01 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
I'm talking about all 3 crossmembers.. They all can be cut/removed and replaced by chromoly tubular units..

(tranny x-menber, rear x-menber, diff x-member)
Don't forget the front removeable crossmember used as a radiator support and attaching point for the front bumpers. This piece looks like low hanging fruit it you're looking for more parts to lighten.

Maybe you could duplicate the function of this piece in titanium? Also, if you're not worried about the strength of the bumper's you could even duplicate this part in aluminum.

The early C3's have a lot of weight in the bumper's but this heavy weight doesn't add much protection. The rear bumpers are attached to the fiberglass (at the bumper ends) and the front bumper is also closely virtually mated to the front fiberglass. Since just a light tap on the bumpers will produce damage, why carry all that weight around? Replace the heavy bumper fasteners with aluminum bolts (or titanium), reduplicate the brackets in aluminum, (titanium)?

Another thing I would like to do, (but probably never will have the time) is duplicate the bumpers in fiberglass and then have them metallized in chrome. All this work would produce a chrome bumper C3 with a great reduction in weight.

Also, I'm really surprised about the weight of the door window glass.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 01:24 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by thanke
So did you have any trouble with your U joints and half shafts with slicks? I'm guessing you have a pretty beefy Irs to do 11's

I'm wondering how much more abusive the manual trans is to the drivetrain compared to the auto
I broke 2 rear ends with my 5-speed.. All the other components held up fine. I was using solid spicer u-joints and had no issues with them.
With my current setup, I'm using 1480 series u-joints.. Those are almost impossible to break...
I'm also using Tom's 12-bolt rear end and axle kit.. The rear should hold up to close to 1000 HP...
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 01:26 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
Don't forget the front removeable crossmember used as a radiator support and attaching point for the front bumpers. This piece looks like low hanging fruit it you're looking for more parts to lighten.

Maybe you could duplicate the function of this piece in titanium? Also, if you're not worried about the strength of the bumper's you could even duplicate this part in aluminum.

The early C3's have a lot of weight in the bumper's but this heavy weight doesn't add much protection. The rear bumpers are attached to the fiberglass (at the bumper ends) and the front bumper is also closely virtually mated to the front fiberglass. Since just a light tap on the bumpers will produce damage, why carry all that weight around? Replace the heavy bumper fasteners with aluminum bolts (or titanium), reduplicate the brackets in aluminum, (titanium)?

Another thing I would like to do, (but probably never will have the time) is duplicate the bumpers in fiberglass and then have them metallized in chrome. All this work would produce a chrome bumper C3 with a great reduction in weight.

Also, I'm really surprised about the weight of the door window glass.
The bumpers weight about 25 - 30 lbs...
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 02:17 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
......Also, I'm really surprised about the weight of the door window glass.
Just .02. I've read the door glass on the last of the C3's (81-82) was made thinner to save on weight. But a lot of work for a few pounds.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 02:37 PM
  #55  
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In my opinion, modifying C3's is what makes them so much fun. Finding ways to remove weight provides an endless means of opportunity. I also heard that the later vettes have thinner door glass. I am not sure how much of an ordeal it would be to change them over and how much weight difference there is. I spoke to a car painter and he was going to make some bumpers for me out of fiberglass, just as one of our members mentioned. He since disappeared. He was going to use the stock bumpers as the means of making a mold to form the dimensions of the fiberglass bumpers.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 08:12 PM
  #56  
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sorry grand sport, but i have to agree that coil overs are the way to go, as i see them on ALOT of cars, tube chassis or not. alot of newer cars have a sort of stock coilover built right in ( camaro/mustang ) and theyre going 8 sec. now. and also ive seen tubualar a-arms in almost every vette catalog i own. .02
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 10:39 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by redc3
sorry grand sport, but i have to agree that coil overs are the way to go, as i see them on ALOT of cars, tube chassis or not. alot of newer cars have a sort of stock coilover built right in ( camaro/mustang ) and theyre going 8 sec. now. and also ive seen tubualar a-arms in almost every vette catalog i own. .02
It all depends on front end weight... If your front is over 1600 lbs, the coilovers will not give you enough weight transfer..especially if you don't have 800 HP.. With 500 - 700 HP, you'll need the help of the springs to get the front end up..
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Old Sep 20, 2005 | 08:22 AM
  #58  
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Guys aluminum is much lighter then titanium A cubic foot of aluminum is 165 pounds, a cubic foot of titanium is 281 and steel for comparision is 490 pounds.
So use aluminum as much as possible to reduce weight and it costs alot less and welds easily.
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