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The 454 has the clearances machined under the valley. You can stick a 427 rotating ***. or a 454s.
You can't do it the other way around unless you machine those areas in a 427, which then makes at a 454 block
I'm really a stick shift guy... It was a tough decision to go with a automatic..but I want to be competitive when bracket racing...
I converted the '68 to automatic, but went from a automatic C5 to a 6-speed C5
I'm talking about all 3 crossmembers.. They all can be cut/removed and replaced by chromoly tubular units..
(tranny x-menber, rear x-menber, diff x-member)
Don't forget the front removeable crossmember used as a radiator support and attaching point for the front bumpers. This piece looks like low hanging fruit it you're looking for more parts to lighten.
Maybe you could duplicate the function of this piece in titanium? Also, if you're not worried about the strength of the bumper's you could even duplicate this part in aluminum.
The early C3's have a lot of weight in the bumper's but this heavy weight doesn't add much protection. The rear bumpers are attached to the fiberglass (at the bumper ends) and the front bumper is also closely virtually mated to the front fiberglass. Since just a light tap on the bumpers will produce damage, why carry all that weight around? Replace the heavy bumper fasteners with aluminum bolts (or titanium), reduplicate the brackets in aluminum, (titanium)?
Another thing I would like to do, (but probably never will have the time) is duplicate the bumpers in fiberglass and then have them metallized in chrome. All this work would produce a chrome bumper C3 with a great reduction in weight.
Also, I'm really surprised about the weight of the door window glass.
So did you have any trouble with your U joints and half shafts with slicks? I'm guessing you have a pretty beefy Irs to do 11's
I'm wondering how much more abusive the manual trans is to the drivetrain compared to the auto
I broke 2 rear ends with my 5-speed.. All the other components held up fine. I was using solid spicer u-joints and had no issues with them.
With my current setup, I'm using 1480 series u-joints.. Those are almost impossible to break...
I'm also using Tom's 12-bolt rear end and axle kit.. The rear should hold up to close to 1000 HP...
Don't forget the front removeable crossmember used as a radiator support and attaching point for the front bumpers. This piece looks like low hanging fruit it you're looking for more parts to lighten.
Maybe you could duplicate the function of this piece in titanium? Also, if you're not worried about the strength of the bumper's you could even duplicate this part in aluminum.
The early C3's have a lot of weight in the bumper's but this heavy weight doesn't add much protection. The rear bumpers are attached to the fiberglass (at the bumper ends) and the front bumper is also closely virtually mated to the front fiberglass. Since just a light tap on the bumpers will produce damage, why carry all that weight around? Replace the heavy bumper fasteners with aluminum bolts (or titanium), reduplicate the brackets in aluminum, (titanium)?
Another thing I would like to do, (but probably never will have the time) is duplicate the bumpers in fiberglass and then have them metallized in chrome. All this work would produce a chrome bumper C3 with a great reduction in weight.
Also, I'm really surprised about the weight of the door window glass.
In my opinion, modifying C3's is what makes them so much fun. Finding ways to remove weight provides an endless means of opportunity. I also heard that the later vettes have thinner door glass. I am not sure how much of an ordeal it would be to change them over and how much weight difference there is. I spoke to a car painter and he was going to make some bumpers for me out of fiberglass, just as one of our members mentioned. He since disappeared. He was going to use the stock bumpers as the means of making a mold to form the dimensions of the fiberglass bumpers.
sorry grand sport, but i have to agree that coil overs are the way to go, as i see them on ALOT of cars, tube chassis or not. alot of newer cars have a sort of stock coilover built right in ( camaro/mustang ) and theyre going 8 sec. now. and also ive seen tubualar a-arms in almost every vette catalog i own. .02
sorry grand sport, but i have to agree that coil overs are the way to go, as i see them on ALOT of cars, tube chassis or not. alot of newer cars have a sort of stock coilover built right in ( camaro/mustang ) and theyre going 8 sec. now. and also ive seen tubualar a-arms in almost every vette catalog i own. .02
It all depends on front end weight... If your front is over 1600 lbs, the coilovers will not give you enough weight transfer..especially if you don't have 800 HP.. With 500 - 700 HP, you'll need the help of the springs to get the front end up..
Guys aluminum is much lighter then titanium A cubic foot of aluminum is 165 pounds, a cubic foot of titanium is 281 and steel for comparision is 490 pounds.
So use aluminum as much as possible to reduce weight and it costs alot less and welds easily.