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Started installing the STEEROIDS in my 70 yesterday. So far I have had to "tweak" every mount point. Needed to trim the rear edge of the motor mount horns on both sides at the frame so the brackets would fit. Then had to shim the driver side support so it sat square on the frame/bracket. Then had to cut about 1/4" off the driver side engine mount horm so the lower universal did not bind. Also ended up refabricating the driver side bracket to place the heim joint in a better location - angled in line with the double d shaft and higher up. Almost have it where I want it. Nice and smooth WITHOUT moving the steering column at all.
We eyeballed the universals and my question is why not use two universals and a 12" double D shaft. Is the upper s-bend U-joint really needed?
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
well i put inthe steeroids so i'm familar with half of what you are saying...sounds like you have straightened out the linkage some.....if you have straightend out the linkage and some thing looks like it would work better why not try it? i would like to see pictures or a rough sketch to better understand the geometry of waht you are suggesting
What you say has been my primary criticism of their system for some time, I put MY rack install myself about a year before steeroids came out on the market....and located the rack a bit higher and twisted the input shaft up more, but had to cut out a ~3 inch crescent from the lower rear of the engine mount horn, collapsing the column inward for better angles on the universals, and using a rubber flex coupling and double D shaft from junkyard parts, I have the entire thing done for less than 200 bux....junkyard parts all the way....35 for the rack, and input universals, and 80 for a machinest to make the inner tie rod adaptor blocks....and so the brackets were welded up by a buddy, and so one of them took two attempts, but it's in there, and rugged as necessary with less than 1/2 the weight of the steeroids brackets...
The 3 universals do make it easier to place the rack. And can you imagine how many people would scream if the install required them to cut their engine mounts??
What you say has been my primary criticism of their system for some time, I put MY rack install myself about a year before steeroids came out on the market....and located the rack a bit higher and twisted the input shaft up more, but had to cut out a ~3 inch crescent from the lower rear of the engine mount horn, collapsing the column inward for better angles on the universals, and using a rubber flex coupling and double D shaft from junkyard parts, I have the entire thing done for less than 200 bux....junkyard parts all the way....35 for the rack, and input universals, and 80 for a machinest to make the inner tie rod adaptor blocks....and so the brackets were welded up by a buddy, and so one of them took two attempts, but it's in there, and rugged as necessary with less than 1/2 the weight of the steeroids brackets...
GENE
Gene I ended up cutting about a 1/4" crescent out of the engine mount anyway. I did some more research and flaming river reccomends that the angles of the Universals are ideally 15 degrees but can be used up to 30 degrees. What sort of angle do you have on both your universals?
I think the steeroids rack could be rotated quite easily. Just remake the drivers side bracket as the passenger side can swivel anyway. I think I will get it in and working before I mess with that though.
well i put inthe steeroids so i'm familar with half of what you are saying...sounds like you have straightened out the linkage some.....if you have straightend out the linkage and some thing looks like it would work better why not try it? i would like to see pictures or a rough sketch to better understand the geometry of waht you are suggesting
Bob,
Heres a pic of where I am at with the bracket. Bear in mind this is in the prototype stage. I am going to drop it off at a welding shop tomorrow and get them to put some 1/4" plate and some gussets in place of my hack job. My hack job does give a really smooth feeling wheel though. Note how the heim joint hole is higher, the angle is changed and it will follow the line of the double D shaft.
Heres why I think so. First the hiem joint is closer to the S joint making it more stable. Secondly the double D shaft runs through the middle of the heim, it does not rub against the side. And thirdly I think that moving the hiem joint softened the angle a little, not much but it seems to be onthe right track.
I ask because I wonder about the clutch linkage. My shaft is much straighter also but I have no clutch to worry about.
Manual. I am clear of the linkage with the steeroids setup. Tack welded in the new piece today. Pics tomorrow. All universals are sitting nice. Even got steering wheel lined up with rack and pinion center.
I did have to tap the column back about 1/4" but I thought that was acceptable.
Its the small victories that make us suffer in the garage for so long!
Sting, I can't really say what the angles are, the universal on the rack is not much angle at all, the one on the column shaft is more angle, maybe twice as much, but not even close to binding....
Sting, I can't really say what the angles are, the universal on the rack is not much angle at all, the one on the column shaft is more angle, maybe twice as much, but not even close to binding....
GENE
Gene,
Thanks for looking at it. I have a temp solution with my reworked brackets. Seems to be nice movement but no binding anywhere.
Pete, don't be afraid of pushing the column back, the ujoints will give in a crash...
Check out this top view of mine. I probably could have gone with just 2 u-joints but it was easier with 3 and I already had them...
The angles of each joint is less than 15 degrees, I measured...
427. Nice work. Dropped of my bracket today to get welded by the pros. They are also adding some triangle gussets to brace. I will try and measure angles tomorrow when I install. I also have the 3 U-joint setup so will not change for now. If I do a RHD conversion back in OZ I will go to two U-joints and a single shaft. Heres my latest metalwork before welding. Hole was moved back in about 1/4" but simialr idea to before.