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383 stroker.......coming soon.........

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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 09:06 PM
  #1  
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Default 383 stroker.......coming soon.........

Well, I have finally committed to the stroker project. With the constant overheating problems, and the new steering fluid leak, and the brake pedal to the floor problem, I said.....It's time to pull her apart!!

I have started disconnecting stuff, and have the radiator ready to pull out! This puppy is coming out soon. Got the motor lift ready.....

Q1: Should I pull the tranny with the motor?

Q2: Will the stock tranny handle the new HP? Not going ballistic with HP, but it will be towards the strong side!

Q3: What does the machine shop actually have to do to the block other than bore out?

Guys, I may be getting in over my head, but I plan on breaking the engine down myself, and rebuilding it, and reinstall........wish me luck!

P.S.: I do have a buddy with rebuild experience who is willing to assist!

I'll be taking recommendations for crank, cam, heads, etc. shortly!!

Pics coming as well...........
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 10:33 PM
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From: Jennings LA
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no need to pull the trans, it should be fine. the machine shop has to bore it and clearance the sides to clear the rods. the whole job is not really that hard just take your time. if you loosen the radiator support and remove the hood you can tilt it forward enough to pull the motor without removing the radiator. trust me after you fight the fan shroud
once you will love doing it this way
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 12:45 AM
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I clearly remember fighting with the shroud when I did mine 12 years ago or so, it sucked! I didn't know u could pull the motor and leave it on.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 07:36 AM
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you dont leave it on, but once you tilt it forward and remove the fan blade the shroud will come straight up and out, no fight and the radiator stays in. the first time I pulled the motor I know it took hours to fight that shroud, I was ready to cut it.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 09:18 AM
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If your car has a lot of miles on it, I would pull the trans and have it rebuilt at the same time. If you have the TH350\400 most shops will do a bench rebuild for under $400. I bought a shift kit on ebay and a bottom pan with drain hole also.

I also found that my trans tunnel insulation and shifter boot rubber was shot when I pulled the trans. It also game me more access to clean the 30 years of oil, dirt, road grime, etc from under the car.

You and your buddy can handle it, just go slow, research when not sure, and bag and tag everything.

Audie
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 10:18 AM
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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I have finally committed to the stroker project.
Good luck man
Give me a ring if you need a hand. I can come hold down a few beer's for ya
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 03:06 PM
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When you go to re-install the engine, I found it is much easier to bold up the tranny outside the car, and install them as a whole.

The machine shop should do a bunch of other stuff than just bore the cylinders. They will machine down the deck making sure there is a perfectly true flat surface for the heads to bolt too, and they will also do the crank journal.

I put a 383 in this past year..... your going to LOVE it.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 05:45 PM
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What's all this talk about the fan shroud? It came right out for me, just slide the radiator out first then take out the shroud.

Take everything out but the AC and the power steering, leave those aside. And pull the hood marking where the mounts are before you unbolt them, in case you have to line it up later. I unbolted it from the body and the frame leaving the mounts on the hood, I didn't have to line anything up when I put it back on.

Use little baggies and label all of the bolts, it'll save you sooo much time.

Take pics of the vacuum lines. Label any electrical wires that you pull off.

It can be a bitch to get the motor to line up with the trans when it's going back in. So it might be easier to pull it out with the motor. Your call. And if the car is a manual trans don't forget to pull the clutch fork down! I forgot to do this and wasted hours trying to separate the motor from the trans. I didn't realize it until I had given up and pulled the trans out with the motor.
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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Thanks for all the replies.......

Finally got the dang radiator out......what a pita!! That fan shroud sux and I sure hope everything goes in easier than it came out. Of course, I pull the rad. by myself, and that didn't make it very easy.

Most everything up top is unhooked and out of the way. Gotta crawl underneath next and clean all that up!! It's actually going quicker than I expected!!

Gotta start making that wish list for heads, cam, etc.......very soon!!

Anymore ideas of things I should do while I have the engine pulled? I know my AC compressor is screwed as it was covered with oil on the bottom side of it......Also putting in new radiator, fixin' the power steering leak, and the brake to the floor problem.

She will be coming out soon........Pics coming.........

(thanks for the offer hooker, I'll let ya know....)
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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If at all possible I would consider changing to an OD tranny at the same time. If you can't, then I agree with audiec, rebuild the trans and consider a different stall converter.
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 02:08 PM
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Before you make your mind up on a head and cam kit you need to take a ride in mine. I'm sure love'n this holley kit i got. And going with a 383 bottom end it'ed be even better i think.
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Old Nov 8, 2005 | 05:25 PM
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Check your heater\AC box while the engine is out and consider replacing the engine wiring harness if its getting ratty. Much easier to do with the engine out...

Audie
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 12:08 AM
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I'm top clean now......just gotta drain the oil, and remove the underside stuff and this baby is pulled......

Started doubting myself on the 383 just a bit........but then I realized that my motor has 130000 + miles on it..........so why not do it right!

That GD fan shroud still is an arsehole...........
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 09:46 PM
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What a pita......now I understand why mechanics charge so much to work on vettes.......you must be a contorsionist to get to half the stuff.....

Well, worked on the bottom side couple of hours this evening.....starter was a pita to remove, disconnected the manifolds from exhaust, and all I have left to do is disconnect the tranny lines......HOW IN THE HELL DO YOU DO THIS, AND WITH WHAT TOOL? Tranny cooling lines are indented as so you can't get a wrench around them...?? Also with what miracle tool do you use to remove the speedo cable connection at the tranny?

I have oil and coolant all drained........couple more pita hours and this old biatch is coming out!!
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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MS VETTEMAN...
Please do not take these comments the wrong way.....
I have read several of your post and you admit a lack of knowledge in the automotive area........
I would suggest you purchase a complete "crate" motor for your vette.
Building a motor is not that easy if you dont know what to look for...matching parts...matching performance...making parts fit...everything does not just bolt up on the inside of a 383.... Tools...torques...clearances...ect...ect .
I have built many performance motors over way to many years....there are plenty of "crate" motors out that you can buy complete for what it will cost you to put together your own first motor...if you do it correctly.
You will get plenty of experence just taking the old motor and tranny out and putting in the new...and hooking it all up...and getting it to run correctly.
I am just trying to be helpful...we all got to learn sometime....just a 383 is not the place I would reccomend you start to learn...the lessons will be very expensive and very fustrating.
Good luck to you.
Dave (the old one) 62
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 12:43 PM
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There is a lot to do go'n from 350 to 383. I'ed just snag a short block 383 that's put together by a pro and add a alum. head & cam kit of your choice. And keep the old stocker put up for later so you can go back stock if you ever have the need. With all the drag racers and dirt trackers around here there are some good shops around town that can fix you up.
Allso you may want to look in to a rear gear. I think you have a 3.08 in there dont you? I'ed swap it to a 3.55 or 3.70 and do a OD trans. That'll wake it up for sure!
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 12:53 PM
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I ain't scared!! Actually guys I appreciate your concerns, but I have help in this!! I have two guys experienced that are going to help me with the rebuild!! I'm just tackling the uninstall by myself for now until I need them to help me pull the motor!!

I'm also going to throughly check out and ask for opinions in this thread concerning picking the proper parts (cam, crank, etc...) to make sure I'm heading in the right direction. It's going to be rebuilt either way, so I don't think a stroker makes any difference.........

If it gets hairy, I'll load up the motor and parts and head to a shop!! I do however want the original motor/block in the car!! I don't see any sense in paying all the extra for crate stroker when you can build it for 1/2 the cost!!

I might be crazy, but...........
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:26 PM
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I feel like I'm talkin' to myself again, but.....

I was talking to a buddy today that said there was more to the stroker rebuild than just taking it to a machine shop. He said certain things in the block and heads have to be machined, or grinded to make parts fit and work. Is this true? Can you not order a kit without doing all of that?

Now I'm leaning to just rebuilding the 350..........bummer........

I still need to do a complete rebuild because I don't trust this motor.

I'm listening........motor is coming out regardless.........
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MsVetteMan
I feel like I'm talkin' to myself again, but.....

I was talking to a buddy today that said there was more to the stroker rebuild than just taking it to a machine shop. He said certain things in the block and heads have to be machined, or grinded to make parts fit and work. Is this true? Can you not order a kit without doing all of that?

Now I'm leaning to just rebuilding the 350..........bummer........

I still need to do a complete rebuild because I don't trust this motor.

I'm listening........motor is coming out regardless.........
Block must be clearanced at the cylinder bottoms, oil pan rail, and depending upon the rods, the rod bolts may need ground.
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