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I am working on replacing a 1976 Corvette rear bumper cover and would like to know if I have to drop the gas tank to get at the top studs on the body that hold the cover on? Any easier way? Thanks!
If they're rusted you'll have a hard time and some busted knuckles... when I removed my old rear bumper I pushed plastic wedges between the body and bumper (after I had the accessible bolts out), then I used a sawblade to cut the bolt. To my surprise it worked very well - a lot better than I expected - and I did not cut into the fiberglass... I cut into the bumper a few times but I intended to replace that bumper anyway... wrap some duct-tape around the sawblade so you don't hurt your hand.
Use stainless bolts when you install the new bumper, just in case....
I have a 75 that I am replacing the rear bumper on. I had the same problem as you. All I did was cut the old bumper about 2 inches away from the body. This allowed easy access to the mounting hardware. Do yourself a favor and buy new mounting hardware.
Good Luck
Steve
I replaced mine with a fiberglass bumper cover.. no need for mounting hardware but it will crack like an egg if hit. and i ripped the heck outa my old bumper, tearing and ripping since i was getting rid of it in the first place. I dont think I dropped the tank. My old bumper cracked from just being old and i never hit anything. So I went with the fiberglass bumper cover. 10 years and not a scratch. Good luck
I have a 75 that I am replacing the rear bumper on. I had the same problem as you. All I did was cut the old bumper about 2 inches away from the body. This allowed easy access to the mounting hardware. Do yourself a favor and buy new mounting hardware.
Good Luck
Steve
I cut my '74 & '75's rear bumper as close to the fiberglass WITHOUT damaging it. The less of the bumper there is to go around means it's easier to get at the retaining nuts on the "inside". Since my '75 had been driven in Winters at some point in it's life, the small retaining studs had virtually nothing left of the threads. I snapped a couple, then just took a small grinding wheel and buzzed off the top of the head of the stud and "poked" it through. If your studs are rusty like this, you'll waste a ton of time messing with them. Just grind off the top of the head where it's attached to the retainer, then push it through.
I agree with the above posts. I replaced the rear bumpers on my 74 and my father's 75. No need to remove the gas tank. A great tool that may be of help is a gear wrench (ratcheting wrench). This should help save the knuckles and constantly relacatin the wrench after about a 1/16th of a turn. If you are lucky, most of the studs will break off.
Definitely go with a new stainless stell mounting kit when you get the new bumper.
I agree with the above posts. I replaced the rear bumpers on my 74 and my father's 75. No need to remove the gas tank. A great tool that may be of help is a gear wrench (ratcheting wrench). This should help save the knuckles and constantly relacatin the wrench after about a 1/16th of a turn. If you are lucky, most of the studs will break off.
Definitely go with a new stainless stell mounting kit when you get the new bumper.
Ron
hmmm... think all 75's needed this ~!!! i am currently doing the same... only i have an unfair advantage... the bumper was practicly gone except for the rusted old mounting hardware... where can you find a stainless steel kit and is it more $$$ than the other one?
My 2 cents: After replacing 2 bumper covers on my '75 and having to mess around with a poor fit - I'd advise on dropping the tank and the tank shield. I never could have gotten my arms in past the tank shield to the upper retainer bolts. It makes working under there SO MUCH easier and is not that big a hassle to remove. Besides, you get to clean up a lot of areas, you know - "I might as well.... as long as I'm there...."
hmmm... think all 75's needed this ~!!! i am currently doing the same... only i have an unfair advantage... the bumper was practicly gone except for the rusted old mounting hardware... where can you find a stainless steel kit and is it more $$$ than the other one?
I beleive that most of the vendors carry the stainless steel mounting kit. I beleive that I got mine through Eckler's or Zip, and one set through Keen parts. I am also a big fan of the True-flex bumpers. Maybe I got lucky but both rear bumpers came out great with no modifications to the body of the car. The Truef-flex bumpers allow a person to get one section just right, tighten the bolts in that area and then slightly push in or out on other areas to get a really nice fit.
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