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Windshield frame repairs(pics)

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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:21 AM
  #1  
ltlevil's Avatar
ltlevil
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Burning Brakes
 
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From: Des Allemands LA
Default Windshield frame repairs(pics)

After removing my broken windshield I noticed a couple of areas that were rusted pretty bad
(holes) as well as some significant pitting. I cut out the rusted areas, welded a piece
of flat bar in these
places then fiberglassed over the repaired spots. Once the glass dried I put a thin coat
of bondo across the
entire frame for a good smooth sealing surface. Only took a couple of hours to complete.
Let me know what you think and if any one needs the details for there project let
me know and I can tell you exactly what I did. I put big pictures of the before and
after for clarity. I would recommend "stitching" the weld and not welding everything
at once. The metal is pretty thin and I didn't want to chance distorting it from
the heat.


This shows the worst areas, also note the pitting.


This was after welding and fiberglass was done.


This was after the bondo and a couple coats of rustoleum.

I should also note I used a power wire wheel to remove as much rust as I could see,
sandblasting would be better but the motor was in the car when I did this.
Let me know what you think.

ltlevil
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:32 AM
  #2  
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Retro78
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From: Ontario
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Nice job. I am sure it is very solid but not sure about the fiberglass and bondo. I had todo the same thing when replacing my glass but just worked the metal until fairly flat. The glass adhesive they use is thick like caulking...no need for a perfectly flat surface...only solid.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:43 AM
  #3  
ltlevil's Avatar
ltlevil
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From: Des Allemands LA
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Originally Posted by carguy4sure
Nice job. I am sure it is very solid but not sure about the fiberglass and bondo. I had todo the same thing when replacing my glass but just worked the metal until fairly flat. The glass adhesive they use is thick like caulking...no need for a perfectly flat surface...only solid.
I wasn't initially going to put it but the pits bothered me that they may be able to hold water. That really shouldn't matter because evrything is painted and shouldn't rust now, at least from the outside. I just put enough to make sure everything was flat again, by time it was sanded down it was ~.015 thick with most areas being back to bare metal. I left just enough to fill in the pits. BTW-I think I have told you before, but that is one sweet ride you got! Hopefully one day mine will look that good.

ltlevil
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:18 PM
  #4  
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Retro78
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From: Ontario
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ltlevil...thanks for the compliment!

You are certainly putting a lot of care and attention to detail into your ride. Replacing my windshield was one of the best things I did from a price-value perspective. It still surprises me how cheap it is to have new glass supplied and installed at your home. I did the same as you...pulled the glass on my own so that I could inspect, repair and clean things up. But I did not go to the extent that you did...nice work. Looks like you already had a very solid windshield frame.

From the pics it appears that you have removed most of the interior. Are you also doing the interior?
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:24 PM
  #5  
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cptkirk32
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From: Newport News VA
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ltlevil,
Did you take my project car?? I have the same rust hole where you do! Nice job on the weld, and repair. I'm going to do the same thing but I'll be able to sand blast since my car is totaly gutted.
SGT Kirk
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:40 PM
  #6  
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Yellow73SB
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St. Jude Donor '07
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You could have bought replacement pieces from paragon.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:45 PM
  #7  
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comp
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From: eville in
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looks good to me
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 08:30 PM
  #8  
ltlevil's Avatar
ltlevil
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Burning Brakes
 
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From: Des Allemands LA
Default

Originally Posted by yellow73sb
You could have bought replacement pieces from paragon.
Yes but I have a total of about 12-14 dollars in this repair and I feel better
about it than ordering a replacement part that may or may not fit. The replacement
parts may be the way to go for some, I felt in my situation was easier to just fix
what I had.

Originally Posted by carguy4sure
ltlevil...thanks for the compliment!


From the pics it appears that you have removed most of the interior. Are you also doing the interior?
Yep, I just about have the dash finished, thank God. I have one more digital
gauge to install but haven't decided what gauge, probably trans temp. I also put
in aftermarket speedo and tach. Have new carpet to install, and have finished
with glasssing the floor boards and putting the heat barrier stuff in. I'm more concerned
with the functionability of things on the car, I know it will never be a show car
but I would like it to be presentable. Here's apic of the gauges before the final
assembly of the dash.



Kirk you can but the replacement pieces as mentioned above but it really is a pretty simple fix.
Thanks
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 09:40 PM
  #9  
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From: North Easton Mass
Default

You did a nice job of repairing the hole in the windshield frame. I don't want to rain on the parade, but if you really want to keep the frame from rusing again :

Strip it down to the bare metal again.
Coat it with POR-15, Rust Bullet or Rust Encapsulator.
Skip the Bondo.
Mount the new windshield.

I wouldn't want Bondo between the glass and the metal since Bondo can break off in pieces if it's too thick. The windhield adds some structural strength to the birdcage, however slight, so it should be bonded as firmly as possible.

There may be some restoration experts here who would disagree or offer alternate solutions, but I don't think I'm too far off base.

Rick B.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 10:07 PM
  #10  
ltlevil's Avatar
ltlevil
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Burning Brakes
 
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From: Des Allemands LA
Default

Originally Posted by Blair Winch Project
You did a nice job of repairing the hole in the windshield frame. I don't want to rain on the parade, but if you really want to keep the frame from rusing again :

Strip it down to the bare metal again.
Coat it with POR-15, Rust Bullet or Rust Encapsulator.
Skip the Bondo.
Mount the new windshield.

I wouldn't want Bondo between the glass and the metal since Bondo can break off in pieces if it's too thick. The windhield adds some structural strength to the birdcage, however slight, so it should be bonded as firmly as possible.

There may be some restoration experts here who would disagree or offer alternate solutions, but I don't think I'm too far off base.

Rick B.
If it was an 1/8"(.125) thick I may be concerned, however what was left of the bondo was ~.015" thick, as I noted above. There is plenty of metal contact for the epoxy to hold to so I am not concerned with the bondo. As far as it not rusting again, I don't care if you use POR, rust encapsulator or OSPHO (which actually changes the chemical compostion of the rust from ferrous oxide to ferric oxide) if you can't get to both sides you're peeing up a rope it will rust again. This is why I stated it wouldn't rust from the outside. The windshield frame is made of a "box" type structure so therefore getting inside to stop the rust was next to impossible. I understand what you're saying and I realize there are a few different ways to do this, but this was best for my situation.

thanks,
Steve
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