My car is an '82 CE with excessive play in power steering so I install a Van Steel front end rebuild kit- the works. Controls arm bushings top and bottom, upper & lower ball joints, T/R ends, idler arm, sway bar bushings and links and the play is still there. So I go to see where the alignment ended up after the rebuild....ask them to check for free play in the steering box and coupler. They call and tell me there is play in the steering cylinder, but they can't find one locally. That's fine as I can replace that cheaper myself so I go to pick the car up- no charge as they don't want to align it until they get the play out...that's cool. They also want to show me where the play is while my car is on the rack. The alignment guy says it's NOT the cylinder but points at the pitman stud and valve assembly and says that is where all the play is.

Question is this. Other than the pitman arm ball stud (is it replaceable by itself) does this sound plausible from you guys who are in the know? Car has 69K miles on it and has about 1.5-2" of dead play at the top of the steering wheel at center. The valve itself wouldn't mechanincally have play where it mount to the center section would it? They tell me the PS cylinder, gear box, and rag coupler are fine...all the mechanical play is at the valve/ pitman connecting point. Sorry for rambling, but before I go and replace the whole valve and all the nulling of the steering system hydraulics, I'd like to hear some opinions from Yooz guys...

Bill

 

I went through the same thing with my front end. I replaced everything only to find the play in the valve. Most of it will go away when the system is pressurized (engine running) so don't panic. The problem is that there is always going to be some play there since it is a valve and needs to move. A new valve may have a little less play if you want to spend the time and money on one. Maybe the resident guru Jim Shea will have more to say.

 

More likely the play is in the gear box.

 

Most of it will go away when the system is pressurized (engine running) so don't panic. The problem is that there is always going to be some play there since it is a valve and needs to move.

Yes, but the real play (in the steering) is there and is excessive so I still need to solve it. I don't believe what I have is by design. I need to know if just the pitman arm ball stud can be obtained by itself or a while new valve assm. ?? The stud assm. seems to saddle the valve and maybe can be replaced seperately?? I dunno, but the wander has to be caused somewhere or the general would have had a hard time selling these thigs back in '82

 

Jim Shea has lots of info on steering valves etc. over at corvettefaq.com. If your car has a wandering problem I would make sure it has about 1/4" of toe in.

 

Why don't you try to adjust the steering gear to see if you can eliminate most of the free play. This is a link to a paper that describes adjusting the gear without removing it from the car. Even if it doesn't eliminate all of the free play it may also give you some direction as to the problem.

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/GearAd...-Rev02AU05.doc

BTW, I think that there used to be a service kit for the ball stud that comes out of the control valve. You might still find a rebuild kit at one of our Corvette suppliers.

Good luck,
Jim Shea

 

Jim, thanks for the input. Of all the things that can cause free play, I just wanted some feedback before I ran off and bought a bunch of expensive-possibly hard to find- parts. I was not able to see the free play for myself. With only 69K on the odometer, I would suspect any of the pieces I replaced or steering box/coupler first, but what the heck...if the pitman ball by itself can be had, I'd buy one. If I do replace the steering control valve, does a new pitman ball come with it?

Thanks for all the input..I welcome it and will read the link!

Bill

 

Either new or rebuilt control valves come with the stud as part of the valve.

You should place your car on a drive-on hoist if possible. Have someone in the car rotate the steering wheel back and forth over center. Take a look at the various pivot locations on your linkage. Look closely at the flexible coupling. Look at the input shaft movement versus the pitman arm motion. With the engine off, there will be noticeable movement of the ball stud where it enters the control valve. With the engine on, there will be very little apparent motion.

You should check the condition of your rear suspension. Highway wander can be caused by worn components back there as well.

Have a happy turkey day,
Jim Shea

 

Ok Jim, last question I promise If it were your car, what alignment specs would you tell them to shoot for when all else is fixed? There have been several comments about 1/4" toe in etc.. Give me your best guess please.

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!

Bill

 

Over the last 5 years I have replaced every part of the steering and front end in my 73.
Bushings, tie rod ends, idler arm were the first to be changed, this tightened it up a little but the steering was still not tight. Next was the rag joint, which helped a little more but not enough. A few months later I put in a brand new steering box and this made it acceptable, but there was still a little slop so I rebuilt the leaking control valve and it got just a tiny bit better, but I still had several degrees of play at the steering wheel.
Last month the control valve started leaking again so I bit the bullet and bought a kit with a brand new control valve, new hoses, and a new ram. That did the trick, my steering now has absolutely no slop in it.

I think I should have replaced the control valve at the same time as the bushings and tie rod ends, because my old steering box probably could have been adjusted.

 

I always thought that you needed some play in the steering wheel 1"-2".Is that wrong? I have repaced ALL of my steering and I have an inch or two play. I don't like it but I have it. Should I adjust it till it has no play?

 

All of my Chevrolet shop manuals specify the following front alignment service settings for power steering equipped C3 Corvettes with a full tank of gas.

Chevrolet recommended alignment settings:
Front
*Caster +2 ¼ degrees +/- ½ degree
*Camber +3/4 degree +/- ½ degree
Toe-in (total) 3/16” to 5/16”
* Must be within ½ degree of opposite side.

Vette Brakes & Products Inc. recommends more caster and less toe-in.
Front
Caster + 2 ¾ degrees +/- ½ degree With stock upper control arms.
Caster + 4 ½ degrees +/- ½ degree With VB&P HD offset control arms.
Camber + 0 degree + ¼ – 0 degree
Toe-in 1/32” +/- 1/32”
This is best for all steel radial tires with more negative camber, it provides increasing stiffness in turning.
Never use negative caster or positive camber!


The Chevrolet recommended rear alignment settings did change between 1971, 1975, and 1982. My best guess would be the change to radial tire construction through the years. I would think that with modern tires the 1982 specs are probably best.
Rear 1982
Camber 0 degree +/-1/2
Toe-in .06 degree +/- .06
(each wheel)

Vette Brakes & Products Inc. recommendations:
Rear
Camber all years 1963-82 0 – ½ degree Negative
Toe-in all years 1963-82 1/8” total toe + 1/32 – 0 inch.

My thanks to Mr. Robin Wilkie of Vette Brakes & Products Inc who provided the VB&P recommendations.

 

Quite a difference in toe-in specs between GM and VBP. I think I'll stick with GM unless there is someone who wants to chime in why less toe in is better. Well, thanks to the valuable help (again) from this forum, I saved money, time and frustration. The guy at the alignment shop realized his mistake in checking Pitman play with car NOT running. He put it on the lift again while I was there and there is no excessive play in the control valve mount, with car running. However, he did find I left the idler arm lower nut loose...damn me! I must have gotten tired..play is gone! Steering is awful tight though as in "does not feel like power steering" tight. Hope it will loosen a little as all the new parts wear in and the alignment now gets done.

Thanks folks.

Bill

 

this is exactly why i went to the Steeroids and now its down to 1/4" play.....