Help removing valve springs on workbench
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
From: Oakton VA
Help removing valve springs on workbench
I had my engine rebuilt recently and I installed correct heads. Previous owner installed after-market angle plug heads and I’m moving my car back towards stock. I’d like to try selling the heads so I’m trying to remove the old valves and springs. I bought a basic spring compressor, but as I compress the spring on my workbench, the valve moves as well preventing me from removing the retainer. All the reference books I have describe how to do it on the car with compressed air in the cylinder. What’s the secret for removing springs and retainers on the workbench? BTW, the engine was a pretty serious race engine with double springs. Might that require a more serious retainer? I’m over my head at this point. Any help greatly appreciated.
Dick
Dick
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,711
Likes: 43
From: San Antonio TX
You can do this with a socket, hammer, and a small piece of wood. Put the wood in the chamber to limit the travel of the valves. Put a socket with an ID slightly smaller than the retainers OD and smack it with the hammer enough to compress the spring at least half way down. The locks will usually fall out after one or two smacks and voila! If it takes you more than ten minutes to do all 16 valves, then you're taking too many beer breaks.
It should go without saying that this technique only works for taking valves out. For installing them, you'll need a proper compressor.
No sheet, this is how I've done it for...well, let's just say that I have years of experience with this method. Taught to me by a very old mechanic when I was a young lad.
It should go without saying that this technique only works for taking valves out. For installing them, you'll need a proper compressor.
No sheet, this is how I've done it for...well, let's just say that I have years of experience with this method. Taught to me by a very old mechanic when I was a young lad.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,547
Likes: 12
From: Carbondale Pa.
Originally Posted by gerry72
You can do this with a socket, hammer, and a small piece of wood. Put the wood in the chamber to limit the travel of the valves. Put a socket with an ID slightly smaller than the retainers OD and smack it with the hammer enough to compress the spring at least half way down. The locks will usually fall out after one or two smacks and voila! If it takes you more than ten minutes to do all 16 valves, then you're taking too many beer breaks.
It should go without saying that this technique only works for taking valves out. For installing them, you'll need a proper compressor.
No sheet, this is how I've done it for...well, let's just say that I have years of experience with this method. Taught to me by a very old mechanic when I was a young lad.
It should go without saying that this technique only works for taking valves out. For installing them, you'll need a proper compressor.
No sheet, this is how I've done it for...well, let's just say that I have years of experience with this method. Taught to me by a very old mechanic when I was a young lad.
yep,,, always worked for me too, thank God for Alabama Ed and the Greenbush Garage, best school I ever attended 
Peace,,,Moosie 
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Nebraska (no smog tests!)
Originally Posted by kona
The compressor I use is really old and looks like a huge C-clamp. The bottom goes under the valve and the fork tightens the spring down so you can remove the retainer.
Kona
Kona
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: PA
If you have the C-clamp type, wack the valve spring hard with a rubber mallet, this will loosen the locks so the tool compresses easy,a good magnet works to pull out the locks, and of course...I've used the other method plenty of times, amoung other things...
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