How do remove the bolt that holds the arm on to the frame ? Do I hammer it out ?

 

If it is rusted in you will need a sawzall to remove. There is another thread on this very same subject.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...195&forum_id=3

 

From what I've heard here and elsewhere, it's not so much a do-it-yourself job unless you have a lot of tools/experience/patience. Ranks right up there along side the rear wheel bearing replacement. But I'm all ears because I'll need to tend to these in the near future.

 

It's not difficult, but patience is key. Especially if they've never been out before. I just pulled mine two months ago and I'm in the middle of reconditioning them right now. If they've been in there long enough, the pivot bolt at the front of the arm will rust and sieze to the inner bushing sleeve, making it impossible to remove. Hence the need for a sawzall. One of mine came out after an hour of working on it, and the other required 4 sawzall blades. Use the long ones. You would need to cut the bolt on both sides of the trailing arm, and only after you've fought the toe-in adjusting shims out of the way. While some people have used a torch to cut the bolt out, this is really too tight of a space to have a flame.

Of course, the shock mount is also a potential problem, as it can also sieze in the shock bushing sleeve and spindle support. As referenced in the above mentioned thread, Van Steel (and others) sells a tool to thread on the end of the mount so that you can beat the crap out of it to remove it. You still risk damaging the mount and having to buy a new one, but mine came out OK.

It really isn't difficult, but you should be somewhat mechanically inclined and ready to set aside several hours just to get the arms out. Here are what they look like completely disassembled but not reconditioned.


The bushings were completely shot and the drivers side arm is bent in about one inch from end to end (if you look close you can see the bend up toward the front of the top arm). Bubba decided that the simplest way to align the rear end after the hit that bent the arm was to bend the strut rods. Now it's going to be fixed right.

Steve

 

It varies from car to car. I live in Pa, aka salt region, and the car has seen a couple of winters. I was able to tap them out. If the bolt turns, then there is a chance it will come out without using a sawzall. Even if it does come out without cutting it, there is not a lot of room in there to work it out.

 

Thanks I plan on trying to remove them tomorrow I soaked them tonight with Nuts Off.

 

Ouch, that sounds painful!

 

You'll very likely replace these bolts and rusted shims anyway... cut the bolt next to the TA, left and right... be careful, the TA will fall (ask me how I know)...

The problem is not getting the nut off, the bolt is rusted to the inner sleeve that is inside the bushing. Even if you can turn the bolt, it will not come out... maybe you cannot get the alignment shims out, just take the saw and cut through them... will be replaced anyway...

Next potential problem area is the lower shock mount...

 

As mentioned above: strut rods.... try everything to safe the shock mounts, these are expensive. You might want to install adjustable strut rods. Beating on the shock mount can damage the mount and possibly the wheel bearing housing that it is mounted to... very expensive ...

I just cut the strut rod and then burned the bushing. Then I cut the inner sleeve off the shock mount and voila... it came out and was was in re-useable condition (one of the two, I beat the first one to death)

 

That's a start. The big thing will be 'do the bolts move'. I can only speak for me and my car. I was able to turn the nuts loose without any problem. I left the nuts loose but still on the bolts so I wouldn't damage the threads. I was able to take a punch an knock the bolt the out until the nut was against the frame. I then sprayed the bolt from the head end and knocked in back in. Then resprayed it and knocked it the other direction.. Repeated this a couple of times working the penatraing oil as much as possible. The problem I had is that I could not use a punch to drive the bolt out fully becauce the punch was at an angle due to the rear quarter panel/fender lip. I was able to drive the bolt about 3/4" before the punch was at an angle where I couldn't hit it with out the punch hit the quarter panel. I then just used the rachet on the bolt and pulled on it while turning it (got to keep the socket cockeyed so it doesn't just come off).
If the bolt is rusted to the inner bushing, then cutting the bolt may be the only option.

 

I give up I'm going to have to cut them , I can't get the bolts out. I tried most of the day.