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Ok here is the question. I droped my car off at a local transmission shop. They told me they can go as far as I want them to go on the trans. I was wondering if anyone can give me a ball park figure on how much it will cost me. I want it built for street/strip. The builder was talking about a stage 2 shift kit, and beefing it up more, and putting in a converter with a stall in it. I am most likely going to put a 383 in the car with around 400hp. If you guys can also give me some advice on how far to go with the trans, and what to have done to it. (I don't want to go too overboard) But I do want it to bang through the gears, and be able to handle the abuce I put it through. The engine in it now is the L48 and I am pretty sure it is the TH350 transmission.
BOWTIE:
Transmission: 2004R Level 2 $1,050.00
Torque Converter: 2200 Heavy Duty $175.00
Shifter: 68-71 Corvette SC2401 $90.00
Inspection Cover: 2004R Univ. plastic $25.00
Dipstick: 2004R $30.00
TV System: Holley 4100 Throttle Bracket Single Non Braided $119.95
TCC Wiring: TCC Brake Switch Kit $28.00
Speedometer Gears: New Set 2004R Drive/Driven Gears Only 2004R Speedo Housing Drive Gear: 10 Driven Gear: 29 $70.55
Installation Tools Cost
Install Kit(Pressure Gauge Blk Temp Gauge Inline Filter) $67.00
Misc Items Cost
Crate fee $45.00
Free TV system w/ Trans order $-109.95
2 Day standard shipping $0.00
Corvette yoke $79.00
Sub Total $1,669.54
Tax $0.00
S&H $182.00
Total $1,851.54
EXTRAS NEEDED TO COMPLETE
Summit Racing SFI Flexplate $50.00 or so
Custom tranny lines plus all connectors $40.00
External tranny cooler ?
12 Quarts Dexron III Tranny fluid $25.00
Adaptive Ujoint $20.00 or so
UJoint pressing plus Spicer Ujoint $36.00
Blue Lock Tight
I have a 74 w\TH400, I took it into a local shop and they did a bench build for $400 included new standard TC. Most rebuild kits have the upgraded, new & better parts.
I bought the shift kit and Aluminum bottom pan w\drain hole from ebay. Had them installed at the same time.
I plan a additional fluid cooler. Keep em cool, and full of fluid and they hold up pretty good.
Go read about shift kits, they claim to make the trans work and last longer because of more positive shifting and fluid pressures.
I'm partial to overdrive, and they can be built to handle the HP and torque. Both 200-4R and 700-R4 can handle it, but I think the 700 is a little more direct fit for the TH350. Much more expensive than rebuilding what you have, but well worth it.
How radical are you going with the cam in the 383? If you are going to keep the car smog legal for Ca emissions, you probably don't need a loose converter. If you do go with a loose converter, don't forget to add in an auxilliary trans cooler.
I'm partial to overdrive, and they can be built to handle the HP and torque. Both 200-4R and 700-R4 can handle it, but I think the 700 is a little more direct fit for the TH350. Much more expensive than rebuilding what you have, but well worth it.
How any miles do you put on it yearly? The th400 is the strongest autotrans G.M. ever built for cars. If you don't put a lot of miles on the car, the savings you get from the better mileage of an overdrive trans won't come close to recouping the cost to convert.
Well as for milage, I have had the car for about 8 months now and put about 4k on it. But I plan on driving it more. Well at the shop I decided to have them put in the th700. I am going all out on the trans, I told them that I would rather spend the extra money on it that way I do not have to worry about it again. As for the stall the trans builder said he was probably going to put in a 3000rpm.
How radical are you going with the cam in the 383? If you are going to keep the car smog legal for Ca emissions, you probably don't need a loose converter. If you do go with a loose converter, don't forget to add in an auxilliary trans cooler.
I am not sure about the cam yet. I am also second guessing myself on the 383 now, I might just build up the 350 that is in it now, since it is the original. I am not sure if it really matters. But I am going to do the supension next, then the engin last.
I think the 3000 rpm stall is a little high for the street driving you do. If you don't plan on going to the strip (drag not hooker) every weekend, then have them stay below 2600 rpm.
the savings you get from the better mileage of an overdrive trans won't come close to recouping the cost to convert.
This is true for most people. Just the gas savings will take around 70k miles to repay what the swap cost, but consider that for long highway cruising, the engine is running at 2/3 the speed. Hopefully the drop in rpm will save wear on other drivetrain parts, but the most important thing is how much more refined it makes driving.
I think the 3000 rpm stall is a little high for the street driving you do. If you don't plan on going to the strip (drag not hooker) every weekend, then have them stay below 2600 rpm.
Thanks, I will tell the shop, I did tell them that I wanted it mostly for crusin, and the occasional drag. I was kind of thinken that 3000 was to high.