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Destroying starters. Any suggestions?

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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:05 PM
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Default Destroying starters. Any suggestions?

Did a hi-perf rebuild on the stock L-48 w/automatic. With the TRW forged pistons, I figure she's running about 9.5 or 10 to 1 compression. Also did the other normal upgrades, cam, manifold, headers and had the stock heads tweeked a bit.

Problem is that I cannot get a starter to last very long. Either the gears break or some other failure takes place. Not to mention my flywheel teeth are a bit chewed up now.

Can anyone pleeeeese help with a suggestion. These $50 rebuilt starters are not cutting it.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:08 PM
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Make sure you are using the correct starter bolts, and shim the starter if necessary. Once the flywheel is chewed up, it's gonna make life miserable for the next starter....
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by big_G
Make sure you are using the correct starter bolts, and shim the starter if necessary. Once the flywheel is chewed up, it's gonna make life miserable for the next starter....
You may also want to try using a high torque gear reduction starter.
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:27 PM
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I knew about shimming but how do I determine if it is required? Using the stock, original bolts. Thanks, Tom
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Old Nov 20, 2005 | 10:48 PM
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I usually do it by sound. The shims are available at most auto parts stores. You don't even have to remove the starter completly to shim it. You just need to remove one bolt, and losen the other. I install enough shims until the starter sounds like it is engaging freely without binding against the flywheel. there is a procedure in the service manual that describes the amount of lash between the starter bendix, and the ring gear.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 06:01 AM
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I had a similar issue years ago. I used the shims went through several different bolts trying to figure why I could not get a starter to last. I finally went out and purchased the rear starter-mounting bracket and never had another prob. with it. It was only a few bucks so it may be worth a try if you don’t already have one.
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 06:31 AM
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use a 1/8th inch drill bit or allen wrench set between the teeth in the starter and the flywheel. this will give you the proper clearance between the teeth, and then shim the bolts. this procedure was pretty well standard on all GM's, not sure about the newer GMs, but will definitely work on on our C3s
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 08:45 AM
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An 1/8", 0.125", may be a little too much. Here is a .pdf showing a clearance of 0.020"-0.025".
http://www.jegs.com/instructions/555...1-04-20-40.pdf
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 11:50 AM
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You should also check to make sure the starter is getting enough power. My starter destroyed itself because the wiring to the starter solenoid was shot. If the connection to the solenoid is not good, the solenoid may not be able to push the gear out all the way. The gear may also move in and out as the connection varies. I bought a new, high torque, starter when mine failed. It didn't work either until I rewired the solenoid. I would definitly check the wiring as well.

Ken
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by waterplay
I had a similar issue years ago. I used the shims went through several different bolts trying to figure why I could not get a starter to last. I finally went out and purchased the rear starter-mounting bracket and never had another prob. with it. It was only a few bucks so it may be worth a try if you don’t already have one.

Along with proper shimming
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Old Nov 21, 2005 | 03:53 PM
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Has this ran yet?? If this is cranking real hard, What kind of valve springs are in the heads, chances are your coil binding the springs. And yes, use the rear starter bracket. A $50.00 rebuilt starter cranks my 11:1 454 no problem!!!

Last edited by pauvil; Nov 21, 2005 at 03:57 PM.
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