My headlights went down finally but now I'd like to get them to raise on their own. I'm a lazy ***, what can I say?

So what is the most common cause for headlight lift failure? And with a big cam will I ever make enough vacuum to lift the lights or am I wasting time and money?

Sorry for asking so many questions but I'm placing an order soon and want to get it all at once.

 

If I remember correctly, it took approx. 7-10 lbs of vacuum to pull them up (I was trying to figure out if I had a vacuum leak, and put a vacuum pump to them to get them to go up and down).

The system SHOULD fail in the open position; if it's not opening at all, start with how the hoses are connected (they may be reversed at the vacuum override switch), and then go for the vacuum actuator relay..

 

Where the vacuum override switch?

 

Wheres the vacuum override switch?

 

Should be one of the pull down switches under the steering column.


Here is a good link to troubleshooting the vaccum system. Look for the link called Vaccum Trouble on the upper left.
http://www.corvette-101.com/

 

Look back over the past weeks threads. I posted a quesiton about a big cam and headlights, you may find some answers there. The consensus of opinion was that the cam was not the problem with my headlights not going up. Some people have pretty big cams and the headlights still function.

 

Probably the seals and boot on the front of the actuator. Easy fix.

 

It doesn't take much vaccum to operate the lights. I aslo suspect its the seal and boot at the front of the actuator.

I've suggested this in the past. Easy way to check the actuators for total seal failure. Locate the distribution valve in the front center, you will see two hoses going to the left actuator and two hoses going to the right actuator. Of the two hoses one operates the front of the actuator and the other the rear. The rear seal in the actuator is internal and not serviceable. The front seal is serviceable and available through Ecklers for about $8. Locate the hose that goes to the front of the actuator. Disconnect it from the distribution valve, blow into it or suck air out...one of these two actions causes the light to go up (its been a while...can't remember). If the seal at the front is good you should feel resistance. If the seal is no good it will be like blowing through a straw. Since the engine is not running you should also hear the air coming out if there is a leak.

If you find the front actuator seals are good. Do the same on the hose running to the back. if you find there is no resistance on the rear seal you will need to replace the actuator. The seal is internal and not accessible. This seal seldomly goes.

Here is what the seal looks like. It goes on the rod that comes out of the front of the actuator.

http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...dept%5Fid=1476

if you find the actuators are good. Check the lines. Check the distribution valve. Check the canister (looks like a big coffee tin located in front of the distribution valve.

Jim

 

You can always go electric and get rid of all that vacuum crap.

 

I was reading into that, but for an overall price of about $700 ouch. I'll stick with my sucky vacuum setup.