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Figured out steering column but look what I found.what's this? PICS
I need to replace my ignition switch since it will not fire again, process of elimination. I have removed the bolts attaching the steering collumn to the dash bracket but it doesn't want to drop. What else do I have to do? Thanks, Gary
Last edited by GuinessGary; Oct 1, 2005 at 03:51 PM.
The steering column is down as far as it will go but now I can't feel the ignition switch. I know your suppose to feel for it and not see it but what a pita it is. I can see and feel the end plug of wires going to the ignition switch but where are the bolts to remove it. I have the seat out but seeing or feeling is difficult for this older body. Any ideas for removal of switch besides taking out the steering column? I know that would be out of the question for me. It's fustrating not to be able to do this.
I found this wire while looking at the wiring cluster on the firewall by the brake booster. Does anybody know where it should plug into. I'm having electrical problems from hell and thought this could be an important link to why my vette refuses to fire up. Thanks again, Gary
Last edited by GuinessGary; Oct 1, 2005 at 02:23 PM.
Even thought you have removed the two screw that hold the steering column up into the dash, it is still secured to the floor pan with the lower plates as well as the steering shaft being attached to the steering gear. You need to remove the screws from the floor mounting plates in order to lower the steering column. It might be best to remove the two nuts and lock washers from the flexible coupling and pull the steering column straight back and remove it from the car in order to adjust the ignition switch.
You should NEVER just let the column just hang from the lower mounts. It could damage the lower steering column bearings.
I would highly recommend going to http://www.corvettefaq.com/listing.asp?group=7 and downloading Paper #2 on tilt & telescoping column repair -- it explains how to drop your column. It think it is written by Jim Shea. I dropped mine last night ('72) to troubleshoot a turn signal problem and it was pretty easy with those instructions. The only thing it didn't mention was that there is a plastic cover holding in some insulation that has to be removed to get to the nuts on the floor pan. That plastic cover is held in place with some rubber fateners that go through the firewall and I broke all of them trying to get them out....
Doesnt that connector attach to the brake proportioning valve?
That's what it looks like to me as well. You didn't mention it but be careful of the "column cover" that screws to the bottom of the dash. Hate for you to tear this while putting in the switch.
My brother-in-law came to my rescue again and lower the steering column and changed the ignition switch but the vette did not fire up. We are at a total loss with this constant electrical problem. I dont' know what a proportioning valve is and I'm sure my brother-in-law does and I will tell him about your suggestion. Too bad he left before I read this. With all the parts of the HEI distributor replaced, except for the pick up coil, we will probably replace this next or a completely new distributor. It's been another disappointing week end and we can't stop thinking the problem must be something simple but maybe not.
Did you see if you have 12 volts at the BATT wire going into the dist? If not try this, run a wire from the + side of the battery directly to the terminal marked BATT on the distributor. Turn the motor over with the key like you normally would do to start the car. If it starts then the pronlem is with the electrica coming into the distrib. If it still does not start then something in the distrib is the problem. Keep in mind, to turn the car off you will have to unhook the temporary wire you ran. Also please list the "process of elimination steps you went through, this will help us diagnose what's going on.
Here's another picture of the mysterious wire and plug.
This plug slips over a switch in the middle of your brake proportioning valve. When pressure on one side is greater than the other, typically due to a leak, a valve inside slides from one side to the other and the switch activates, illuminating the BRAKE light in your instrument cluster.
Sometime after doing brake work this switch will get out of position and turn the light on. It can be a bit of a pain to get it to go out so sometimes folks just disconnect it. If you reconnect it and the BRAKE light comes on that's probably why you found it disconnected.
The proceedures to extinguish the light are not that difficult and are in most of the better shop manuals. Let us know what you find when you reconnect it.