going to tear down the 383 and do a freshen up on rings ect,,while i have the engine out was thinking of changing the heads, have the stock ones in there now with the 2.02 intakes,was thinking of something w/ better flow like the elderbrock #60739 or even the brodex heads. anyone have suggestions???,car is street driven,700r-4 373 rear gears,, 670 hollystreet advenger,, crane fiberball cam 488 lift,,, thanks carl------------------------

 

Depends on how much money you want to spend.

 

air flow reaserch 195 cc street heads seem to be some to look into at $1250 a pair complete they claim to get 520 hp from a 350 chevy,let alone a 383

 

That is a really good choice and will work splendidly for your application.

 

that would be nice

 

I've got the AFR heads and they work great, lots of AFR heads used by Forum members....

 

was wondering if there a direct bolt up such as manifolds ect

 

AFR195 Heads, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake(pt#7501) and Speed Demon 750DP. My car isn't on the road yet, but it dynoed 485 hp/490 tq at the flywheel.
Only issue with the 195's is the oil collects around the valve stems. This can be lessened by having a slot machined in between the valves and the oil return holes opened up.
AFR was saying their newly designed head was going to address this. You may want to call them to see when they will be released. If you don't go with these I understand the Dart Pro 1s are a goos head for the money.
Whatever you decide to go with be sure to check out the distributor to cam gear mesh and oil pump driveshaft clearance once you put it all together. With my set-up I had to have the distributor converted to a slip collar so I could get the proper clearances.

Have Fun

 

im trying to get away from all oil related problems,,this is why im doing this in the first place, heads were not done the way i wanted the first time and im tired of sinking good money in the iron heads, might as well get good heads while i got the 383 apart doing a re ring/freshen up,thanks for your heads up!!!,,,carl

 

U have to consider chamber size to match c.r..
Match c.r. for aluminum vs iron.
Runner size to match c.i..
Cam to match rpm range for race or street.
rpm range to match rear gear set and trans/torque converter.
Intake to match rpm range.
Heads exh X-over to match intake.
Carb choke to match intake.
And finally everthing has to match smog laws.
Really once u get everything to match this it narrows the search quite a bit.

IMHO carl, those TrickFlow heads are the best buy. Or u may be able to table up all the numbers right and find a better matching head - so make a table/list with all ur needs then see whats out there.

Man i bet this question this the most asked on the forum and nearly everyone has different requirements.
I quess what i'm saying is only u really know what ur mtr needs better than anyone and though we maybe able to help with specific questions - u the best man for this.

Just trying to help carl and don't see why u need to freshen up that bore as that car/mtr hasn't many miles and u could do more harm than good by rehoning those cyls and replacing brgs.
Do leak-down and compression tests to verify cyls condition. Leakdown tells u like right now if cyl(s) bad and compression tells u wether rings or vlvs. But my money is on the vlv seals on ur pampered shark.

Good luck and have fun window shopping for performance heads. cardo0

 

burning or leaking ?????

 

from what i understand the problem is in the bronze valve guides,, as the car warms up they expand allowing a puff when foot is lifted off gas pedal crusing down highway,doesnt smoke at startup but shows traces as engine warms up, engine was built by a circle track engine builder so we were gonna re hone it &re ring it. from what i understand there using 1 moly ring w/ 1 iron ring per piston,,im wondering if the circle track builder used both molly rings,,,was gonna remove bronze guides and replace with the steel but now im leaning to new heads just for the power gain

 

I have put some time into researching Small Block Chevrolet cylinder heads lately. From what I can see the AFR 180 street heads are the best all around head for anything but a dedicated race car. They are expensive, but they're worth it.

BigBlockk

Later.....

 

Carl,i have the brodix track 1x heads on my 74r 383.....they are extensively ported and give turbine like torque(lots of it low down with a very flat torque curve)the rpm airgap takes a bit of effort to port match but is well worth the effort.....i have 700r4 with 3.08 diff and currently holley 750 vac sec carb.....makes 339rwhp but is very tractable,also drags and autocross all on street tires....if i was going all out for engine i would probably do with 18* heads....hey,it's only $$$$$$$$..........john

 

Look no further than the AFR's Salle chevrolet uses them. It appears they work great on their motors

 

i think i am going with the edelbrock preformer r.p.m. cylinder heads 64 cc..roller tip rockers and the .001 longer hardened pushrods should bump her up 30 to 50 hp

 

I have a 383 in my car now. It has the RPM heads 70cc chambers RPM intake 750dp mech secondaries -6 fuel line set-up,crane roller 1.5 rockers, new springs, shims, 10 degree locks and retainers,vto valve seals on heads. I'm looking to sell these Items if your interested. I would like to sell all of it together,it makes for nice package.

The bottom end has a knock so I'll part that out when I find the bad part.

I can include the push rods too they are the trick flow brand that summit or jegs sells.

New these parts cost almost $2000.00, hows $1150.00 sound to you.


Here is a video and sound of the motor http://media.putfile.com/Corvette-fun

 

I've got Vortec heads running a 212/218 cam on my '71. It's a 383 that makes 420 lb/ft and 360hp. The torque curve is flat at 400+ from 2000-4500 or so. Very streetable wth a 2000 stall converter, a real blast in my daily driver. The thing pulls hard whenever you push the loud pedal. I've got a 770 street avenger which is a little big. It really depends on what you want to do with it. I figure on the street you drive torque and brag about horsepower, on the track it's the other way around. Since mine is a street car, I went with the torque.

 

Hi Carl,
How's it going? Wrote a massive post yesterday but it seems to have disappeared?
The way I see it is that there's plenty of engines around that have plenty of oil getting to the tops of the guides but deccent seals keep it from getting down the guides, so maybe the AFR "problem" is down to poor guide seals? I was looking at getting some AFR 180 heads (I even ordered a set TWICE!) & did a lot of reading on the Net, etc. Gkull has had problems with oil, as have other people on other forums. But there's a lot more people reporting no problems at all, so maybe it is just a seal problem? I spoke to AFR back in March/April time & they said a new design of head was due for release in the autumn (fall) so that should be around about now. But would you want to be one of the first to buy a new design of head? When the new head appears (if it hasn't already) there could be a stack of the old design being sold off at reduced prices? I chose the 180 as the flow was almost the same as the 195 (on the intake) up to the valve lifts I'm using (flow rates at higher lifts are meaningless). I figured that getting the same flow rate with smaller ports would fill the cylinders just as well, but the gas velocity will be higher due to the smaller port, so there should be better low end torque & throttle response (important for street use). Anyway, after twice waiting the 3 months delivery time & both times finding that the supplier had screwed up, I cancelled the order & tried to buy my second choice of heads - Trick Flow 23 deg ones. These heads look good value for money, have a good rep & apparently work well on a 383. I can't remember why they appealed to me above other options, but they were a close second choice to AFR180s (I was after a flat torque curve, a CR that wouldn't risk pinging on poor quality fuel, big increase in mid-range power & an improvement in top end but not at the expense of low down grunt ie. perfect for normal street use. AFR180s & TFS23 degs came up top of the list).
The only reason I didn't consider Edel heads is that everybody & their dog seems to have them here & I wanted to be different My economics went along the lines of "Hey, I can buy a set of AFR or TFS heads from the US & get them cheaper than a set of Performers would cost me here!". People here with Edel heads really rate them - maybe actually getting the damn things delivered after ordering them is part of the user satisfaction?

 

what kind of h.p. did you make with your stroker? all i would be interested in is the heads (im kinda in favor of the 64 cc),pushrods and roller rockers,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Paul,,its a ring seating problem in my 383 so it has to come out,,i want it right,,as far as heads ,,doesnt make much sense leaving those oil ones on while the motors out,so i might as well get a little h.p. outta the deal!! hows your garage coming ??