I've been stressing over this problem I've been having with starting my engine after its been running for awhile and completely warmed up. Basically it sounds like the battery is low and its hard to crank the engine over. I know what you are about to say, the timing is too far advanced, well its not. I purposely retarded it back to normal driving mode for a couple of days to test that theory and no dice. The engine has around 10:1 comp and likes to run on 94 octane but everything was fine up till this. This problem came about all of a sudden like 2 months ago and I haven't messed with anything untill trying to fix it. These are the things that I have tried.

#1 Replaced cable from battery to starter.
#2 Installed a heat shield around the starter
#3 Replaced the ignition module w/ MSD 6a box
#4 Replaced sparkplugs, wires, coil, cap and rotor
#5 Replaced battery w/ 1000 "cranking amps" ( 800 cold cranking )
#6 Replaced starter and now its a little better

Here is another thing I noticed, while the engine is running I hear a constant ticking sound coming from the pass side. Could this be the holley fuel pump I installed last year making this noise? Also, can the built up pressure in a BAD pump put enough resistance on the cam to affect starting? My theory seems to be that once the pressure bleeds down after like 10-15 minutes the engine doesn't have that load on it anymore. Right now I'm at the point where it's intermittant. I drove 2 miles to the gas station and when I got in front of a pump I shut the engine off, then the attendant asked me to back up to the other pump instead. So I tried to start it and it was hard. But after I got filled up, it started right up no problems. Also I went for a 20 mile drive and got into the thottle a few times pretty good and then made a pit stop at an Exxon tiger mart, came out just a few minutes later and it started right up. WHAT THE HELL !!! It seems very random now. Lets see what all of you think.

 

Only 2 things that I can think of, as an engine heats up everything expands and get a little tighter in the cyl and the bearings. Second a hot started can act different, as it expands causing it Not to be shimmed properly at temp,it's slightly out of aliment when it hot,

My money is on the fact your 10:1 engine was put together with close tolerances, so much so it now need a starter for high compression engines.

My old 454 does the same thing but it never fails to start so I have not really looked for a solution.

Just a thought

 

I highly doubt it is anything to do with your fuel pump. I'm going to bet on heat soak with the starter. I have had problems with many GM cars with this. I got a GM mini starter on mine now and it does not matter hot or cold it starts right up. I have had brand new standard starters get heat soaked. I would not put a standard starter back in mine.

 

Now are you talking about a standard starter, or a standard high torque starter. Both starters were GM high torque. Here is a pic of the one I got in it right now and it was identical to the one I replaced. Also this silver one is much much quieter than the first one. After reading another post about this I will check the clearance of the starter gear with a 5/32 drill bit after I manually engage the gear. Good stuff on this site man !!

 

I go with Gordonm on this one, I've seen the starters heat up and cause problems, fuel pump?? no way.

 

Either one of those is what I call a standard starter. They are both still a lot larger and closer to exhaust components than a mini starter. The GM mini starter is the one used on a lot of GM cars now and the 502/502 BB engine. It is about 1/2 the weight and about 2/3 the size of the older style starter. The yare not that expensive either. Probably about the same as what you have on yours.

 

Check your ground strap from motor to frame,and double check the terminals at the battery posts,make sure the ground is tight on bat.

 

All of the terminals and cables have good connections and I just replaced them in an attempt to resolve this problem. I just added a shim on the oil pan side of the starter and I haven't had a problem with 4 hot starts so far. So I think that was it.

I just bought a stethiscope listening device to try and narrow down where the ticking sound is coming from. So far I think it is the #8 intake rocker. I should have suspected it from the beginning but adjusting it had no affect. For some reason the rocker is cocked over towards the front of the engine.



I have tried to readjust this rocker to get it to sit straight but have had no luck. The previous rockers (roller tips) were fine but I needed the taller valve covers on the stroker b/c they have rollers as well. I switched back to the stock rockers because I had to use the stock valve covers. I hope these pics help.

 

That is definitly not right. Remove the rocker and inspect the tip and pivot ball. Something is wrong on the one.

 

I'm goona grab something to eat first and then go back out. I'll let you know how it turns out. I still have a bunch of spare replacement parts I could use. Thanks.

 

I got the rocker to stay centered now but all I did was take it off and put it back on. I must have done this a couple of times when I originally put it together. For some reason it stays now. Also, I found that the #6 and #8 intake rockers were rubbing on the baffle plate under the breather. So I ripped it out and enlarged the hole to accomodate the new rubber grommet. So far it sounds good but there is still a slight rattle when I goose the throttle. I will find out if it still makes the noise the next time I drive it after it has been sitting overnight. Any other theories will mean major engine teardown, probably heads so I can get them checked out. Other than that, it could be any of the rod bearings or cam bearings.
Using the steathiscope I listened to all of the parts on the engine including the fuel pump, water pump, all 8 header tubes, all around the intake manifold and the sections of the block that are easy to reach and I didnt hear anything abnormal. I will say that most of my driving is consisted of short trips that are over by the time the engine is warmed up, but when its fully warmed up it gets quieter and runs REAL GOOD. I just dont want to have a breakdown when the snow hits here thats why I'm doing it now.

 

Doubtful on cam bearings. Maybe rod bearings. Are you using forged pistons. They tend to rattle a little until the engine is at operating temp. That is strange on the rocker arm. I would keep an eye on it.

 

Yes they are forged pistons, that must be it. Just got back from a spirited drive and I must say that without the knowledgable members here on this site I might still be in the dark on many subjects. Thanks Gordonm

 

Anytime.