control valve help...
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
control valve help...
I am in the process of a front end rebuild on my '69 and while at it, I decided to replace the p.s. control valve and also the hydralic cylinder. My problem is that the assembly manual shows a threaded end on the arm that the valve attaches to, but all the movement I get is about
1 1/2" and then it stops sharply. Does the valve simple unsrew off of the arm or am I overlooking something??? Thanks for any help-
1 1/2" and then it stops sharply. Does the valve simple unsrew off of the arm or am I overlooking something??? Thanks for any help-
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
The control valve just unscrews off the end of the center link. There is a through bolt that you put on last after screwing the control valve on the drag link or center link
To remove the old valve just remove the through bolt with a 9/16's wrench and unscrew the valve. Nothing will stop it.
If yours just about unscrews and then jams something is wrong with the threads??? Hard to imagine if it screws nearly all the way then stops.
The through bolt must be totally removed from the control valve.
To remove the old valve just remove the through bolt with a 9/16's wrench and unscrew the valve. Nothing will stop it.
If yours just about unscrews and then jams something is wrong with the threads??? Hard to imagine if it screws nearly all the way then stops.
The through bolt must be totally removed from the control valve.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,154
Likes: 3,959
From: Connecticut, USA
Norval may I add one thing I found working on my Canadian shipped 75.
This car had some rust issues and I thought the removal of the control valve would have been easy enough. Well After PB blaster on the threads and sure rust wasn;t an issue with it I tried to remove the damm thing. There was nothing hold it on, no pinch bolt, hoses,pitman arm. I had to use a 4' extension on a pipe wrench to get that sucker off. The factory installed the valve and bottomed it out on the threads, then socked home the pinch bolt and rolled the threads. Looking at the AIM there was supposed to be approx .100 gap between the end of the valve and center link- not on this car. After I got it off I pulled the center link out and had to lap the threads with AAA lapping compound to get it to fit. Took about 5 hours to do this 30 minute job! Ha you just have to love these cars!
I hope this isn't the case,it was the first one for me, but look it over good. Maybe the guy on the line figured it was heading North so he didn't care or know?
Gary
This car had some rust issues and I thought the removal of the control valve would have been easy enough. Well After PB blaster on the threads and sure rust wasn;t an issue with it I tried to remove the damm thing. There was nothing hold it on, no pinch bolt, hoses,pitman arm. I had to use a 4' extension on a pipe wrench to get that sucker off. The factory installed the valve and bottomed it out on the threads, then socked home the pinch bolt and rolled the threads. Looking at the AIM there was supposed to be approx .100 gap between the end of the valve and center link- not on this car. After I got it off I pulled the center link out and had to lap the threads with AAA lapping compound to get it to fit. Took about 5 hours to do this 30 minute job! Ha you just have to love these cars!
I hope this isn't the case,it was the first one for me, but look it over good. Maybe the guy on the line figured it was heading North so he didn't care or know?
Gary
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
got it!
What I did was totally remove the locking bolt and through the holes where the the bolt was, insert a large punch looking tool that I had in the toolbox. This gave a great gripping point and with the relay arm in the vise I was able to power-through unsrewing the valve...only thing is the threads are just about flatened out..don't understand why that happened, but that is the reason why it was so stubborn coming off. I'll take the relay rod to a machine shop today and see if it can be salvaged...I hope. Thanks for the replies!!!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by RUSSINFL
What I did was totally remove the locking bolt and through the holes where the the bolt was, insert a large punch looking tool that I had in the toolbox. This gave a great gripping point and with the relay arm in the vise I was able to power-through unsrewing the valve...only thing is the threads are just about flatened out..don't understand why that happened, but that is the reason why it was so stubborn coming off. I'll take the relay rod to a machine shop today and see if it can be salvaged...I hope. Thanks for the replies!!!
You could have flattened out your own threads. The punch would have pushed on the thread all the way off.
Mine is a Canadian car but never really saw any winter driving.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
You put a large punch in the hole ?
You could have flattened out your own threads. The punch would have pushed on the thread all the way off....
You could have flattened out your own threads. The punch would have pushed on the thread all the way off....
Seen it damaged this way many times by inexperience.
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