80TexasC3

Any ideas on this one?

I just replaced my second Optima Yellow Top battery. This time I've gone with an AutoZone Duralast (top rated by Consumer Reports).

The first yellow top would become very weak quickly...then would not take a charge. Took it back to store and had a bad cell.

Second yellow top is now out of the car. I fully charged it last weekend, use my battery disconnect last weekend then hooked it back up Saturday... nearly dead...

Here are the mods that have been made to the car just in case this has any factors:

Insatlled Dual SPAL fans
Installed MSD digital-6 ignition
High Watt Stereo amp
Upgraded Alternator to 140 amp one wire (white plug is no longer used...taped off)

Any help/thoughts would be appreciated.

Ed

80TexasC3

bump

I'm Batman

I'm not a fan of 1-wire alternators. With that long battery line, you might not be getting enough voltage, due to the nature of a 1-wire's regulation. There are some good articles online on the disadvantages of 1-wire alternators...to sum it up, if you don't have a boat or tractor, use a 3-wire.

Budman68

Are you running two larger gauge wires to the starter for the 140 amp. I don't think the stock charge wire is big enough to handle more than 100 amps.

G dad

Just for fun what is the voltage off the back of the Alternator when the car is running? Measuure it...should be around 14.5 or so...maybe the alt. has a bad voltage regulator? How old is the alternator?

Mike Mercury

Also keep in mind that there is another choice with this spiral cell technology. Made by Exide, it's called the "Orbital" battery. My local Sams club sells them (and they are generally $17 less than the Optima).

I'm Batman

This is exactly why I recommended looking up the articles on 1-wire v. 3-wire alternators...I'll see if I can find a couple of links to post.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

Techno

I've heard those batteries are finicky for charging. Mostly a wall charger not the charger system. These batteries are highly regarded in boats too but they need charging more often than a car does. They can be easily ruined with the wrong type of charger.
It seems its more a charging problem with your car than this battery though. Others have used them with no problems.

I prefer the ODYSSEY myself.
http://www.batterymart.com/odyssey_battery.php

Desertdawg

Don't wall charge it with a regular batter booster, The Optima's need to be trickled charged for long life.
The yellow tops are more prone to failure with boost charging than the red tops.

pcfred

I use Sears Gold and Kirkland brand from Costco, both brands perform very well and for the money I can buy 3 batteries compared to the Optima's.

vettfixr

I had an Optima Red Top go bad in less than a year. I got a free replacement for it and for the last 6 months its been OK but I'm still a little wary. I've never had a new battery fail in so short a time until now. If this one goes bad prematurely I'll go back to regular batteries. Just my $.02.

I'm Batman

The only Optima I've had go bad was in my '77, and it took 3+ years to fail due to a constant discharge problem (shorted starter). I have another one that's lasted through two Eagle Talons, and is now in my Cherokee. It sounds like you got a bad apple, or have an electrical problem. I know some people that have been running Optimas for over 10 years without a problem. I'd never go back to standard battery.

Personally, I think the red-top is much better for a car than the yellow-top. Pick the right battery for your application - I don't see too many people putting standard marine batteries in their cars...

Desertdawg

I have Optimas in all 3 of my vehicles, The one in the Jeep CJ is 9 years old, truck is 7, and the vette is 2.

I had a first edition in the Jeep when they first hit the shelves, and it lasted 5 years, a bad short killed it, but I still got some of the pro- rate applied to the new one.

I won't ever buy a wet cell batt. again...

Sprzout

The Yellow Tops are meant more for cars with lots of accessories, such as huge stereo systems, video screens, etc. They're not meant for the everyday driving conditions, whereas the Red Tops are.

The Marine Optimas are their Blue Tops.

LiveandLetDrive

Shouldn't we be waiting to hear if the new battery works before saying the charging system is bad?

I agree that if you charged it with more than 2 or so amps you may have killed it. I think the lowest "Battery Tender" charges at much less than 1 amp!

srs244

i've been using a yellow top (deep cycle) in my 78 that gets driven about once a week all year long (when there aren't any hurricanes that keep it in the garage for a few extra weeks, lol. thanks WILMA!!) it has always been connected to a micro processor battery "tender" when parked in the garage during the week since day one and has been much more dependable and provided a more positive crank rate than anything i used in it before. i realize it probably wasn't worth the extra money for the yellow, and unless something really strange happens (like it lasts for the next 10 years, lol), i will probably replace it with a red top the next time. also i sure like the fact that there is gel and not hydrochloric acid behind my seat. i've had no complaints to this point, and tend to believe that it will continue to be dependable in the future.

stickboy

you car is already wired for a 3-wire so why not use it. Large car stereos are good at killing batteries if you don't run a capacitor. The quick spike is power usage does them in. Also a problem with the charging system (ie alternator, wiring) will kill batteries too.

I'm Batman

Whoops...I always thought the deep-cycle type batteries were made for marine and heavy equipment applications. My bad. From their literature, Red is still best for a regular car.

oregonsharkman

My yellow top is 2 years old----it sits all winter and fires up first thing in the spring.....something my old batteries would never do.

Desertdawg

Yellow tops (Deep Cycle) batteries are made for long slow draws, think RV type usage. Thats what they are mainly produced for.