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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 05:17 PM
  #1  
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From: Oshawa
Default dash removal

I'm removing the left side (driver side) of my dash assembly for a 1971 coupe, any ideas, tricks or knicks that will help me would be appreachiated.

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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 05:32 PM
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It's a pain! Sorry, don't mean to discourage you. There's a lot of work to get that one out.

The dash pad (the one on top) needs to come out. After all the screws are out, you need to slightly flex it...like a taco to get it past the windshield pillars. Don't forget the speaker wires.

I've found that it's much easier to get the left side out if you first remove the two bolts that hold the steering column to the mount. This lets the column drop a few inches (those inches are valuable).

The speedo and tach cables need to be disconnected from behind (you need to reach around to get to them...not easy either).

The override vacuum connections and ducting from below need to come out.

When you start pulling the dash towards you, you'll need to disconnect all the light bulbs from the back of the panel. Don't forget to disconnect the wiper solenoid wires (behind the dash, next to the tach).

I'm sure there's stuff I'm not thinking of, but I'm pretty sure that's most of it. I did this enough times that I ended up making bulk connectors for all the instrument lights. That way, when it goes back together, you only need to make two connections, rather than 15-20 of them...you'll understand when you get to them!

I feel your pain, and soon you will too! Just take your time and try not to get too frustrated.

Good luck...
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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 06:02 PM
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Good post 71SoCal. I've been through the same thing several times on my '73 and you've pretty well summed it up. By the way, great idea about the bulk connectors for light bulbs. Think I will try that . . . next time!
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 09:41 AM
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thank you for the information, it gives me a better idea of what I need to do.
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 08:35 PM
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Also, when doing this job, if there's ANYTHING you may even remotely be thinking of replacing in the future ( lens bezels, all dash lights, gauges, clock, etc. ), DO IT NOW. You won't want to do this job again if you can help it.
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by C3 Stroker
Also, when doing this job, if there's ANYTHING you may even remotely be thinking of replacing in the future ( lens bezels, all dash lights, gauges, clock, etc. ), DO IT NOW. You won't want to do this job again if you can help it.
Good point C3 Stroker, I agree with that thought....thanks
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 07:59 AM
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Good thread, and timely since I am about to replace my rev counter (the long end of the needle fell off!!) Sounds like a real PTA job though! Oh Joy!!
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 71SoCal
It's a pain! Sorry, don't mean to discourage you. There's a lot of work to get that one out.

The dash pad (the one on top) needs to come out. After all the screws are out, you need to slightly flex it...like a taco to get it past the windshield pillars. Don't forget the speaker wires.

I've found that it's much easier to get the left side out if you first remove the two bolts that hold the steering column to the mount. This lets the column drop a few inches (those inches are valuable).

Good luck...
These instructions read as if you're removing the top dash pad before removing the speedo/tack panel. It seems to me that you have to have the driver's and passengers panels out before you can remove the dash pad. Are you able to remove the dash pad before removing the driver's passenger's panels?

Also, I've removed the driver's and passenger's panels without removing the top dash pad. I've done this three times; once on a 68, once on a 69 and once on a 70.
........................................ ...........
Some other tips.....You'll need to remove the headlight pull ****. When you've pulled the driver's panel forward a few inches, shine a flashlight at the headlight switch (on the other side of the panel). It'll have a little metal button sticking out. Press the button. The headlight pull **** can be released. Also, the panel plastic is 34 years old and is brittle. Be very gentle. Don't use brut force or you'll crack the panel.
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 02:10 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by 71SoCal
It's a pain! Sorry, don't mean to discourage you. There's a lot of work to get that one out.

The dash pad (the one on top) needs to come out. After all the screws are out, you need to slightly flex it...like a taco to get it past the windshield pillars. Don't forget the speaker wires.

I've found that it's much easier to get the left side out if you first remove the two bolts that hold the steering column to the mount. This lets the column drop a few inches (those inches are valuable).

The speedo and tach cables need to be disconnected from behind (you need to reach around to get to them...not easy either).

The override vacuum connections and ducting from below need to come out.

When you start pulling the dash towards you, you'll need to disconnect all the light bulbs from the back of the panel. Don't forget to disconnect the wiper solenoid wires (behind the dash, next to the tach).

I'm sure there's stuff I'm not thinking of, but I'm pretty sure that's most of it. I did this enough times that I ended up making bulk connectors for all the instrument lights. That way, when it goes back together, you only need to make two connections, rather than 15-20 of them...you'll understand when you get to them!

I feel your pain, and soon you will too! Just take your time and try not to get too frustrated.

Good luck...
that bulk connector is a hel* of an idea , anyone thats put a dash in and out several times can appreciate that idea
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 10:12 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by 68/70Vette
These instructions read as if you're removing the top dash pad before removing the speedo/tack panel. It seems to me that you have to have the driver's and passengers panels out before you can remove the dash pad. Are you able to remove the dash pad before removing the driver's passenger's panels?
Yes, the left side dash pad can be removed without pulling the top pad, but it's more difficult. The upper pad wraps over the lower pads, so you almost have to pry the lower pads out if the upper is still in place.

The upper pad is held in with six screws, (and one vent screw if you have a/c), and it can be removed in minutes...it's very easy and makes the rest of the job much easier.

Also, with the upper pad out, you have clear access to the backside of the lower panel. It's much easier to disconnect the light bulbs, headlight connector, and speedo/tach cables with the upper pad out...I highly recommend pulling it first.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 06:16 PM
  #11  
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Maybe theres some difference between 69's and others, but to remove the top dash panel on mine, the other dash panels had to come out first cause there was an aluminum mount frame that runs across the width under the upper dash panel, and the dash panel was bolted to it.

I did this too many times. Wish I had thought of the bulk connectors.

Be careful pulling the panel as it will scratch the steering column if not done with care.

It's difficult getting it out, and not much easier getting it back in!! Definately if you have the $$, and need to do some other fixes, do it while its out to minimize your frustration.
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Old Dec 4, 2005 | 11:45 AM
  #12  
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From: Oshawa
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Thank you for all the tips, I did the job with no problems, just lots of time
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