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While working on my head cam swap I was going through my Hei distributor. I found the #1103443 stamped on it which means it was found on the 1981 190 HP, 350ci. with EST. Well, that explaines why i dont have an advance can weights or springs. The original engine builder set the car up with this, of course minus the ECT components. Was he off his rocker or was he in good mind? The engine was 9.5'ish comp ratio, Port and Polished LT-1 heads, a massive solid cam, victor jr manifold 750 DP. All in all the car pulled great above 3000 RPM with interesting street manners and lots of fouled plugs no detonation. Anyway, should I continue to run this Distributor with my new heads, Dart IE 200's platn. and my new cam a crane F-278-2? Or should I ditch it for a replacement HEI with weights, advance etc. Would their be any difference? Also, I am going to run an Accel 300+ iginition off of it.
I would get a distributor that had all the appropriate parts in it.
I am running a GMPP 350/290 with a standard HEI and little things like the recurve kit make a big difference in the way it responds.
That distributor is supposed to be computer controlled to get the advance it needs. No computer = No advance. I think you will be suprised with the proper setup.
Either that or this is the perfect time to go "high tech"
If you've got a basically naked distributor, this is a great time to match your other good aftermarket setups with a good ignition system - an MSD6AL, 7 series or other equivalent from the other big names. Many of these will give you better control of spark events than the early '80's factory setup - and much more adjustable. For the effort of installing the missing bits and running the necessary wiring, it's worth taking your time to research all your options.
If you've got a basically naked distributor, this is a great time to match your other good aftermarket setups with a good ignition system - an MSD6AL, 7 series or other equivalent from the other big names. Many of these will give you better control of spark events than the early '80's factory setup - and much more adjustable. For the effort of installing the missing bits and running the necessary wiring, it's worth taking your time to research all your options.
You've already started upgrading with the accel components, why limit that and your performance with an HEI? Not to say the HEI isn't a good all around distributor when properly tuned but there are many other viable options within the same price range. I run a Mallory Uni-Lite mech advance with Hy-Fire VI. The tuning is programable from the drivers seat, as well as an auto ignition retard for cranking the car to help take a little load off the starter. It also has provisions for upgrading to blowers, nitrous etc... Built in rev limiter that is adjustable place to hook MAP sensor the list goes on. Why use a distributor that will not take full advantage of this? Before I get flamed, there is nothing wrong with a properly set-up HEI, but with an igniton controlling device why not match parts that compliment each other? This is just my opinion but it works for me.
This is a picture taken awhile back that shows where I mounted mine. Floorboard on pass side wasn't finished and carpet wasn't installed, and the biggest thing is I did away with the e-brake stuff. If I need to brake the car I chock the wheels or turn on the line-lock as I have never trusted an e-brake anyway.
Just another option for you to consider. BTW the box can be mounted in the engine compartment or any where else for that matter.
I realize your point. Why not update? I am not sure what to get? As I already have the Accell 3000+ ignition system with rev limiter and the matching in cap coil. What other distrubutor options do I have besides another rebuilt hei with normal internals or say a mallory aftermarket HEI? Would I gaining more or just spending more?
It really all depends on what you plan to do with the motor now as well as your long term goals. If the motor is going to stay under 5500 rpm's or so I would say a good re-built and properly set up HEI wouldn't be a bad choice. A problem I have had in the past with used HEI's is like any other mass produced used part, the tolerances and a little wear make the timing want to bounce around at higher rpm's much the same as it would at lower rpm's if the bushings/gear were worn. I guess my biggest pitch for aftermarket distributors such as Mallory, Accel, MSD or others is you spend about the same ammount of money for a distributor that is made for 10,000 rpm's as you would for one that was made for 5500-6000 rpm's. I am not an expert by any means but I know what has worked for me in the past and now. I am a little partial to Mallory stuff because I personnaly have had good luck with there stuff over the years. I also currently run a Comp 140 pump, with Mallory filter and regulator for my fuel system. That's just my preference though that is not to say anything negative about other companies products.
To answer your bottom line question I think even with an aftermarket HEI you will be ahead of the game as opposed to a stock used one. Think of it this way with all the other mods done to the engine would you expect a factory tuned Q-jet to handle the difference in demands your engine now has for when and how much fuel it wants? Also you noted fouled plugs, it doesn't do any good for the engine to have ported heads, cam, intake and so on if you can't ignite it consistently every time. You may want to PM Lars regarding this as he has helped many people with his tuning guru skills. All this being said something you can tune and get cosistent results with is the main thing. A little money now will save considerable head-aches down the road. Let us know what rpm range and any other add-on's you plan on using.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Ur experimenting. Just get it running first.
Originally Posted by ferndog4
While working on my head cam swap I was going through my Hei distributor. I found the #1103443 stamped on it which means it was found on the 1981 190 HP, 350ci. with EST. Well, that explaines why i dont have an advance can weights or springs. The original engine builder set the car up with this, of course minus the ECT components. Was he off his rocker or was he in good mind? The engine was 9.5'ish comp ratio, Port and Polished LT-1 heads, a massive solid cam, victor jr manifold 750 DP. All in all the car pulled great above 3000 RPM with interesting street manners and lots of fouled plugs no detonation. Anyway, should I continue to run this Distributor with my new heads, Dart IE 200's platn. and my new cam a crane F-278-2? Or should I ditch it for a replacement HEI with weights, advance etc. Would their be any difference? Also, I am going to run an Accel 300+ iginition off of it.
thanks!
IMHO those rebuilt/overhauled and upgraded HEI units from Summit/Accel for $100-$150 would be great to start with. Do the upgrades later when u have all the new eng parts in and working/running smoothly. Otherwise u maynot/won't know where ur problems are comming from. Believe me i know what its like to prelube then install the dist, then try to start, then remove the dist, then prelube, then install the dist, then try to start, then remove the dist, then prelube, then install the dist, then try to start,....
Well the short story on mine was the batt term had corroded (over the long shut down) the MSB + terminal so bad the box made no pwr/spark.
So if u think u need all that hi-po ign stuff just to get'er running then good luck to u. BTW stock HEI hook-up is only 1 wire.
cardo0
Say, i couldn't find that F-278-2 cam on Crane's ws?
He was off his rocker. Without all of the computer and sensors, you don't have any advance as the 81 distributor does all timing advance electronically based on various engine parameters.
IMHO those rebuilt/overhauled and upgraded HEI units from Summit/Accel for $100-$150 would be great to start with. Do the upgrades later when u have all the new eng parts in and working/running smoothly. Otherwise u maynot/won't know where ur problems are comming from. Believe me i know what its like to prelube then install the dist, then try to start, then remove the dist, then prelube, then install the dist, then try to start, then remove the dist, then prelube, then install the dist, then try to start,....
Well the short story on mine was the batt term had corroded (over the long shut down) the MSB + terminal so bad the box made no pwr/spark.
So if u think u need all that hi-po ign stuff just to get'er running then good luck to u. BTW stock HEI hook-up is only 1 wire.
cardo0
Say, i couldn't find that F-278-2 cam on Crane's ws?
Cardo0,
The cam was recommended by kgull, motorhead with my set up.