Rear Suspension Rebuild
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Bernie, did you rebuild the rear diff also? Mine is leaking from the half shafts and is making a mess. I am thinking I need to jump on this one now so I don't get caught this spring.
Nice looking work BTW. How is the tranny coming along?
Nice looking work BTW. How is the tranny coming along?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Thanks guys!
Eddie, All I did to the diff was reseal it and install a new rear cover; mine was cracked. The seals for the yokes are pretty easy. Just remove the clips holding the yokes in, pull them out and replace the seals. You have to turn the gears a little to line up the opsition for the retainers.
Bernie
Eddie, All I did to the diff was reseal it and install a new rear cover; mine was cracked. The seals for the yokes are pretty easy. Just remove the clips holding the yokes in, pull them out and replace the seals. You have to turn the gears a little to line up the opsition for the retainers.
Bernie
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Eddie,
I will install the T5 tranny tomorrow and will have pics for it as well. The rear crank seal is leaking so I will replace it after I get the tranny in and the rear support installed. Norval gave me directions on how to post pictures and am still working on that right now.
Bernie
I will install the T5 tranny tomorrow and will have pics for it as well. The rear crank seal is leaking so I will replace it after I get the tranny in and the rear support installed. Norval gave me directions on how to post pictures and am still working on that right now.
Bernie
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Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 19,659
Likes: 34
From: Lenoir City Tennessee
Ci 6, 8 & 10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Sounds easy enough to change out the seals. I may have to jump on this one pretty soon. Thanks for the tips.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Buffalo New York
Looks great!!!
I have everything out except the trailing arms on my '77, which I will be cutting out tonight or tomorrow. Then it will be time to start rebuilding everything...
Good luck with the rest of your project
Chris
I have everything out except the trailing arms on my '77, which I will be cutting out tonight or tomorrow. Then it will be time to start rebuilding everything...
Good luck with the rest of your project
Chris
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Vette Gator,
The disassembly wasn't that hard. The hardest things were the trailing arm bolts which I had to cut out with a sawsall. Even using a removal tool, I could not get the shock mounts removed from the trailing arms so I removed the struts along with the trailing arms and disassembled them later. The only thing I want to do to the rear end is install a rear sway bar. It does tend to roll a little in hard turns and I want just enough roll bar to flatten the roll a little without getting too much over steer.
With the transmission swap complete, I will have almost all the drive train and suspension the way I want it for my driving habits. The primary reasons for swapping the auto for a straight shift was to remove a lot of heat from under the car, lower the RPMs to around 2200 at 70 MPH with the 3:55 rear gears, and of course improved gas mileage when taking trips in the car.
Again, thanks to all those on the forum for your advice, expertise and friendship!
Bernie
The disassembly wasn't that hard. The hardest things were the trailing arm bolts which I had to cut out with a sawsall. Even using a removal tool, I could not get the shock mounts removed from the trailing arms so I removed the struts along with the trailing arms and disassembled them later. The only thing I want to do to the rear end is install a rear sway bar. It does tend to roll a little in hard turns and I want just enough roll bar to flatten the roll a little without getting too much over steer.
With the transmission swap complete, I will have almost all the drive train and suspension the way I want it for my driving habits. The primary reasons for swapping the auto for a straight shift was to remove a lot of heat from under the car, lower the RPMs to around 2200 at 70 MPH with the 3:55 rear gears, and of course improved gas mileage when taking trips in the car.
Again, thanks to all those on the forum for your advice, expertise and friendship!
Bernie
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: Burlington Ontario
Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Vette Gator,
The disassembly wasn't that hard. The hardest things were the trailing arm bolts which I had to cut out with a sawsall. Even using a removal tool, I could not get the shock mounts removed from the trailing arms so I removed the struts along with the trailing arms and disassembled them later. The only thing I want to do to the rear end is install a rear sway bar. It does tend to roll a little in hard turns and I want just enough roll bar to flatten the roll a little without getting too much over steer.
With the transmission swap complete, I will have almost all the drive train and suspension the way I want it for my driving habits. The primary reasons for swapping the auto for a straight shift was to remove a lot of heat from under the car, lower the RPMs to around 2200 at 70 MPH with the 3:55 rear gears, and of course improved gas mileage when taking trips in the car.
Again, thanks to all those on the forum for your advice, expertise and friendship!
Bernie
The disassembly wasn't that hard. The hardest things were the trailing arm bolts which I had to cut out with a sawsall. Even using a removal tool, I could not get the shock mounts removed from the trailing arms so I removed the struts along with the trailing arms and disassembled them later. The only thing I want to do to the rear end is install a rear sway bar. It does tend to roll a little in hard turns and I want just enough roll bar to flatten the roll a little without getting too much over steer.
With the transmission swap complete, I will have almost all the drive train and suspension the way I want it for my driving habits. The primary reasons for swapping the auto for a straight shift was to remove a lot of heat from under the car, lower the RPMs to around 2200 at 70 MPH with the 3:55 rear gears, and of course improved gas mileage when taking trips in the car.
Again, thanks to all those on the forum for your advice, expertise and friendship!
Bernie
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Jeffski,
I had thought about the adjustable struts and saw a lot of posts where the nuts lossened and would not stay tight. I think I could remedy that and when I am ready to install a rear anti sway bar I may spring for the adj struts too. The stock struts were no problem to rebush and adjust. I had both of mine within a degree each when I had them aligned; and they do not change adjustment after they are set. Again, for my driving the stock ones are good for now. The rear of the car is much tighter than before, sits level, has a comfortable but firm ride and will do until I finish some other upgrades I want to do.
Bernie
I had thought about the adjustable struts and saw a lot of posts where the nuts lossened and would not stay tight. I think I could remedy that and when I am ready to install a rear anti sway bar I may spring for the adj struts too. The stock struts were no problem to rebush and adjust. I had both of mine within a degree each when I had them aligned; and they do not change adjustment after they are set. Again, for my driving the stock ones are good for now. The rear of the car is much tighter than before, sits level, has a comfortable but firm ride and will do until I finish some other upgrades I want to do.
Bernie