I know this subject must have been discussed before, but what is the prefered method for for removing the trailing arms at the frame on my 69? I don't have access to torches or TNT so I'm going to have to use my sawzall. Where is the best place to start my cut, what is the best blade to use? I did get the shims loose, but no room between them. I know that this is not going to be a easy job, but any tips sure would be appreciated.
Thank you
Sly

 

If the shims wont pull out just cut through them. If you try cut right next to the trailing arm you will probably go through the hardened sleeve which will be a real bitch. I made that mistake.

 

You may have shims with a hole - not the "newer style" with slots... just cut thru the whole thing, blades from HomeDepot do the job but you may need a few blades.... well, at $3 a piece it's not that big of a deal.... on your way home stop at the store and get some beer...you'll need it....

 

I had my sawzall in waiting (use 18t blade if you do) , but found it easier to use a dremel with a fibre cut-off disk to cut off the castle nut on the bolt holding the trailing arm.....I then used a punch tool to push the bolt in (towards the car) as far as possible (about an inch).....I then used a pair of long handled needle nosed pliers to reach the bolt head and pulled it out (took some time, but wasn't too hard).

 

My suggestion is to buy an economy cutting torch rig off E-Bay. A (buy it now) set will go for around $70 or better. The bottles can be leased or rented by the month or year from your local welding supply house. (Tractor Supply does also carry them in some areas) If you haven't used cutting torches before, try a local vocational school for instruction, and buy a book, and read it carefully paying close attention to the safety portion!!! For some good instructional books go to . (www.walmart.com & search welding). You won't be sorry if you make the investment, but be warned Having a Oxy/Acc rig is like winning the lottery if you are good with it You will suddenly have friends & family you never knew you had.

Good luck.

 

Here's the problem: the bolt is likely rusted to the bushing's inner sleeve, just like on the photo below. If this is the case you cannot just cut the nut and beat the bolt out... I tried and failed....

 

Getting the arms off is not that difficult once you know the secret. Don’t tell everyone its just for us to know. I wrestled for about 2 to 3 hours on one side with heat , hammers, dremel, sawzaw, you name it. I finally figured it out. When you go to Home Depot to get some blades for the sawzaw (get the long ones w/ coarse teeth.) go pickup a propane torch the one that someone would use for plumbing. If they have it get MAP gas instead of propane. It burns much hotter. You will have less than $50.00 dollars in tools when you leave. Once you are home take the torch and heat up the rubber bushing until everything around it starts to glow. At that point grab the arm and twist it and also push the back ( by the rotor) in and out towards the passenger side then to the driver side. Their will compress the bushing and allow you to very easily get the sawzaw in to cut just the bolt. Cut the bolt on both sides of the T-arm. Once I figured this out it took me 20 minutes tops to do both sides and my saw blade is still good. The only thing you need to be careful of is that the fuel line runs along the frame on the passenger side. In les than an hour you can have the old ones out and the new T-arms in. Don’t forget to stop on your way home from Home Depot at the store to pick up some beer. You will need it now to celebrate a quick job well done instead of drowning your frustrations. I did this on a real rusted 68.

 

Sawzall. I have said it many times. Our company makes the blades (Lenox blades) This will work everytime. 1 maybe 2 blades will do the job in short time. I can cut through a hardened bolt in no time. A rusted bolt with shims is no problem. A little work and messy but you can have both arms out in 15 to 30 minutes. If you cannot find Lenox get a good Bimetal blade. The cheap ones will break and dull very quickly you will be aggrivated quickly. Spend the extra couple of bucks on this. I do this every day. Not cutting trailing arms out but cutting steel of various types.

Most of the time the bolt is rusted to the inner sleeve and needs to be cut out.

 

 

First post for me here on Corvette Forum. Been around racing all my life... family has run Late Models on dirt all over the midwest. i have completed a frame on restroration of my big block Vette over the past few years.

I ran into the same problem on my 71. I tried everything, but the bolts were rusted bad enough i couldn't work them out. Only solution was the sawsall with the good lenox blade. Cut the bolt on both sides of the trailing arm so that it falls out. Once I started this approach it literally was a 30 minute job. I assume you are going to replace the arms. I sent mine out for rebuild and put in new hardware with them when they came back. Just remember to keep count of the shims on each side relative to the trailing arm so that you can put the new ones back in the same. This should get your alignment close so that a alignment shop only has to fine tune.

 

remove body from frame , A lot more space to work.

 

Gordon...FREE SAMPLES?? I`ll send my address.
...redvetracr

 

Well the first try I followed the advice of a guy at VBP and tried to cut through the bolt at the rubber. took nearly 3hrs. Then I got a more aggressive lazer blade(10tpi) and went to the outside of the shims and the next three cuts were done in 1hr. Thank all of you for your help, I sure do appreciate it.
Sly

 

The Lazer blade is a wider blade and thicker. 1 inch wide by .042 thick. The standard blades are 3/4 wide by .035. The Lazers are more $$$ but worth it. We now have coated (TiN) recip blades that are better yet. Cost more but they hold up way better.