Paint tech - primer sand through
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 492
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From: Birmingham AL
Paint tech - primer sand through
I've been working hard all week to get my '77 to the point of shooting paint this weekend. I just finished wet sanding the PPG K36 final primer layer this evening and I have a few, maybe 8-10, spots where the primer was a little thin and I sanded through to fiber glass. Do I need to re-prime these spots and wet sand them one more time?
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Are you putting sealer on top of the primer? If you are then it should be fine.
If you are shooting paint on then you better touch up those spots and lightly wet sand them again. Main issue will be why you broke through. Is it high there? Do you need to feather in that area? Hard to know from here.
Good luck with it. You already know the preapration is 90% of a great paint job.
If you are shooting paint on then you better touch up those spots and lightly wet sand them again. Main issue will be why you broke through. Is it high there? Do you need to feather in that area? Hard to know from here.
Good luck with it. You already know the preapration is 90% of a great paint job.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham AL
Originally Posted by stingry
Are you putting sealer on top of the primer? If you are then it should be fine.
If you are shooting paint on then you better touch up those spots and lightly wet sand them again. Main issue will be why you broke through. Is it high there? Do you need to feather in that area? Hard to know from here.
Good luck with it. You already know the preapration is 90% of a great paint job.
If you are shooting paint on then you better touch up those spots and lightly wet sand them again. Main issue will be why you broke through. Is it high there? Do you need to feather in that area? Hard to know from here.
Good luck with it. You already know the preapration is 90% of a great paint job.
The places where I got sand through were mostly the usual suspect areas of edges where I got a little too aggressive. By the end of the sanding I about had the tecnique mastered to avoid doing that but in the mean time I've got the "starter" issues to deal with.
Last edited by steves_77vette; Sep 30, 2005 at 10:05 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
Sounds like your not using a guide coat. This really helps in showing where to sand and where to stop. Can be used on all layers put down.
Either a contrasting color of lacquer don't use enamal it plugs the sand paper or there is a powder with an applicator pad. I think its nothing more than copier back stuff- graphite.
Just a mist coat is needed.
Another tip is leave all the peaks in the area for last. Its easier to go flattish method and the patient edge method seperately.
Either a contrasting color of lacquer don't use enamal it plugs the sand paper or there is a powder with an applicator pad. I think its nothing more than copier back stuff- graphite.
Just a mist coat is needed.
Another tip is leave all the peaks in the area for last. Its easier to go flattish method and the patient edge method seperately.
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by steves_77vette
You can seal over the K36? I put down the sealer, PPG DP-40LF, as the first stage.
The places where I got sand through were mostly the usual suspect areas of edges where I got a little too aggressive. By the end of the sanding I about had the tecnique mastered to avoid doing that but in the mean time I've got the "starter" issues to deal with.
The places where I got sand through were mostly the usual suspect areas of edges where I got a little too aggressive. By the end of the sanding I about had the tecnique mastered to avoid doing that but in the mean time I've got the "starter" issues to deal with.
We shot the sealer and then painted the topcoat within an hour of doing the sealer.
