Upper ball joint replacement
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Upper ball joint replacement
I have never replaced a ball joint. My car needs 'em. I would like to do the work myself. Special tools needed? Anybody give me some direction on the correct procedure? Thanks in advance for your help!
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
Not that hard, just time consuming. I've done two complete front ends, and it took me about 12 hours. Goo therapy if you feel the need to beat the crap out of something, because you'll have to. The hardest part is getting the old rivets out from the upper ball joints (hence the beatings). Chilton's or one of those books will walk you through it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
Now that I've done it, its not that big of a deal. The first time is always the toughest. You will need your basic hand tools; wrenches and rachet. I used a pickle fork for one side to seperate the ball joint. That worked but it took too long and too many wacks with the hand sledge. Got a tie rod puller and the other side was much easier. The coil spring has to have the tension relieved. Some members do it one way and othesr just use a floor jack. Just keep in mind that there is some tension on the spring and it can be dangerous if it let loose without slowly releasing it.
From my understanding the upper ball joint does not wear as fast as the lower ball joint. If I were replacing the uppers, it be wise to see how good the lower ones are. The factory used rivets when installing them to the control arms. If the ball joints have been replace, chances are the installer used nuts and bolts when reassembling them.
Not a bad time to see how the control arm bushings are. If they're decent, let alone. Just another can of worms.
From my understanding the upper ball joint does not wear as fast as the lower ball joint. If I were replacing the uppers, it be wise to see how good the lower ones are. The factory used rivets when installing them to the control arms. If the ball joints have been replace, chances are the installer used nuts and bolts when reassembling them.
Not a bad time to see how the control arm bushings are. If they're decent, let alone. Just another can of worms.
Last edited by mandm1200; Oct 4, 2005 at 11:54 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
You don't touch the spring doing uppers. After using the spring to break the taper you just put a jack under the lower A arm and it holds the spring and car for you.
Drill out the rivits and forget the spring.
Drill out the rivits and forget the spring.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 43
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Originally Posted by GDaina
You sure your uppers need replacing? They hardly ever wear out...all the wear and tear is no the lowers.
Grease is coming out of the boot, (not the relief hole), so I figure it needs replaced.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
Maybe you have a ripped boot. The joints are checked for play under load. Like the others said you don't need to remove the spring to do the uppers only the lowers. The lowers wear out in 1/2 life span of the uppers. I'd look it over good to see if that's a problem or not.
Gary
Edit: You are correct. the lower jopints can also be installed in the car without removing the spring. I should know because I've done them that way
The spring only needs to be removed for bushing changes.
Gary
Edit: You are correct. the lower jopints can also be installed in the car without removing the spring. I should know because I've done them that way
The spring only needs to be removed for bushing changes.
Last edited by gtr1999; Oct 7, 2005 at 07:41 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,345
Likes: 3
I've changed lower ball joints on my '69 and did not remove the springs. Chained them for safety, but did not remove them.
Also when replacing riveted ball joints, a pencil grinder with a parting wheel or carbide rotary file makes it a much easier job and there is no risk of elongating the rivet holes.
Also when replacing riveted ball joints, a pencil grinder with a parting wheel or carbide rotary file makes it a much easier job and there is no risk of elongating the rivet holes.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
The springs do not have to be removed but taking off the steering knuckle does mean the spring force has to be aknowledged. I didn't see where anyone said the spring has to come out. A little common sense goes a long way.
If grease is coming out, then it may be a bad boot. It takes almost as much work to repalace the boot as it does to change the ball joint.
If grease is coming out, then it may be a bad boot. It takes almost as much work to repalace the boot as it does to change the ball joint.