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I did mine but I have a press. I am sure that you can get the bushings out without a press. When you finally get the bushing out you will need to remove the metal sleeves so that your Poly bushings fit.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Do this job yourself. This is not a bad job. Should only take about 30 minutes at the most. Back your car up no some ramps and go for it. If your rear diff is clunking when going into drive or reverse, I would think this is the cause for it. Not a bad job at all.
Do this job yourself. This is not a bad job. Should only take about 30 minutes at the most. Back your car up no some ramps and go for it. If your rear diff is clunking when going into drive or reverse, I would think this is the cause for it. Not a bad job at all.
The worst part might be getting the old one off if the bolts are stuck...
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
No. You should be okay just sliding under the car. You may have to pry down on the front of the diff to get the the bushing out first then to put the new one in.
A few years ago I had mine replace. Also told (by Woodstock) that it was easy. But had a shop do it. But, they said it was far from easy. And, had to disconnect the drive shaft to get enought clearance to get old bushing out.
But, they might not have been familiar with the process.
My rear differential has the cast in bracket. Looks like I may have to drop the driveshaft. I found another thread that talks about the difference between the 80-82 differential and earlier years.
driveshaft needs to come out, or at least the u joint seperated from the pinion yoke, then move the driveshaft out of the way (or just pull it out), then the bushing is easy to replace. Are you also replacing the batwing bushings? Those are a PITA, I used a holesaw to remove the rubber, then when all the rubber was out I used a die grinder to grind a "line" inside the bushiung to create a weak spot, then just tapping the side in with a chisel and they come out. Replaced w/ poly bushings. They are 2 part, however the bore on the batwing is only chamfered on one side since GM presses the 1 piece rubber/sleeved bushing in from that side, with the 2 part poly bushings you need to bevel the other side of the batwing to make install easier. Just grease the suckers up and they pop right in.
driveshaft needs to come out, or at least the u joint seperated from the pinion yoke, then move the driveshaft out of the way (or just pull it out), then the bushing is easy to replace. Are you also replacing the batwing bushings? Those are a PITA, I used a holesaw to remove the rubber, then when all the rubber was out I used a die grinder to grind a "line" inside the bushiung to create a weak spot, then just tapping the side in with a chisel and they come out. Replaced w/ poly bushings. They are 2 part, however the bore on the batwing is only chamfered on one side since GM presses the 1 piece rubber/sleeved bushing in from that side, with the 2 part poly bushings you need to bevel the other side of the batwing to make install easier. Just grease the suckers up and they pop right in.
I'm just replacing the differential bushing and nothing else.
You really can not get a wrench on the pinion bolt under the yoke with the driveshaft in place, the pinion mount shields it off from the diff side and from the other side where the parking brake spring sits you can't get a wrench on either, if you can..plese tell me how because that would make things a lot easier (then again I can access mine from the top now...but still the driveshaft needs to be removed)
I just replaced the bushing on my 65 this week end. I did not remove the drive shaft. I did have to pry the diff down a little to remove the old bushing and to angle the bolt out. Took about 30 minutes.