so the Mity-vac sacrificed its life. 
(It was good while it lasted!)
Hand Vac
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Hand Vac
I bought a 72 a little while ago and the lights would not come up, so I bought a hand Vac. pump so I could test the different parts and fix those that needed fixing. Anyway on the package that it came in it shows that you can set it up to bleed the brakes and not have to get someone to pump the pedal..........any one know how this works? The picture shows how to hook it up but not how to use it!!!
Greg
Greg
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,124
Likes: 3,927
From: Connecticut, USA
I have the mity vac kit that also has the jar for bleeding. This is a great tool just not great for corvette brakes. Invest in the motive bleeder,it's about the best out there for vette brakes.For $60 it's a deal too.
Gary
Gary
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
I have the might vac and a Phoenix injecter that I bought for bleeding the brakes. They all sucked (pun intended). I cobbled up my own pressure bleeder and it worked great. I have about 100 dollars worth of vacuum stuff that did not work I have used the mighty vac many times for other things just not brakes.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Greg...
I'd actually be interested if you ever got your problem solved with the headlight doors. Vacuum problems with early vetts are a constant discussion item on this forum, and we would all profit by your sucessful solution.
Denny
I'd actually be interested if you ever got your problem solved with the headlight doors. Vacuum problems with early vetts are a constant discussion item on this forum, and we would all profit by your sucessful solution.
Denny
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Originally Posted by Greg in VA
...any one know how this works?
- Prepare the vehicle so you have easy access to the
bleed screws for all four wheels - Make sure there is fluid in the M/C
- Add enough fluid to the Mity-Vac reservoir to cover
the bottom of the hose inside. - Configure the external hoses on the Mity-Vac reservoir
so that the wheel cylinder connects to the nipple to
the hose down to the bottom of the reservior. The
pump connects to the other nipple. - Start with the wheel furthest from the M/C - usually
the rear pass on a non-ABS vehicle. - Attach to the wheel cylinder, pump up some vacuum
and then crack open the bleed screw. - Watch the guage and close the bleed screw before
vac drops to 0. - Repeat until clear fluid emerges steadily with no
bubbles - BE SURE to keep an eye on the fluid level
in the M/C so it does not empty and allow more air in.
When no bubbles come out, move to the next most
distant wheel and repeat. Once all four wheels are
done, you should have a firm pedal - if not, start
again. Do not drive the vehicle until the pedal is firm
- then be careful.
You will probably need to hold the hose onto the
bleed screw and be wary about whether the bubbles
represent air from the brakes or air seeping in at the
bleed screw.
As mentioned, a pressure bleeder does away with the
issues associated with a vac bleeder. But if you are
patient and do this infrequently, it beats calling in
favours from the wife and friends.
.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,943
Likes: 3
From: Wildwood IL
Originally Posted by Slalom4me
You will probably need to hold the hose onto the
bleed screw and be wary about whether the bubbles
represent air from the brakes or air seeping in at the
bleed screw.
.
bleed screw and be wary about whether the bubbles
represent air from the brakes or air seeping in at the
bleed screw.
.
Eddie
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
No arguements from me. I just answered the
question the best I could.
On my car, one bleed screw always fakes me with
bubbles - the rest are fine. In this case, I'm pretty
sure the air is getting past the threads. But the type
of hose and its ability to deform and seal around the
crown of the bleed screw plays a big role, too.
I have a DIY bleeder pretty much ready to go, but
for the C4 M/C cap. It'll work and I can say I built it,
but a p-bleeder from Motive would be a good choice
on a price/performance basis for someone who just
wants to get it over and go drive, IMO.
.
question the best I could.
On my car, one bleed screw always fakes me with
bubbles - the rest are fine. In this case, I'm pretty
sure the air is getting past the threads. But the type
of hose and its ability to deform and seal around the
crown of the bleed screw plays a big role, too.
I have a DIY bleeder pretty much ready to go, but
for the C4 M/C cap. It'll work and I can say I built it,
but a p-bleeder from Motive would be a good choice
on a price/performance basis for someone who just
wants to get it over and go drive, IMO.
.
