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Flywheel/Starter Issue

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Old Nov 25, 2005 | 08:54 AM
  #1  
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From: GA
Default Flywheel/Starter Issue

Hi all,
First off... Happy Holidays.

Now... to my issue... I installed a high torque starter during my body off rebuild and I (yes me... not bubba) installed it incorrectly. I did not have it shimed correctly. Hence, the starter gear got chewed up a little. I replaced the starter with a regular Delco starter and everything seemed fine. Well, now it seems as the flywheel has some teeth that may be affected as well. Sometimes when I start the car, I hear a real bad grinding sound. The new starter does not have any shims so I am pretty sure the mesh is correct. Yesterday, when I started it... it just grinded so I stepped on the clutch and moved the car then I popped it to move the flywheel position. This worked but the starting procedure is horrible... whaa whaa whaa whaa ... grind.... whaa whaa whaa grind...

IS MY FLYWHEEL NOW SCRAPE? DAMN IT.. I just got it all back together! How the hell can I fix this with out dropping the trans? I am almost certain some teeth on the flywheel are chewed as when I put it back together this summer is was somewhat marginal. But I thought there was enough meat on the teeth to be okay.

Also, isn't is a PITA to remove the trans with the motor in? Not sure I can move the Muncie back far enough to get to the flywheel for replacement. Is is possible to repair the section of flywheel with the trans still hooked up? I can't see how this is possible. UUUGGGHHHH...

Would it be easier to just pull the engine back out and fix it this way? I remember trying to line up the clutch and shaft with the body off and I still had a tough time. I can't image trying to do this laying under a the Corvette on jack stands!!!!!!!!

Last edited by Mr.Gearhead; Nov 25, 2005 at 08:57 AM.
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Old Nov 25, 2005 | 09:04 AM
  #2  
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Bite the bullet. You need to pull the trans., clutch and flywheel. Don't shoot me, I'm only the messenger. Shim the starter if necessary. The starter should have instructions on how to do this.
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Old Nov 25, 2005 | 09:23 AM
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I not totaly sure of your flywheel, but some have a removeable ring gear that can be replaced.

Here are some instructions on how to install and shim a starter.
http://www.jegs.com/instructions/555...1-04-20-40.pdf
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 08:32 AM
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lesson learned. I should have replaced the damn flywheel when I had everything apart. It seemed marginal when I put it on but I thought it would be okay. Incorrectly installing the first starter compounded the issue. I am going to drop the 2nd starter and look at the teeth on both it and flywheel.

Can I drop the trans without moving the motor? It doesn't seem like there is much clearance to move the trans back far enough to get to the bellhousing and flywheel.... ANYONE? ANYONE?

Yesterday... it wouldn't even start... WWAAAAA GRRRRRIIIIINDDDD WWAAAAA GRIND....
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 08:37 AM
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From: eville in
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Originally Posted by mandm1200
I not totaly sure of your flywheel, but some have a removeable ring gear that can be replaced.

Here are some instructions on how to install and shim a starter.
http://www.jegs.com/instructions/555...1-04-20-40.pdf
good link
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 08:40 AM
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The flywheel ring gear is very visible and accessable with the cover plate off. With the car on a hoist, the cover plate off could you light dress the teeth that a damaged. They could be heavily burred for inproper mess. A dremel tool might help smooth out the teeth if they are not totally missing.
Starter mess with me has been an issue from the beginning.
The proper way for a starter to work is for the gear to move forward into mess BEFORE it starts to rotate.
A starter moves forward, I am only guessing on this but about 1/8th inch and then it starts to spin. If the drive gear is back from the ring gear more then this the starter starts to spin before engaging plus the starter gear should pass almost through the ring gear or at least 75%.
This doesn't happen.
I bought a mini starter and then redid the aluminum block on the starter to move it closer to the ring gear and when you pull the starter gear out it almost passes all the way through the ring gear.
Now might be a good time to make the crossmember removable.
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 08:41 AM
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I've been through this with gm a thousand times, if it was working your OK, it's harder than you think to destroy a flywheel. take the bracket that bolts onto the block off, if you have one, if not get one, and bend it on more of a curve, this will keep the starter from "cocking". replace the bracket and you'll be fine.
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 08:43 AM
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Yes you can remove the Muncie with the motor in place. It is no picnic but I have done it many times. You have to remove all the shifter and linkage. Pull the trans back and you have to rotate it slightly. It is a tight squeeze but it can be done.
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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From: roanoke va
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Originally Posted by Mr.Gearhead
lesson learned. I should have replaced the damn flywheel when I had everything apart.
The bad part about it is you only needed to repl. the starter ring not the entire flywheel. Keep this in mind when you get it apart and only buy the ring. Unless the flywheel is damaged I would not replace it.
To repl. the ring you need to heat the ring with a torch and remove it and heat the new one and it will fall in place just make sure it is seated on the flywheel before it cools.
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 12:36 PM
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From: GA
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Well.. now that is was mentioned...

If I find a few teeth (dead spot) that need attention... I thought maybe I could fix this area with a replacement ring section. I am thinking this is not that easy or everyone would do it. I suppose if I were to mig a small section on the flywheel... the weld material would make the flywheel off balance... right?

Also, I do not have the front bracket. I thought most guys took this off? I did not shim the hi-torque starter right and that was my fault! Keep in mind, the car still hasn't been on the road... it still being finished. SO.... it was only started a handful of times with the improper shim. However, the hi-torq starter gear was shaved down considerably. The NEW delco worked fine through about 10 starts or so... Maybe that bracket is necessary???
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 02:42 PM
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you need the bracket or the starter will **** after a few starts.
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 04:17 PM
  #12  
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do you think if I put the bracket on my issue will be resolved?
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 07:58 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by pauvil
you need the bracket or the starter will **** after a few starts.

SURVEY SAYS... DING DING DING...

Am I the luckiest bastard or what? Disconnected wires and POS+. Started to loosen the bolt closest the engine and the whole starter cocked back. I was like ... HOLY SCHIT.. the guys were right... HAHHAA. I took the starter out completely and the teeth looked good... very mild wear. The flywheel teeth looked okay. The spot where the start hit twice (real quick blips to try to start before) but nothing major. Wahoooo... You guys are smart!!!

Now... I need the bracket and I still don't understand how the hell I can see the teeth mesh when I put it up in the bellhousing???? Although when I first put it in... it started like a ... well like a CORVETTE
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