On the list of winter projects is to replace all my U Joints. My 80 is pretty much stock and I don't ever race or get on it too hard. Why would you use solid instead of greasable?
Is this only a strength issue? Any advice would be appreciated.

Kona

 

In your case I would use the greasables. Just remember to grease them! Strength is the only reason to use non-greaseables.

 

I normally use Spicer HD zerkless, but I had a set of TRW's w/zerks that I used on my 325 hp 72. They should be ok but I haven't driven the car yet either. I only used them because I had them in stock otherwise I would used the Spicers. My 4 spd cars have spicers.

Gary

 

Thank's for the info guy's.

Kona

 

Another reason why I like non-greaseable over greaseable is b/c they don't throw grease all over the place. Cleaner and stronger,

 

Stronger and I found the tolerances are a lot more precise than the greasable. Check your local Yellow Pages for a Drive-shaft Service and they should have them in stock for around $20 each. They can also swap them out for you if you take the shafts in, probably for around $5 each labor. If you do it be careful with the Half-shaft flanges they will bend easily.
Spicer Life Part# SPL30-1X for Half-Shafts and SPL25-1X for driveshaft.

 

I installed all new U-joints on my '73 in 1991. I used the solid joints which I probably purchased from one of the Forum vendors (that's who I purchased all of my other suspension stuff from). I used them because I had heard so much talk about the inherent weakness of the greaseable U-joints. They were good U-joints and installed with no problems. I autocrossed this car regularlyfor the next 3 years. I then stored the car for 3 more years.

In 2001 decided to do a frame off on the car for other reasons. I had probably put a total of 10k miles on it since installing the new joints in 1991. What I found when removing the half-shafts was that 2 of the joints were dry and would only twist with great difficulty. I decided then that I would use greaseable joints in the future. I found new joints that incorporated the zerk fitting in one of the bearing end caps. They have a plug in them until you want to grease them at which point you install a zerk fitting. (Which I remove when finished.) This not only eliminates the slinging of grease, it also eliminates the inherent weakness previous U-joints had. I now grease them once a year and have experienced no problems.

As most probably know, but might be worth repeating, U-joints with the cross-mounted grease fitting have a preferred method for installation. The joint should be installed so that the part of the joint where the fitting is installed experiences predominantly compression (i.e. when the vehicle is moving forward). This reduces the stress on the U-joint and will minimize chances of the joint breaking. I know some others here have experienced breakage, (and have great photos to prove it) but my only experience with U-joint failure in more than 30 years has been from a lack of lubrication.

Good luck... GUSTO

 

Stuart, I put the zerkless "Brute Force" u-joints in my car. They've held up just fine so far with my 350 H.O.
A side note: All the U-joints on my newer vehicles are zerkless, along with most other moving parts. Why add another maintenance point if you don't really need it.

 

Thanks for everyones advice. I did the easy thing I took alittle advice from everyone and bought U-Joints that have the zerks in the end that have a cap for when not needing to service them.
This way I don't have grease being slung around but yet I can still grease them should I get the urge and want to do it.
Thank's again for everyones help.

Kona

 

[QUOTE=jdmick]Stuart, I put the zerkless "Brute Force" u-joints in my car. They've held up just fine so farQUOTE]

Me to, but mine have ZERKS. I power brake all the time, slam gears all the time, and treat the car the way it should be ran, for a street car, and I still dont have any problems.

Now what does worry me is, the 6/speed I am installing
But I do have a 4/speed rear end (bigger shafts)