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My dad and I are going around in circles about Dynamat. He keeps telling me that the Dynamat will work as a heat insulator, and is the best stuff out there to use on the interior of the car. I was under the impression that the stuff isn't that great for it, but it's killer for sound deadening.
i didn't use dynamat i used this stuff http://www.insulation4less.com/highr_FfmF.asp
it made a huge diffence on road noise and engine noise, i also used it under the cockpit. as for heat i can't tell, i have sidepipes so i never had the heat problem but i'm gonna insulate my attic w/it
Last edited by rosslato; Oct 6, 2005 at 10:31 AM.
Reason: to add
You got it, dynamat is made for sound deadening, though it does stop some radiant heat, would be best to through down a layer of reflectex (looks like bubble shipping padding with metal on either side) that you can pickup at home depot or lowes, this is made for reflecting heat. If you are looking for maximum heat decrease in your car, best to stop the heat from getting into your car. Plug all holes in firewall, make sure your foam transmission collar is in place, make sure lower boot is on shifter, think about adding shielding to underside of cab, put shutoff valves in hot water to heater core, and seal up ac and fresh air stuff. Im sure others will chime in with some great advice.
i am an anti heat freak. super freak actually. miami temps are above 90 for 50% of the time. i used two bulk boxs of dynamat on my 82. **** compulsive coverage of the entire interior. then, four or five rolls of 1/4" foam with aluminum foil. margins covered with ac duct metal tape. double layers of both dynamat and foam at the tranny tunel and firewall. then, several rolls of hot water heater insulation blanket from home depot. the foam stuff is ac duct insulation available at hd online. then, 1/4 inch of fiberglass mat, then new carpet.. in all close to 3/4" of stuff probably 75 pounds and probably close to 50 hours of actual work time. i run sidepipes that i wrapped with 85 feet of header wrap. more dynamat under the car covering the front of the box where your feet are and over the gas tank area. like any performance exercise, its not the individual components, but how they work together. this was my 3rd attempt to make a c3 cold and quiet. overkill paid off. i saved some dynamat for inside the doors but dont wnat to go there until i have to. i was a bit bummed about the weight addition which helped me justify shedding the spare tire and carrier.
You got it, dynamat is made for sound deadening, though it does stop some radiant heat, would be best to through down a layer of reflectex (looks like bubble shipping padding with metal on either side) that you can pickup at home depot or lowes, this is made for reflecting heat. If you are looking for maximum heat decrease in your car, best to stop the heat from getting into your car. Plug all holes in firewall, make sure your foam transmission collar is in place, make sure lower boot is on shifter, think about adding shielding to underside of cab, put shutoff valves in hot water to heater core, and seal up ac and fresh air stuff. Im sure others will chime in with some great advice.
David
Well, I've been reading the anti-heat threads, so I've been picking up on the shut-off valves, plugging the firewall holes, etc. That all makes sense.
There's a dual purpose behind this, though; both of our classic cars (The '74 C3 and our '67 Jaguar) suffer from high heat in the cabin, so we're going to throw insulation up against the firewall for sure. The problem is that my dad swears that there's nothing better to kill the heat in the cabin than Dynamat. I believe it'll help a little, but it doesn't seem to be as efficient as reflectex for heat.
I'll have to talk to him about it a bit more, try to convince him of it.
Dynamat is a rubberized asphault-type product in most of its forms. There are a few combined acoustic/thermal insulating offerings from them, but not the stuff we are using.
Try this as a practical demonstration. Take a sheet of aluminum foil and lay it directly on the surface a black asphault parking lot on a clear, sunny day. Now, kneel down and hold you hand firmly against the foil. Hot, huh? This is essentially the same as Dynamat Xtreme.
Now, get a small, thin sheet of bubble wrap, fiberglass insulation, or styrofoam and do the same thing. Not hot, is it? This is essentially the same as Reflectix, Frost King, Jute, etc.
Next to vacuum, air is the best insulator. Dynamat contains no air in most of the available forms...
Here's a thread I made recently when I did my whole interior with dynamat. A warning is that if you plan on doing the whole car it took two bulk packages at about 180 bucks each and many hours to get it all in. But I did every square inch of the car, up underneath the storage area, battery compartments, everything. For heat I would strongly recommend Reflectix... it was recommended to me by a forum member and I put it down over the dynamat under my seat and on the floor boards. NOT A HINT OF HEAT ANYMORE. And the stuff is really cheap and much faster to put down then dynamat. You can get it at Lowes or Home depot. Just get some 3M super 77 general adhesive to put it down. Another problem I ran into after having such thick layers of reflectix/dynamat is i'm having a hard time getting my console to fit back in. So keep that in mind. For some reason the pics arent showing up for me currently on my old thread(i think photobucket might be currently down) but here it is... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2&forum_id=119
also...you might want to consider purchasing some of the spray version dynamat to do the back area...in retrospect that would have been much easier. One day i'm going to use the spray to do the inside of the doors. And by the way....my car sounds like a lexus interior sounds now
That stuff looks pretty good. Do I read that table right. The thermal tests were at 700 c for 22hrs??? That's hot. It don't think that's right. It's plastic isn't it? Still, might work good.
Reflectix from Lowes, real cheap, lays down super easy and works great.
Use the metal sealing tape on the seams. You can even put down 2 layers if you want, it's only about 1/8" thick. Worked great for me.
Dynamat is a rubberized asphault-type product in most of its forms. There are a few combined acoustic/thermal insulating offerings from them, but not the stuff we are using.
Try this as a practical demonstration. Take a sheet of aluminum foil and lay it directly on the surface a black asphault parking lot on a clear, sunny day. Now, kneel down and hold you hand firmly against the foil. Hot, huh? This is essentially the same as Dynamat Xtreme.
Now, get a small, thin sheet of bubble wrap, fiberglass insulation, or styrofoam and do the same thing. Not hot, is it? This is essentially the same as Reflectix, Frost King, Jute, etc.
Next to vacuum, air is the best insulator. Dynamat contains no air in most of the available forms...
Yeah, I'd learned that back in my high school physics and chemistry classes, to insulate with air. That's why those foam ice chests are efficient at keeping things cold; they're mostly open cell.
Thanks for telling me about Dynamat being made with an asphalt layer; that helps in how we're going to line the interior of our classic cars.
That stuff looks pretty good. Do I read that table right. The thermal tests were at 700 c for 22hrs??? That's hot. It don't think that's right. It's plastic isn't it? Still, might work good.
That stuff looks pretty good. Do I read that table right. The thermal tests were at 700 c for 22hrs??? That's hot. It don't think that's right. It's plastic isn't it? Still, might work good.
yeah, it has the plastic bubbles in between the foil,1/8" thick, quite similar to reflectix. easy to work with, used aluminum tape between the seams and 3M adhesive for stickage. made big diff in sound
dynamat is made for sound deadening, though it does stop some radiant heat, would be best to through down a layer of reflectex (looks like bubble shipping padding with metal on either side) that you can pickup at home depot or lowes,
David
i am an anti heat freak. super freak actually. miami temps are above 90 for 50% of the time. i used two bulk boxs of dynamat on my 82. **** compulsive coverage of the entire interior. then, four or five rolls of 1/4" foam with aluminum foil. margins covered with ac duct metal tape. double layers of both dynamat and foam at the tranny tunel and firewall. then, several rolls of hot water heater insulation blanket from home depot. the foam stuff is ac duct insulation available at hd online. then, 1/4 inch of fiberglass mat, then new carpet.. in all close to 3/4" of stuff probably 75 pounds and probably close to 50 hours of actual work time. i run sidepipes that i wrapped with 85 feet of header wrap. more dynamat under the car covering the front of the box where your feet are and over the gas tank area. like any performance exercise, its not the individual components, but how they work together. this was my 3rd attempt to make a c3 cold and quiet. overkill paid off. i saved some dynamat for inside the doors but dont wnat to go there until i have to. i was a bit bummed about the weight addition which helped me justify shedding the spare tire and carrier.
I just rolled up the windows except for a small crack in the drivers side window and filled the car with "Great Stuff"
Drop the dynamatt and use this product called b-quiet ultimate. Check out the www.b-quiet.com its cheaper than dynamatt and works just as good. Use the reflectix for heat and b-quiet for sound.
I just rolled up the windows except for a small crack in the drivers side window and filled the car with "Great Stuff"
Think of all of the positives if you go this way....great heat shielding, virtually no road or engine noise, lightweight, can get in there after with a spoon and carve yourself a custom seat, no need for airbags (as 90% of the interior would be foam), would probably give the car some more structual integrity....ahh the possibilites.
if "cost" is not that much of a concern, consider Damplifier Pro.
"Damplifier PRO was overbuilt to over perform. At 80 mils thick with a heat shield 4 mils thick, it is the thickest, strongest constraint layer mat on the market."
heat rated to 500 degrees
a C5 owner sent me some left overs and I was very impressed with its density - but still very thin and workable.
Is not asphalt based; so no vapor concerns.