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Can someone discuss the operation and purpose of the EGR valve and the associated switch; all I know is I think it activates when the motor reaches operating temp. I think a bad EGR may be the source of slight to moderate pinging after getting the motor very warm. What is accomplished when the valve activates?
As you probably are aware EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation. And basically all it does is allow exhaust gas into the intake manifold under certian warm operating conditions to cool combustion chamber temps.
If the egr is not opening it could cause pinging. A simple way to test the EGR is at idle put a vacuum pump on the vacuum connection and pump away. If it is opening properly the car will stall because the inert CO2 of the exhaust gas is entering the cylinders when it shouldn't.
People run without EGR valves all the tiem without any problems, but you may have to switch to a higher octane fuel. What are you currently running?
I'musing 93 at the pump, but you are on to something, cause when I added some 104 it lessened the issue.
I have an EGR on the way; I would just like to get back to a motor like in the 60's without as much BS!
As you probably are aware EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation. And basically all it does is allow exhaust gas into the intake manifold under certian warm operating conditions to cool combustion chamber temps.
If the egr is not opening it could cause pinging. A simple way to test the EGR is at idle put a vacuum pump on the vacuum connection and pump away. If it is opening properly the car will stall because the inert CO2 of the exhaust gas is entering the cylinders when it shouldn't.
People run without EGR valves all the tiem without any problems, but you may have to switch to a higher octane fuel. What are you currently running?
Let me know if I'm way off base.
You are close. One other thing to add is that egr only operates at part throttle if you have an ecm. If your car is pre computer control, egr probably operates all of the time I'm not sure on those. On an ecm car, the egr turns on with a warm engine under light load conditions. It cools the combustion chambers, and reduces nox emissions. What is neat is that it allows the use of lower octane fuels with high compression engines on the street. Of course if you take it to the track, you want to run some high octane race gas so the ecm won't see knocks and pull timing.
I believe that this car should not be ecm controlled, at least my 80 isn't- unless I'm totally messed- you are right that it will be seeing vacuum at all times unless it is running off ported vacuum, I have no idea what it is supposed to be running on, as far as vacuum is concerned.
anthing 73 or later should have an egr valve. that said, my 76 does not. someone swapped out the intake and carb at some time now no egr. It runs fine. more like a 60's engine except for the comp ratio.
That's what I would like to do.....is it a pipe thread type plug?
There seems to be some other "plumbing" associated with it.
my egr had a plate between the valve and intake on my old intake. I just added a thin piece of stainless between the manifold and plate and bolted it on...any type of cover bolted on will work...
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by Avette4me
take it off and block the hole...
Bad idea and poor advice. EGR helps emissions at no cost to you or your engine. On the plus side, you have cooler combustion chamber temps and less propensity to ping. On the minus side, you have the 'objection' to conform to smog laws. That's all. Like a PCV valve, an EGR hurts nothing but only helps you.
You are close. One other thing to add is that egr only operates at part throttle if you have an ecm. If your car is pre computer control, egr probably operates all of the time I'm not sure on those. On an ecm car, the egr turns on with a warm engine under light load conditions. It cools the combustion chambers, and reduces nox emissions. What is neat is that it allows the use of lower octane fuels with high compression engines on the street. Of course if you take it to the track, you want to run some high octane race gas so the ecm won't see knocks and pull timing.
On earlier cars that have no computer the operation of the EGR system was taken care of by vacuum and temperature switches and hoses. EGR only functions at cruising speeds after the engine is warmer up if the system is working properly. As long as the system is functioning properly you won't even know when it is on. The carburetors were tuned to run with EGR. Some who don't understand the system and are unable to repair it have removed them. There is really no good reason to take it off.
If the EGR is operating properly there is no good reason to remove it unless you want to race. For street performance leave it in and 93 octane fuel should be ok if your distributor and base timing are setup properly.
I read you have a new EGR coming, good, this will give you a chance to make sure the openings in the intake manifold are clean when you replace the old EGR.
Also make sure the vac hose is connected to the proper place. Otherwise the EGR may get vac at the wrong time and open when it should not.
Like someone already said if it is setup properly you will not know the EGR is working except for no knocking and you can run lower octane fuel and less bad stuff coming out of the exhaust, all good things.
If you push in on the diaphram of the EGR and it stays in and you blow into the stem where the vaccuum hose connects to it and the diaphram returns to orig. position does that mean it's working properly?
As you probably are aware EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation. And basically all it does is allow exhaust gas into the intake manifold under certian warm operating conditions to cool combustion chamber temps.
If the egr is not opening it could cause pinging. A simple way to test the EGR is at idle put a vacuum pump on the vacuum connection and pump away. If it is opening properly the car will stall because the inert CO2 of the exhaust gas is entering the cylinders when it shouldn't.
People run without EGR valves all the tiem without any problems, but you may have to switch to a higher octane fuel. What are you currently running?
Let me know if I'm way off base.
I did this but engine never died, it kept running normally. What next?
If you push in on the diaphram of the EGR and it stays in and you blow into the stem where the vaccuum hose connects to it and the diaphram returns to orig. position does that mean it's working properly?
Diaphram should return to closed position all by itself. Held open with vac only. I think the EGR value you just described is broken.
Pull off the old EGR valve and clean out the cloged up ports on the intake manifold.
Did that a few months ago, got it cleaned up good pushed in the diapham again and it stays until I blow into the vaccuum connector. I guess I'll be stopping by the parts store.