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Tach test

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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 08:45 AM
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Default Tach test

is there a test i can do to determine whether the tach is bad
or something is amiss in my wiring?
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by WP23N
is there a test i can do to determine whether the tach is bad
or something is amiss in my wiring?
sure is! ... turn the key and press the pedal to the right... if it moves your tach is good... if not.. you may need to check it out...
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 09:35 AM
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most of the time its the circuit board behind the tach, its an easy replacement. the card is about $60 from most catalogs. try ECKLERS.. if your handy and have a tach and dwell remove the tach ,there are 3 contacts behind the tach, one is 12volts.one is a ground and the other is the tach signal..hook up the dwell meter if it works its probably the circuit board
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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Easiest thing to miss is the connection on the distributor. Make sure it's plugged in good. Ask me how I know....
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by palazzopl
most of the time its the circuit board behind the tach, its an easy replacement. the card is about $60 from most catalogs. try ECKLERS.. if your handy and have a tach and dwell remove the tach ,there are 3 contacts behind the tach, one is 12volts.one is a ground and the other is the tach signal..hook up the dwell meter if it works its probably the circuit board

exactly what i was looking for, i hate throwing parts at something.
would rather test and determine first.

thanks again
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by palazzopl
... there are 3 contacts behind the tach, one is 12volts.one is a ground and the other is the tach signal..hook up the dwell meter if it works its probably the circuit board
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by WP23N
is there a test i can do to determine whether the tach is bad
or something is amiss in my wiring?
The circuit board has usually failed in most circumstances when the tach fails (assuming an electronic tach).

Check this first:
1. Make sure you don't have any blown fuses -- the tach needs power
2. Check to make sure all the connections are tight and secure (some of them look fine, but you may want to pull and reseat them to be sure and remove any oxidation)
3. Bypass the filter that is inline right near the tach. it's a round barrel looking thing screwed to the intake (if it's stock).

If all that fails, then it is probably the board, and since I have done a replacement of that, it's a day project to get the dashboard apart to get at the board (it's mounted to the back of the guage) and reassemble. In my case, the replacement board was crap, too -- so I had to fix all the solder connections on the board.

One more thing, the board will often need to be "tweaked" to have it read right -- there is a adjustment pot on the board.

Compared to the other things I ended up fixing, this one wasn't that expensive to fix -- but it was certainly laborious. I also replaced all the lamps in the dash at the same time -- figured why go back in a month for a burned out bulb.

Brian.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 11:02 AM
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OK here is what mine is doing,

if i tap on the dash in front of the Tach repeatedly the needle will move
up to above the "0" as soon as i energize the ignition it drops all the way
to the bottom, when i shut it off the needle come back up ever so slightly to about 1/4 inch below the "0"

ideas?
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 03:36 PM
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If the tach is working, but has no signal input, then it will drop to 0 and stay there.

Its possble to modify an low voltage A.C. Adapter into a tach tester by removing the filter cap.
A full wave rectified A.C. Signal should result in a tach reading of 1800 RPM
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 04:15 PM
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the filter is on the manifold and it is unplugged so i guess that means
the tach has died.
i will do more tests when im off tuesday just to make sure.
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