383 Stroker - advice??
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: KC Kansas
383 Stroker - advice??
Hey guys. I am new to engine overhauls and builds. I am having a problem deciding on what 383 stroker to buy. I have a local shop offering to build me a stroker, assemble the bottom, balance it and prep it for me for about $2500. Thats including Eagle forged crank. I am wondering what kind of deal im getting. I have found numerous strokers on Ebay and wondering what you all thought. Here is the link to one I found.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-H...temZ7987728283
Please let me know what you all think like headers, intake, etc
And what I should ask this builder to do to make sure I dont get screwed.
Thank you very much for all your help so far.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-H...temZ7987728283
Please let me know what you all think like headers, intake, etc
And what I should ask this builder to do to make sure I dont get screwed.
Thank you very much for all your help so far.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
The ebay $3300 383 has a CAST crank (~$150), OE chevy 5.7 rods (~$100), good but cheaper cam (<$75), decent but cheaper Al heads (~$800/pr complete) ... so far, safe to presume the pistons are also cheaper flattops (<$175).
You might not like 11:1 CR ... even with aluminum heads ... depends on how you'll use it.
If your local shop will build a balanced, prepped 383 short block w/ forged crank for $2500 ... it's a no-brainer ... buy local.
Otherwise, send me the $3300 ... I can duplicate the ebay motor for you ... plus mine'll be ALL forged ... better rods, better pistons & your choice of compression ratio.
You might not like 11:1 CR ... even with aluminum heads ... depends on how you'll use it.
If your local shop will build a balanced, prepped 383 short block w/ forged crank for $2500 ... it's a no-brainer ... buy local.
Otherwise, send me the $3300 ... I can duplicate the ebay motor for you ... plus mine'll be ALL forged ... better rods, better pistons & your choice of compression ratio.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,387
Likes: 2
From: Meriden CT
If you do go through with the engine, be sure to use Poly motor mounts. My 383 ripped brand new CarQuest replacments after my first donut.
Sounds like you should go local. also check out engines from AR Racing on Ebay. There are a bunch of AR motors on this forum, sounds like people have had good luck with them.
Sounds like you should go local. also check out engines from AR Racing on Ebay. There are a bunch of AR motors on this forum, sounds like people have had good luck with them.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
Likes: 5
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
I agree w/Jackson
I am using an Eagle (all) forged Bottom End with 6 inch H-Beam rods and 10:1 pistons. Never looked back! I built the bottom end to handle a lot more power than it 's making now.
When the CA smog laws are eased or if I get 'historical plates' (already using Classic insurance), then I'm going to go the Aluminum Heads route and make some more mods to the engine. Right now I'm delivering a tad under 275HP at the wheels and 340 ft.Pounds of torque. My target is on the North side of 325 at the wheels, which is going to mean well over 400 at the crank.
And my bottom end will do that just fine. That would be my recommendation to you too: Don't buy anything with a cast crank if you drive it hard like I do. I tend to drive the poop outta my hot rods so I always over-engineer the bottom end when I do a motor.
I am using an Eagle (all) forged Bottom End with 6 inch H-Beam rods and 10:1 pistons. Never looked back! I built the bottom end to handle a lot more power than it 's making now.
When the CA smog laws are eased or if I get 'historical plates' (already using Classic insurance), then I'm going to go the Aluminum Heads route and make some more mods to the engine. Right now I'm delivering a tad under 275HP at the wheels and 340 ft.Pounds of torque. My target is on the North side of 325 at the wheels, which is going to mean well over 400 at the crank.
And my bottom end will do that just fine. That would be my recommendation to you too: Don't buy anything with a cast crank if you drive it hard like I do. I tend to drive the poop outta my hot rods so I always over-engineer the bottom end when I do a motor.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 4
From: Va
I would recommend someone that dynos the
engine before they ship it to you. This allows it to break in the cam, check for problems, oil leaks, etc. and provide you a dyno report showing hp/tq ratings.
I purhcased my 383 stroker from an engine builder near Charlotte, N.C and was able to go onsite to watch it dynoed.
Check em out at this website:
http://www.tandlengine.com/ Talk to Lloyd McLeary the owner , great guy to work with. Tell him Larry in Richmond, Va. recommended him.
I believe their price is still around $3300 for the 383 Stroker.
I purhcased my 383 stroker from an engine builder near Charlotte, N.C and was able to go onsite to watch it dynoed.
Check em out at this website:
http://www.tandlengine.com/ Talk to Lloyd McLeary the owner , great guy to work with. Tell him Larry in Richmond, Va. recommended him.
I believe their price is still around $3300 for the 383 Stroker.
