Help with my Muncie
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,366
Likes: 7
From: Las Vegas NV
Help with my Muncie
I need HELP!!! 
I have an L46 (350/350) 1970 Corvette with a M21 Muncie 4-speed. Me and a friend did the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. We did not replace the flywheel or have it resurfaced...it was in excellent condition and there was no scoring, etc. We put the trans back in and now the shifter seems to be sitting more forward in the console than before, even though all the trans mounting brackets are in the same spot. For example, the shifter, when in nuetral, used to rest in the center of the console opening. Now it is further foward and when you put it in 3rd it hits the front of the shifter console. The trans will go into 3rd and 4th, but will not engage in 1st or 2nd or Reverse. The clutch also has a LOT of free play...in fact, when I press in the clutch it's free play all the way down to the firewall. I went with a Center Force Dual Friction clutch kit that is going to require more adjustment than the factory rod seems to allow. I did remove and clean the shift rod linkage but did not change the adjustments and all the shift rods were not adjusted when cleaned and were put back into correct linkage brackets. In general, I have run into some strange issues as a result of what should have been a semi-simple in and out job.
I have an L46 (350/350) 1970 Corvette with a M21 Muncie 4-speed. Me and a friend did the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. We did not replace the flywheel or have it resurfaced...it was in excellent condition and there was no scoring, etc. We put the trans back in and now the shifter seems to be sitting more forward in the console than before, even though all the trans mounting brackets are in the same spot. For example, the shifter, when in nuetral, used to rest in the center of the console opening. Now it is further foward and when you put it in 3rd it hits the front of the shifter console. The trans will go into 3rd and 4th, but will not engage in 1st or 2nd or Reverse. The clutch also has a LOT of free play...in fact, when I press in the clutch it's free play all the way down to the firewall. I went with a Center Force Dual Friction clutch kit that is going to require more adjustment than the factory rod seems to allow. I did remove and clean the shift rod linkage but did not change the adjustments and all the shift rods were not adjusted when cleaned and were put back into correct linkage brackets. In general, I have run into some strange issues as a result of what should have been a semi-simple in and out job.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
Which holes in the trans shift arms did you put the rods?
The center force clutch requires you set up the clutch fork closer to the eng by using an adj pivot stud, there should be a orange sheet in with the clutch that outlines the fork set up procedure.
The center force clutch requires you set up the clutch fork closer to the eng by using an adj pivot stud, there should be a orange sheet in with the clutch that outlines the fork set up procedure.
Last edited by Fevre; Sep 30, 2005 at 02:35 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
When I first got my vette the shifter would hit the front of the plate but after moving the rods to the inner holes that went away plus it gives a shorter throw.
I went through the CF clutch thing, ended up getting the adj pivot stud when I had the eng out, it helped with some binding issues I had.
I went through the CF clutch thing, ended up getting the adj pivot stud when I had the eng out, it helped with some binding issues I had.
