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"dinging" ceramic coated headers

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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 03:24 PM
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Default "dinging" ceramic coated headers

Anyone had any experience with having to dent ceramic coated headers? I have added Flowtech headers to my 77 with vortec heads and the number 6 plug (with the special short Accel plugs) still barely misses the header pipe. I can't put a plug wire on it without the boot contacting the pipe. Anyone ever had to put a dent into ceramic coated headers, or have any other ideas for this?
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 03:38 PM
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My headers had to be "hammer tuned" to clear the stearing box. No adverse effects after 4 years. I would say that if you don't go crazy, you can get away with a little adjustment. However, if you get discoloration at the spot you pinged, you went too far. The worst case scenario would be having to have them recoated. This is why a lot of people recomend fitting before coating, which, of coarse, is just the oposite of what I did!
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by teniselbow
Anyone had any experience with having to dent ceramic coated headers? I have added Flowtech headers to my 77 with vortec heads and the number 6 plug (with the special short Accel plugs) still barely misses the header pipe. I can't put a plug wire on it without the boot contacting the pipe. Anyone ever had to put a dent into ceramic coated headers, or have any other ideas for this?
I had the same problem with my #6 plug and my ceramic coated Super Comp.s. I have Tayolr spiral wires which have huge boots. I got away with shaving the side of the boot and using shorty plugs from Accel.
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 04:38 PM
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Default wires with thick boots

I've gotten some MSD wires with thick boots. I assume yours is like mine, where the boot will be in constant contact with the pipe. Has the boot held up to this?
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 04:48 PM
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Why can't header manufacturers design their headers for clearance on the #6 header? I know heads are all different, but I see a trend here... I had to dent #6 on my Hedmann headers TWICE, once for my angle plug Iron Eagles, and once again in a slightly different plane for my new straight plug Pro 1's. (which I hoped would allow the plug to clear the header )

Both times I took it slow, C-clamping a bolt into the tube to dent it and managed not to crack the ceramic coating.

FYI:
NGK makes a shorty plug alternative to Accel.

I have heard nothing good about the Accel plugs (4 strong non-recommends from local racers), and had constant problems with the pin that clips into the plug boot coming unscrewed with them.

Bob
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by teniselbow
I've gotten some MSD wires with thick boots. I assume yours is like mine, where the boot will be in constant contact with the pipe. Has the boot held up to this?
Yes the boot is holding up well, I check the wires in the dark every so often and no problems yet. As to the tip of the accel plug, a drop of locktite is all you need.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenoir
FYI:
NGK makes a shorty plug alternative to Accel.

I have heard nothing good about the Accel plugs (4 strong non-recommends from local racers), and had constant problems with the pin that clips into the plug boot coming unscrewed with them.

Bob
Is there a direct crossover to compare part numbers? I'm using the Accel and would like an alternative.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 11:52 AM
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try taylor CERAMIC boots. The plug boot is an actual creamic boot. Works fine on my number 3 prob area
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 03:13 PM
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Question is : Why dont headears have enough plug and boot clearance at first place????
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 03:49 PM
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get some jacobs ceramics, they won't mind hitting the headerrs. They are expensive but hammering a dent in a header isn't a very appealing solution either if you ask me.
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 04:50 PM
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Sidepipes
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 08:31 PM
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i have hedmanns with ceramic coating, 1" 5/8 primary tubes, and i dented several tubes where the socket fits on the bolt head, and next to the idler arm, but im no where near any spark boots or wires. ----??
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