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Rearend Removal

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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 08:17 PM
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Default Rearend Removal

I am removing my rearend from my 77 strictly for undercarriage refinishing. I took off the shocks and rear spring and spring mounting plate. I took the nuts off of both outboard side strut rods and My questions are does the casting that the lower shock and strut bolt nut attaches to does it just pound out or is there a secret to removing the castings. I tapped on them with a rubber mallet and they would not budge so I sprayed penetrating oil on them to soak the night and now asking for info. Alsothe differential cover has two bolts comming down from the top and it looks to me like if I remove the cross bar that has two bolts installed that the differential and cover will drop down. Thanks for any help
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 08:40 PM
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You need to drop the diff. cross-member to remove the diff. You need 1 of these to remove the shock mount: Eckler has this shock mount removal nut.

Last edited by big_G; Nov 20, 2005 at 08:43 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 09:23 PM
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Big G looking at the picture you posted and looking in my Ecklers catalog It looks like just a thicker nut and you beat on that removal nut. Do you think if I used two nuts threaded on the shaft if it would work in the same way? thanks
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 09:46 PM
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The tool has a beefier make-up, and bottoms out on the mount end, so the load of impact is on the end, not on the threads....Buy the tool, you will get to use it more than once..lol
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:06 PM
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I can tell you from personal experience that beating on a regular nut does not work. I wasted the end of the shock mount. Get the tool or buy a replacement shock mount.

Last edited by Frankenvette; Nov 20, 2005 at 10:26 PM.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:22 PM
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I wish I would have known that this morning. I don't think it would have worked for me the inner sleeve of the strut rod bushing was rusted th the shock mount. I used a torch, and cut the end of the strut rod (i was going to replace them anyway) to remove the mount.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 06:38 AM
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thread another correct size nut halfway on and then thread another bolt in and snug it up. now you can beat the end of the bolt with a hammer. I made this "tool" 10 yrs ago for less than $1.50, used it several times and it is still in my toolbox.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary79
thread another correct size nut halfway on and then thread another bolt in and snug it up. now you can beat the end of the bolt with a hammer. I made this "tool" 10 yrs ago for less than $1.50, used it several times and it is still in my toolbox.

That's the way I did it. Not only does it cost less but the nut and bolt can be picked up at the hardware store. No waiting a few days for UPS/Fedex to show up.
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There was no way my shock mounts were going to come out, no matter how much pounding I did, I just cut the damn things out.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 09:25 AM
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I had to cut mine as well. The metal sleeve in the lower shock bushing became perminently "Welded" to the lower shock mount. This made it impossible to properly remove the lower shock mount.
I purchased a couple of refurbished lower shock mounts from Bairs.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by big_G
You need to drop the diff. cross-member to remove the diff. You need 1 of these to remove the shock mount: Eckler has this shock mount removal nut.

I make these.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 10:47 AM
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I am at work now on break I placed two nuts on a bolt and threaded them together and then welded them together and when I get home I will try to get the castings out. What I welded looks exactly like ecklers is selling.
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