Help! Manual 2 Power Brake Upgrade
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2005
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Help! Manual 2 Power Brake Upgrade
undefinedundefinedAny help/input would be greatly appreciated. I am thinking about upgrading my 73 coupe to power brakes. Before I do so I want to make sure I know what I'm getting into. I know I have to cut a new hole in the firewall for the power boost, but I'm a little more concerned about a few other things like: How about the studs on the power boost lining up with the holes in the firewall? How about access to the top two studs on the boost in order to tighten them? How about the push rod on the boost lining up with the brake pedal? Do I have to move my current brake switch, if so where do I get the new brake switch bracket? These are a few of my concerns. Hopefully someone out there has been through this before and can share their experience. One last thing. How about vacuum? This car has an engine with a hotter cam along with a bunch of other goodies. Will I be able to get enough vacuum to the booster.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I would recomend a www.hydroboost.com This is a great setup and does not use vacuum. It uses the hyd pressure from the power steering pump. A much better setup than the vacuum cannister and it is smaller. Also you do not have to modify the firewall in any way. I tried to go the power booster years ago and scraped the idea. I went with the hydrobbost and it is a simple addition and much better brakes.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,198
Likes: 2
From: Eastern Connecticut
I converted two cars to power brakes. One was a 66 cutlass and the other a 68 firebird. Corvettes may be different. On both of them the four studs were already there for the booster, the pedal mount attaches to the firewall with them. Two were also used for the manual master cylinder, the others just had nuts on them, I think. The push rod has to be moved to a different location on the pedal, both cars had that hole already drilled a little lower on the pedal shaft. The length of the pushrod was a problem on the firebird, but I may have gotten the wrong booster. The pedal stop had to be lowered on the cutlass, there was a tapped hole already in the pedal mount for a bolt and nut as an adjustable stop. The brake switch wasn't a problem, it stays in the same place or the hole is there for the new location, I forget. You absolutely have to use a power master cylinder! Your best bet is to buy a "loaded" booster from NAPA or MP brakes, it comes with the correct master cylinder. Because there is a check valve at the booster, there should be enough vacuum with most cams, it will build up while cruising, but if not get a reserve can from Summit or Jegs. Joe
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Hydroboost is the answer. I will eventually remove my power booster and install hydroboost!
Bernie
The hydroboost is a drop in other then linkage change/shortening.
Around here a used unit is $50 complete with lines.
No way a vacuum unit can touch one.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,812
Likes: 4
From: Gig Harbor Wa
If you don't have power steering, then vacuum is your only option.
The holes for the booster are already in the firewall. You do have to drill a new hole for the pushrod. The hole in the pedal for the pushrod is also already there.
The manual master is held in place by carriage bolts in the firewall. There is a little metal tab that holds the bolts in place and it needs to be bent to remove them. Getting to the upper nuts for the booster is relatively easy, with the dash removed. They can, however, be reached with the dash in place, but be prepared with a full arsenal of swear words.
You also need a power master cylinder to mate with that power booster.
The holes for the booster are already in the firewall. You do have to drill a new hole for the pushrod. The hole in the pedal for the pushrod is also already there.
The manual master is held in place by carriage bolts in the firewall. There is a little metal tab that holds the bolts in place and it needs to be bent to remove them. Getting to the upper nuts for the booster is relatively easy, with the dash removed. They can, however, be reached with the dash in place, but be prepared with a full arsenal of swear words.
You also need a power master cylinder to mate with that power booster.
