I'm about to tighten the nuts on the studs of the rocker arms.
The SBC rebuild book says that the #6 cylinder lifters "should be raised " when the engine is at TDC and that the #1 lifters are "on the base circle" at TDC. My #6 lifters do not look raised in these pics. I thought that I was at TDC before I installed the heads (balancer and all) but is it possible that I am not on the compression stroke here?

Here is a pic of the #6 lifters- the pair on the left:
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...cat/500/page/1

Here is a pic of the #1 lifters:
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...cat/500/page/1

Also how tight am I supposed to tighten the nuts on the studs of the rocker arms? The book says tighten them until they get hard to turn and then tighten 3 additional turns- Is this saying to had tighten them until they feel tight or tighten with a wrench until they feel tight , then 3 more turns?

 

Get another book that one is not very good. If the number one cylinder is indead at TDC and ready to fire the #6 cylinder will be in overlap and the lifters will not be on the base curcle but will be on the ramps somewhere. This is what they mean by "raised" and in the photo it looks like they are raised a little. Using his method it would be impossible to detect with the intake on.

The best way to determine if you are firing on #1 is to rotate the motor until the 0 degree mark in coming around and look at the #6 rockers/lifters and when the intake starts to close and the exhaust starts to open and when they are each about halfway ( equal ) you should be at 0 degrees.

 

The book also says not to rotate the engine more than twice (before ever being fired) as it can do damage to the camshaft. Do you think that it is ok to rotate the engine to get this right? Its got assembly lube all over it...

 

try these, there all pretty much the same, good luck

http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/drivetrain/valvlash.htm

http://www.iworkinmyunderwear.com/ki...dj-valves.html

http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.c...ment/index.asp

 

with the manifold off,you can see the lifters and it doesnt matter where you start as long as the rockers you are tightening are on the base circle. you tighten until there is no end play on the push rod ( up or down and starting to get hard to spin with your hand). then tighten 3/4 or 1 whole turn depending on who you ask

 

I make sure the lifter is on the back of the cam tighten the rocker nut .using a feeler gauge (even on hydrualic lifters) I tighten until ihave a tight .003 clearence and then go a half round down . This has worked for me for 30yrs.

 

yes i think it is ok to rotate the engine by hand to get this right....the real issue is cranking it and the after it initially starts...you need to get over 2000 rpm for 20 mins to break inthe cam.....you are using new lifters and springs matched to the cam correct? i don't like that book you have though get vizards book on building SBC it has a great section on valve adjustment. and i only go 1/2 turn after i feel resistance onthe pushrod

 

Takes ALL the guess work and subjective "feel" out of the up down or twist method.
Eddie

 

you know just for fun last time i adjusted the valves i discovered that from moving the pushrod up and down freely to not being able to spin it at all was only a 1/4 turn on my engine. from when the pushrod stopped going up and down to the very slightest spin resistance was 1/16-1/8 turn...

 

"I make sure the lifter is on the back of the cam"

Well, Unfortunately, I don't have a feeler gauge to use so how can you tell the the lifter is all the way on the back of the cam- is this when the lifter looks like it is all the way down?

Either way, one of the articles says this, "When #1 is at TDC, #6 will have both valves open slightly. If you move the balancer timing mark to each side of the timing pointer, you should see both lifters or rockers of #6 moving up and down".

My question is this : should both lifters of #6 be raised the exactly the same amount when you are at TDC for #1?
The reason that I ask is because the #6 lifters look ever so slightly different from each other when my mark is at 0 degrees on the mark..

 

You are getting too hung up here on perfection, move the crank back and forth and if the #6 rockers move then go to 0 degrees on the balancer and adjust number one cylinder.

 

Ok, I will let up on the perfection for now

I have 2 pressing questions that I need clarification on:

1) When I am finished adjusting the valves on say #1, there appears to be a noticeable difference in the amount of clearance between the edge of the rocker arms and the springs- for intake and exhaust on #1.
Keep in mind I am going by the "feel" method. Is this normal for the intake and exhuast to have different clearances?
Here is the Cam that I am using :
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/989...ic-Camshaft.htm

2) I marked the balancer in 90 degree increments and so I am rotating the balancer as I just the valves in the firing order- 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 . So adjust #1 , rotate bal. 90 deg, adjust#8 etc. ..I am supposed to rotating this CLOCKWISE correct?

 

yes and if you are using the crank bolt to rotate it if you went CCW it would loosen and not spin the engine....don't try and go backwards.


this is a Lars trick or at least my interpretation of it and i used this last time i did the valves.....mark the distributor base just in front of the spark towers.... ....i checked my first marking to make sure i was at TDC then pulled dist cap saw where it was in relation to the spark tower and then marked the rest accordingly...and when the rotor comes around you will be at TDC of the compression stroke for the firing order its really easy....

 

The easy way to set the valves is to put the #1 Cyl on TDC (both valves closed, piston at TDC). Use the zero timing mark on the balancer and verify piston at TDC by putting a screwdriver or wire through the # 1 spark plug hole ands verifying the piston is at the top of the stoke.

Adjustment procedure is as follows: Back off valve Rocker Arm nut until lash is felt in valve pushrod. Then tighjten adjusting nut until lash is removed. (Zero lash can be felt by rotating the push rod until it no longer turns freely, or moves up and down. When all free play has been removed, turn adjusting nut one additional turn (0.040") which centers the lifter in its adjustment range of 0.080".

Adjust the Intake and exhaust on #1 Cyl, Intake on #2, Exhaust on #3, Exhaust on #4, Intake on #5, Intake on #7, and Exhaust on #8.

Turn crankshaft one revolution until #6 piston is at TDC (Verify same as #1).

Adjust the following valves: #6 Intake and Exhaust, #2 Exhaust, # 3 Intake, #4 Intake, #5 Exhaust, #6 Intake, #7 Exhaust, #8 Intake.

Make a chart of the valves and circle each valve as it is adjusted. When you finish, all valves should be circled.

Chart should look like this:


Cylinder
Valve

1-I- E_2-I-E_3-I-E_4-I-E_5-I-E_6-I-E_7-I-E_8-I-E

There are as many ways to adjust valves as there are variations of small block Chevy's. This is the one described in the Factory Overhaul manuals.

There are theorys that adjusting the adjusting nut 1/2 turn instead of 1 turn will provide more RPM, but if you look at the numbers, adjusting above the middle of the lifter adjustment range just makes the loose side tolerance about 0.020 instead of about 0.040. Play it safe and do it like the design calls for.

Good Luck and keep the RPM's around 2000 for the first 20 Minutes.

 

Small Block Chevy Valve Adjustment Order 0 deg TDC, both number one valves shut.

Adjust the #1 exhaust valve
Adjust the #1 intake valve
Adjust the #3 exhaust valve
Adjust the #5 intake valve
Adjust the #7 intake valve
Adjust the #2 intake valve
Adjust the #4 exhaust valve
Adjust the #8 exhaust valve

Now rotate the engine 360 degrees. The mark on the balancer should be back at the TDC mark. Keep in mind that this is not the TDC where #1 would be firing! It's where #6 would fire.
Adjust the #3 intake valve
Adjust the #5 exhaust valve
Adjust the #7 exhaust valve
Adjust the #2 exhaust valve
Adjust the #4 intake valve
Adjust the #6 exhaust valve
Adjust the #6 intake valve
Adjust the #8 intake valve

Your DONE!

 

after all that which sounds perfectly good start your motor with valve covers off. get a set of valve adjustment clips so oil doesnt fly and losen each one till you hear a clatter. then slowly with 1/4 turn increments retighten back 3/4 of a turn on each valve. the motor will strain a bit thats why you do it SLOWLY.after youve done all the valves put the covers on and its a done deal....